FIXED!! Results using multi meter 98 regal no crank/no start

It's probably not more than a foot away from the ignition switch judging by the length of this cable bundle:

 

Ok so if the voltage drops and I need a new switch, is that switch the other end of connector 201 or are we looking at another part. Here's a little back info at this point. My mechanic crossed my starter over for me while I tried to turn the key and it still wouldn't start. That's why he thought security. So with what I just told you, him crossing the starter over the engine cranks like hell but still would not start at all. All while I was wiggling and engaging the key to the full on position back and forth. Does that help you in any way. Yes it was redneck, but he felt if it wasn't an electrical issue, and it started and ran fine, that we could have routed a push button start, overide it straight to the starter and be the same difference. But no, the car cranked perfectly, with the ignition on, me fiddling back and forth, while he engaged the starter. Car cracked perfectly but, it never picked up and ran. Thank you.

I found the piece you pictured for me to test. I used the piercing method. Roughly 6 inches below the " thingy " as you called it, I pireced the 3 wires and here are my results.
In run position
Red wire: 11.8v
In crank position
Yellow wire: 11.80v
In crank position
Pink wire: 4.72
Please respond with what part I specificaly need. And if you could kindly send me the rock auto link to purchase it. Or what category and specific name in rock auto system. I use them exclusively. I can't thank you enough for your easy to follow commands, diagrams etc. I appreciate to the millionth power.

www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/buick,1998,r...+lock+cylinder,10041


           
 

Try this link for the switches.

www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/buick,1998,r...+starter+switch,4700

I'd like to thank you both very much for getting me this far. The question I have at this point is which switch to purchase and if I need to purchase only the switch that is attached to the other end of the connector 2010p0 do I need to buy some other material as well. Last thing I would like to let you know is that I have a  floor shift model. automatic transmission in my car. So if you can get back with me on what part you think I need I would really appreciate it. Thank you and have a great night.

Thanks for the links Matt T

"Scratching head*
I see two part numbers for the ignition switch: one for "with console" and "without Console." By Console, I'm assuming they mean the console-mounted floor shifter maybe? I'm not sure.

 

So the part number I would get is 26068757, so that's the GM GENUINE part from Matt's link: GM GENUINE D1491D {#26068757}.
 

I don't know, you need to pull out that part and compare photos.

wrote:

Thanks for the links Matt T

"Scratching head*
I see two part numbers for the ignition switch: one for "with console" and "without Console." By Console, I'm assuming they mean the console-mounted floor shifter maybe? I'm not sure.

 

So the part number I would get is 26068757, so that's the GM GENUINE part from Matt's link: GM GENUINE D1491D {#26068757}.
 

You're welcome on the link. Rock Auto sometimes hides stuff........

I think you're right about console being floor shift. D06 looks like an RPO code so maybe take a look at the RPO label just to confirm it's the correct one.

Ok. My car has the arm rest console and a console in front of the shifter. Both of them hold a lot of items. The arm console lift up has a change holder and storage. There other console in front of the shifter holds the cigarette lighter and has tons of storage room as well. So, now how close can you get me to the exact one I need at the lowest price if possible. Thanks

It appears as if you went back and found the economy part in rock auto for me. Thank you. And thanks to Matt and anyonr else that commented here. I did not mean to offend or confuse anyone. I'm just a 43 year old man that has never had time to ever  try tackling real electrical issues on a vehicle before. So, thank you, thank you, thank you to everyone of you. I'm going to chance the 30$ rock auto with console as you linked above. I paid $900 for this car 5 years ago and have put 100k on it. I just grew to love it so much I couldn't and won't go down without a fight on it. I hope for the best but am prepared for the worst. That only means I'm not getting my hopes too high. Until it is running again. Me fixing anything to do with a car is Greek. Now if you need a good ER trauma nurse with 20 years experience, I can fix you up. That's The only trade I can think of. 

So do I need to purchase the ignition lock housing along with parts labeled 16 and 19 all in the red squares on the right hand schematic? Or merely the cable and the switch it is attached to that I tested the red , pink, and yellow wires. Please don't be frustrated with me at this point. I'm just bouncing around from reply to reply and it's confusing me. I'm very sorry to inconvenience all of you.

wrote:

So do I need to purchase the ignition lock housing along with parts labeled 16 and 19 all in the red squares on the right hand schematic? Or merely the cable and the switch it is attached to that I tested the red , pink, and yellow wires. 

Just the cable and the switch it's attached to Part number 26068757

I'm very sorry to inconvenience all of you.

You did no such thing, just happy to help

And to be crystal clear here. You did go back to rock auto and change the link the economy $30 equivalent to the oem gm part that matt found? Man, I just can't believe how you all have answered these difficult questions like it's nothing. I owe you all a dilaudid/alprazolom/promethazine IV drip just as a parting gift. Correct me if I stated something  wrong, or confused myself again. Thanks, Danke, etc.

I realize now that the part that I need for my car cannot be bought for $30. I do see the cross reference( matt) from the GM original part number which is 26068757. And I was able to find  the GM equivalent on the Rock Auto site. All of the options that are on my regal match the options that are related to the ignition switch. That being the front console, with tons of storage, containing a cigarette lighter, ashtray as well as another 12 volt outlet on the passenger side of that console, the gear shift which is on the floor as well, and the rear console that can be used to rest your arm on. It also opens and contains a spot to hold change and a lot more items. I'm not 100% sure but I think it has a bulb light in it as well. So with all of those different things needing power as well as the fuse box on the passenger side needing that power to crank the car and also reliably feed those with the correct voltage makes a huge difference in what ignition style was needed. I want to thank you Matt and the other user name jreardon. After I receive and install the part I will drop in and let you know if I hear the wonderful sound of a 3800 series II  pumping and thumping in time.lol

I can't guarantee that this car only needs a new ignition switch

I mean, you could just supply the Pink and Yellow wires with power with a jumper wire and see if it fires up and everything's hunky dory.

"Crosses Fingers*

Does that mean I can just twist them all together and secure with a wire nut, or will one need taken loose to disengage the starter ( in which case I can use jumper wires and make the appropriate switch to stop the flow to that wire. Thanks

IT'S FIXED. THANK YOU ALL!!!