2015 ford transit no crank/no start UPDATE

Thanks Chad, I know the starter works, when I first started working on the cooling fan problem I bought a extra relay of each type and removed the plastic so I could work the relay with my finger. I will go out and check pin 67 and 68 now.

Hello again Chad, no power to 67 or 68 The grounds are good

Went out again to check the fuses. I did not know what condition to check the pins in but I checked them with the connector unplugged with the key in the on position.

Check with all connectors connected.

If you, still, have no power on Pins 67 & 68, then our next stop is the PCM Relay.

Fuse 35 is good and the connectors are clean, I don't have the aux battery system, will I still have the aux battery junction box? Next I will check for power at pin 5 of the PCM relay and get back to you.
Thanks
Bill

Do you get power on Fuse 35, with the key on?

will I still have the aux battery junction box?

I believe, you will.

Ok, checking this morning, with the PCM connector connected and the key on I have power on the two yellow with green leads, I have power on pin one at the relay and the relay seems to be working, when I turn the key on the throttle body makes noise. if I remove the relay with the key on it clicks off, when I replace it, it comes back on.
I think I should have power on the yellow/green leads at this time with the key on and I do.

surplus238 wrote: I have power on the two yellow with green leads

Where is this? Are you referring to Pins 67 & 68?

I am probing the two yellow/green leads at the PCM connector with the key on. They should be pin 67 and pin68

Okay. The diagram says they should be Yellow/gray.

So, you have power on Pins 67, and 68. That's good. Make sure your Grounds on Pins 50, 69, and 70 are good. Do this by swithing your volt meter to milli-volts. Connect your volt meter BLACK lead to Battery (-). With the RED lead, measure the voltage on the GROUNDS at Pins 50, 69, and 70 ...WHILE THE KEY IS ON AND YOU HAVE POWER ON PINS 67 and 68. It is important that the PCM is receiving POWER when you do this. You want to see no more than 100mV, or so. The closer to zero, the better. Anything over 200mV is a concern.

If all that checks out, and you are getting POWER on Pin 16, when the Key is in the START position, but no Power comes out of the PCM on Pin 37, it's not looking good for the PCM.

Can you start the engine by turning the ignition to the RUN position and cranking the starter by applying POWER to the Gray/Orange wire on the starter Solenoid?

The engine will crank but will not start, by putting my finger on the relays I feel the #2 relay for the ign click and the throttle body hums but no start, I am having trouble blaming the PCM because the symptoms are the same as with the old pcm and it is a new pcm programed to my vin by ford and it acts the same as the old one.
I will check out what you have listed and get back to you.

Bk/gn 69 mv, Bk/yel .9 mv, Power on pin 16, no power on pin 37 key in start position. Are there any controls that could be getting to us? EG neutral safety, ect.
Keep in mind that the problem started intermitently and progressed to a no start condition.

Back again, I have looked at the diagram and it looks to me like I am looking at it backwards, should the power be coming in to pin 3 on the PCM relay and going out to the #29 fuse? If that is the case I have no power on the relay pin 3. That would be a problem in the aux junction box?

The highlighted circuit is the Park/Neutral circuit. I'm not sure what voltage should be on this circuit. I would, simply, look for a "Change" from High to Low, or Low to High, while shifting from PRNDL Make sure the "change" is the same at all 3 point.





Do you see any signs of PATS? (Passive Anti-Theft System)

No flashing light on the dash, my key programming device does not show anything and all the lights come on when the key is turned on and dim when pressed to start.

Monde wrote: My question is: shouldn't we check for power on pin 7 and ground on pin 37?

You are correct. That is what we did in the second post of this thread.

Chad wrote: Do you have power on Fuse 29 when attempting to crank? If so, the PCM is sending power to the Starter Relay. If not, do you have power at Pin 37 of the PCM? If you have power at Pin 37 and Fuse 29, then that is good. The relay is getting control POWER (barring any problems with the relay socket). The Yellow wire should receive a control GROUND from the PCM on Pin 25. If you have power on Pin 25, while cranking, then the PCM is not providing a control GROUND.

By checking for power on Fuse 29, we are checking Pin 37, as Fuse 29 is powered by Pin 37.

Do to this diagram covering multiple engines, with a few differences, I mis-quoted the Yellow wire as being on Pin 25, instead of Pin 7.

Monde wrote: My question is: shouldn't we check for power on pin 7 and ground on pin 37? Usually, in a relay, you always have both powers at the top and grounds at the bottom.

Re-reading your question, I see that you asking if Pin 7 is POWER, and Pin 37 is GROUND. Pin 37 CANNOT be a GROUND. If Pin 37 was Grounded, Fuse 29 would blow.



I'm not saying it isn't done but, I have never seen a fuse on the ground side of a circuit.

HI Guy's I want to thank you for all the help. I have found some damage in the wire's from the transmission, I have to get the rig in the air and check that out but I probably won't get back on until tomorrow.

Chad wrote:

Monde wrote: My question is: shouldn't we check for power on pin 7 and ground on pin 37? Usually, in a relay, you always have both powers at the top and grounds at the bottom.

Re-reading your question, I see that you asking if Pin 7 is POWER, and Pin 37 is GROUND. Pin 37 CANNOT be a GROUND. If Pin 37 was Grounded, Fuse 29 would blow.

That fuses function certainly isn't obvious. Might be there to configure the vehicle for engine and/or audio front control options rather than provide overcurrent protection??? Wouldn't be the first time an OEM used a fuse to turn something on or off....

Either way that same diagram shows start signals landing on the BCM and the audio front control module. Time to step away from the DMM and start checking PIDs IMO.

Hi guys, I notice that the audio mod is somehow involved in the starting system, has anyone had a problem with that?
One other symptom I had not thought about. when I turn the key on the radio comes on, I turn the radio off but the next time I turn the key on the radio comes on again