2015 ford transit no crank/no start UPDATE

I have a 2015 T 350/3.7 this is a base unit and does not have the PATS key system, transit van I bought at auction, I drove the van home (about 350 mi). At about 150 mi. the AC quit working. when I arrived I turned the van off and went back out the next morning to figure out the AC problem, running the van to diagnose the ac, it over heated and blew a hose, now I know that the cooling fan is not working. I replace all the hoses and went to work on the cooling fan problem, checking at the relay I find that the fan works when the relay is bypassed so I begin to suspect the PCM, but the van starts fine and upon replacing the AC clutch relay the AC works but on high ac with AC on the fan don't run. I go back to the relay and jump it the fan works fine, replacing the relay don't change anything. PCM?. The next morning the van will not crank, after several try's it starts, then the next thing is the starter will crank but the engine will not fire, the next day it will not crank from the key but will crank and start from a relay jump, a new relay does not change anything. the next day it will not crank from the key but will by jumping the relay, but it would not start. I check the Ign. relays with the click check, (finger on top and turn key) I feel click at both relays. the Ford repair manual tells me to replace the PCM. I ordered a new one and have replaced it. The symptoms are still there. It will not crank. Can the BCM be at fault even tho it does not have PASTS?

Do you have power on Fuse 29 when attempting to crank? If so, the PCM is sending power to the Starter Relay. If not, do you have power at Pin 37 of the PCM? If you have power at Pin 37 and Fuse 29, then that is good. The relay is getting control POWER (barring any problems with the relay socket). The Yellow wire should receive a control GROUND from the PCM on Pin 25. If you have power on Pin 25, while cranking, then the PCM is not providing a control GROUND.

Do you get power on Pin 47, with the key in the START position.

To add on to what chad said fuse 1 under drivers seat and fuse 19 at left side of engine compartment will also need checked. Since fuse 1 feeds fuse 19 which in turn feeds the starter relay as well. I cant tell from the diagram but looks like it goes to ground from there which i presume is the starter solinoid.

I have checked all fuses and have power on both sides, have checked for corrosion. I have ran the diagnoses tests in the repair manual. pim # 7 and pin # 37 show no voltage, pin #42 shows 12 volts. I will check the #47 pin tomorrow

Ok, I have no power to pin 29, I was not told if I should check with the PCM connected or disconnected so I tried both with the key on in start position and have no power to fuse 29.
Does not have power to pin 47
Does not have power to pin 25

If you have no power on Pin #47, with the key in the START position, then we need to go to the ignition switch, next. If Fuse 2, Fuse 16, and Fuse 3 (all circled in RED) are good, then you should have power on the ignition switch at the RED arrow. When you turn the key to the START position, you should have power at the BLUE arrow.

If you have Power at the RED arrow, but not the BLUE arrow (with the key in the START position), then you have a faulty ignition switch.

I don't know what connector you are checking at, I have been looking at C175B in my wiring diag. book

Pin 47 at pcm connector

There are 3 connectors on the PCM and each one has a pin 47. I have been checking the one closest to the firewall

My apologies. For the 3.7L engine, it is Pin 16, (BLU/WHT wire) on connector C175B. Not Pin 47. Pin 47 is for the 3.5L Turbo and the 3.2L Diesel.

I have power at the red lead to the switch and power at the blue lead from the switch.
The switch is working properly.
I will check pin 16 in the morning, This should be checked with the connector off of the PCM, right?

surplus238 wrote: This should be checked with the connector off of the PCM, right?

For this test, it doesn't really matter. Personally, I would leave the connector connected, and back-probe the Pin.

The connector would be hard to back probe, if it don't matter I will disconnect. I am hoping to not have to open up the wiring harness. By the way, the van had a new long block installed by a ford dealer in Phoenix. The motor had 50 mi. on it when I bought it. I have gone through all the engine ground points hoping they had missed one but if they did I don't see it.

I have power at pin 16, 12.4 volts in start position.

That's good. Now, at the same time, you should have power on Pin 37. But, to check THIS Pin, you need to have the connector connected. The PCM should send power out Pin 37, to the RELAY. The PCM should, also, GROUND Pin 7. This POWER and GROUND should activate the RELAY.

If you don't get power on Pin 37, double check the PCM Powers and Grounds.

I need to drive a connection (pin) into the white wire with the green stripe and test for power in start position?

surplus238 wrote: I need to drive a connection (pin) into the white wire with the green stripe and test for power in start position?

Yes.

Hello again, no power at pin 37 but I am having a problem finding out what pins should show power, the ground look to be easy but check me if I am wrong. The grounds are, pin 50, 69 and 70. Should I go through the connector one pin at a time to see which ones have power with the switch on? While I was in there I checked continuity between my test connector and #29 fuse it is a good connection so the wire is good. If I were to jump that wire would the starter turn?

Yes. The GROUNDS are Pins 50, 69, and 70. Powers are Pins 67 and 68.

While I was in there I checked continuity between my test connector and #29 fuse it is a good connection so the wire is good. If I were to jump that wire would the starter turn?

In addition to jumping POWER to this circuit, you will also need to supply a GROUND on the yellow wire from Pin 7 to activate the RELAY. Alternatively, you you could pull the RELAY and supply a power, only, to the GRY/ORG wire going to the Stater Solenoid, from the relay. This should crank the starter, too.