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Cooling Fans run all the time

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4 years 2 months ago #37544 by Fabian100
2010 nissan sentra has a no Start no Communication noticed that cooling fans run all the time though..
Should I stop fans from running all the time first then see why it won't start .?
there wasn't a problem until my friend changed his fuel pump himself and
Now it won't start and has no communication
Before he changed the fuel pump it ran , now it has 1.3 at the reference wire and 12v at signal wire
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4 years 2 months ago - 4 years 2 months ago #37546 by Chad
Replied by Chad on topic Cooling Fans run all the time
I would start with the No Communication. The cooling fans running, and the starter not cranking ( I am assuming that it is a No-Crank, No-Start? ) could be a symptom of the communication problem.

Disconnect the battery and check the resistance between pins 6 and 14, at the DLC. You want to see 60Ω.

Diagrams are attached, below.

"Knowledge is a weapon. Arm yourself, well, before going to do battle."
"Understanding a question is half an answer."

I have learned more by being wrong, than I have by being right. :-)
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Last edit: 4 years 2 months ago by Chad.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Fabian100

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4 years 2 months ago #37547 by Tyler
Replied by Tyler on topic Cooling Fans run all the time
I agree with Chad. Chase the no comm first. The fans running constantly is a symptom of the IPDM losing communication.

Changing the fuel pump shouldn't have installed any problems by itself. :unsure: Was he doing any other testing prior to the pump replacement? What was the original symptom?

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4 years 2 months ago - 4 years 2 months ago #37554 by Fabian100
Car kept blowing low beam fuse .
Found out today it's a salvage that had front end smashed in and fans were connected where they found power with no regard for where or to where it was going aslong as fans came on there is one Blue with black stripe wire connected to a white with black stripe wire
Another white with black stripe wire connected to a solid white wire both connected to power distribution box.
I looked at wire díagram and it's just don't seem right could that be cuasing the problems also?
Went out this AM and moved wires at ECU now I have 12v at MAF also ..
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Last edit: 4 years 2 months ago by Fabian100. Reason: Just checked car

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4 years 2 months ago - 4 years 2 months ago #37555 by Tutti57
Fans running on high (even with the car off) and no start are the default when the CAN hi network is down. Not sure if the fans are on with the car off too.

Start with chads suggestion at the DLC.

Yikes, I just saw the picture of the wires. This is gonna get good...

In addition to have 60ohms at the DLC with the battery neg cable off, with the battery connected you should see 2.75v on the can high line and 2.25v on the can low. The values have to be very close to these numbers on your voltmeter.

Nissan Technician
Last edit: 4 years 2 months ago by Tutti57.
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4 years 2 months ago #37605 by Fabian100
Okay so today I downloaded a Nissan service manual for the 2010 Sentra as I was going thru the procedures I raised the vehical to check grounds underneath it was then that I realized that the steering doesn't lock and the windows work even with ignition key in the off position I get no voltage at the S terminal of starter solenoid during crank or with key in ON position I had the same problem with an F-150 it turned out to be a bad ignition switch mainly the little plastic ring at the entrance ofm the switch that reads the key everything was pointing at a bad ECU but now I'm not so sure at $238 for a ECU or $230 for an ingition and then to be wrong I would appreciate a second, third or fourth opinion.
( although his ingition will eventually go out due to it already not locking)
Should I test the knock Sensor I still have no communication but with the rats nest of rewiring that was done I dought I will
I do this type of work ( take on Automobile hard cases) for free and I only accept the poor ,the elderly or the poor shmuck that has already been taken to the cleaners by one or more of our local shops as a way to show them that not everyone in then industry is an incomopitant just after your money.
I have an A.S degree in Automotive Technology I worked in the Industry for over15 yesrs and I still keep my ASE's current but the technology keeps changing and I nolonger work in the industry full-time my bread and butter now is diagnosing and repairing out of date CNC machines that still run good only no one wants to work on them anymore because they're hardcases nobody wants.
I get room and board, fly all over the U.S and make good money..
But I couldnt of gotten here without my Automobile roots
Anyone looking for a change of scenery CNC repair pays good..real good ..
And the skills you have from Automobile repair is a perfect fit

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4 years 2 months ago #37606 by Fabian100
Ok will re-check those numbers and get back as of yesteday they were 1.75 on both and 11.5 on the reference with battery connected but I do know now all grounds are good ..

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4 years 2 months ago #37740 by rpd1125
I would Check the pins on the fuel pump connector. He may have bent the connector pins when connecting it. It sounds like a short to battery voltage. hopefully you didn't fry that computer because any voltage on a reference wire to PCM will fry the driver.

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4 years 2 months ago #37899 by Fabian100
Thank You
Im still fighting with this thing, Kind of gave up on getting it started and just started to rewire the wiring harness in the engine compartment because it's a mess and I wanted to rule it out (I don't know how the vechical even ran but it did for a year )until I could get some more feedback and fuel pump was just the feedback I was hoping for (rewiring gives one time to think)and the fuel pump was gonna be what I checked next (when it should of been what I checked first ) I'll check that today and let you guys know...

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