[FIXED] 2001 ACURA CL 3.2 CRANKS/ NO START

guafa wrote:
In fact, you mentioned you started this engine with brake cleaner, which makes me think there is not a mechanical issue.

Exactly. It just about has to be fuel. Either contamination/quality or an input issue resulting in so much it drowns the plugs.

@Noah reasons i am not looking back into fuel and just an fyi i have a r/c bottle with a fuel sample in it from this car at my shop is when we changed the fuel pump like idiots lol we noticed there was very little gas in the car so of course when the car would not start we put 5 gallons of gas that i ran up to circle k a big chain gas station and put it in the car. then someone questioned the gas so for that reason i did take a sample and i look at it everyday it has no separation i sure wish it would but it is not cooperating with me lol

Is this a type S, with a normally open electronic throttle body mounted in front of the mechanical throttle body?
Maybe not relevant but I am curious.

Noah wrote: Is this a type S, with a normally open electronic throttle body mounted in front of the mechanical throttle body?
Maybe not relevant but I am curious.

yes s type sorry maybe i should have said that before now

Guys, do we know anything about injectors?

How about a balance test? but all injectors at the same time?

cheers.

Take a fuel sample from the fuel rail and see if it will burn.

Replying at page 3 to when the injectors should fire.
I've seen them fire during the exhaust stroke on many, many cars. In my opinion, it gives the fuel more time to vaporize. Intake valve is closed during that time, so the fuel sits there for a few extra milliseconds.
Injectors do not have to fire on the intake stroke and certainly shouldn't be firing on the compression stroke on a non gdi system.
I haven't finished reading the posts yet...

Fuel

Just so you guys see what the plugs I took out look like

@ScannerDanner Are these ignition control signals to base of transistor supposed to look like that? I thought they'd be more squarish.

@tim.smith1 On the bottom pic where it's more square, you had the connector off cop correct?



It does look a little funny but I wouldn't be concerned with that as long as the coils are firing and they clearly are. The second picture, is that the same signal with the coil unplugged? That looks more like what we would expect but I definitely have seen the base circuit trigger signal be distorted by the current flow of the coil. So again, I don't think this is your problem. I think someone commented on inputs and timing and I would like to see this too. Maybe a relative compression test synced with the base circuit trigger signal on one of the coils to start with.

Okay so cleaned off plugs again and dried out cylinders as you see in data pid where the blue trace is car started on its own for a second you will see that rpm is at 1280

cant seem to load anything lol

how do i load a movie from a versus to the forum page. the two picks are green off the number four coil control wire and yello with amp probe set at 1mv/10ma and scope was set 50 mv seems that is way to low on amps for injectors. ohhh and it was off of fuse for the main relay that controls injectors.

showing the fuse

tim.smith1 wrote: how do i load a movie from a versus to the forum page

www.mediafire.com
www.zippyshare.com

I've think it's time we have a look at your cam and crank signals. When you have outputs that are not being turned on, like fuel injectors, it's probably due to bad inputs. Just look at the missing ramps !

On second viewing I think those are the two initial igt signals. Maybe the 2.2 amps is all the injectors firing simultaneously. Maybe the missing ramps are normal? Are you missing any more ramps thereafter in a longer time frame?

If not, then that would mean there's a power or ground issue because ~250mA of current is too low for an injector. Or maybe your homemade fuse jumper has too much voltage drop, maybe the amp clamp is low on batteries, maybe you didn't zero out the probe... too many variables lol.

I could go either way on checking out the cam and crank signals or voltage drop testing a fuel injector feed. Seeing that peak amperage ramp at 2.2, yeah, just pick out a single power feed at the nearest injector, crank engine, and do voltage drop test on it.

EDIT: You know what would be easier to check power and ground to injector? Put on your attenuator and capture an injector voltage waveform.

Dunno if this is pertinent:

Jreardon: Completely pertinent. 250mA is to low for me also (unlees tools were not fast enough to graph peaks)

Tim.smith: According to pictures of spark plugs, i was expecting totally wet ones.

I mean, wet without resistors and dry with resistors (if it's the case, we can conclude something).

did you notice any diference with and without resistors?

I can't still conclude wheter is lack or to much fuel

www.mediafire.com/file/99h7erxb6ioaiiu/a..._coil_volts.vss/file

was testing that tell me if it works guys