Help us help you. By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms (no start, high idle, misfire etc.) Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily!
I have read all this thread and had came to my mind two ideas. I always try to return to the basics (fuel flow / air flow / spark flow)
Do we have enough fuel flow? Yes, we do. Actually seems more than normal
Do we have enough air flow? we don't know. Could this be the cause of soaked spark plugs?
Do we have enough spark? Yes, we do
Idea # 1 Try to simulate more temperature than real. I usually take 5kohm potenciometer and reduce ECT voltage. That way pcm injects less fuel than real. IF injector pulse width changes, i would rule out pcm and would look for a bad sensor or mechanical issue.
i don't have a potenciometer i do have 3 resistors i could maybe try not sure the ohms but i will check in the morning. i have data pids of the map sensor and the baro reading they match what other method could i use to read them?
timing has been checked with scope patterns and the covers are off if anyone would like me to take pics of the marks i could also do that in the a.m. also thanks very much guys with trying to help with this car it has been very difficult to figure this one out i am thinking E.C.M. but we know that is hard to truly prove lol
i don't have a potenciometer i do have 3 resistors i could maybe try not sure the ohms but i will check in the morning.
Use the resistor/s in paralell with ECT sensor checking that temperature increases 40 degrees. that way you can see pulse width change. I don´t think without a potenciometer, you can start engine (because you need little changes in resistance/voltage to precissely change pulse width)
i have data pids of the map sensor and the baro reading they match what other method could i use to read them?
While cranking, you should see a significant vacuum (diference between baro and map).
Today I unplugged the ECT just sis everyone knows it dropped to -40 on data stream then I found some resistors and managed to get temp to read 192 on the data stream took the plugs out dried them off and reinstalled them tried to start it and no luck.
A few things I thought of today is as soon as I unplugged the ECT a code for it came up the one thing I have never seen is a code for the coils and I don't think I have seen for injectors I know I have had the key on with the coils unplugged and also I think with injectors unplugged I also don't recall seeing any codes for the map or the tps and I have cranked the engine over with those unplugged. Is this car that slow on codes with a sensor or component unplugged or should that bother me and lean me more towards ecm?
This thing is bananas, lol! I've never seen a j motor put up such a fight! Does this guy cheat on his wife? Sugar in the gas tank?
Windshield washer tank connected to intake vacuum?
I know you checked timing, just want to verify that you eyeballed the mark on the crank too. I'm sure you did, but this thing should start....
Today I unplugged the ECT just sis everyone knows it dropped to -40 on data stream then I found some resistors and managed to get temp to read 192 on the data stream took the plugs out dried them off and reinstalled them tried to start it and no luck.
It makes sense the engine did not start. The point here is after you tried to start engine, were the plugs wet again? i mean, wet like with no resistors?
did you noticed different injector pulse width with and without resistors?
A few things I thought of today is as soon as I unplugged the ECT a code for it came up the one thing I have never seen is a code for the coils and I don't think I have seen for injectors I know I have had the key on with the coils unplugged and also I think with injectors unplugged I also don't recall seeing any codes for the map or the tps and I have cranked the engine over with those unplugged. Is this car that slow on codes with a sensor or component unplugged or should that bother me and lean me more towards ecm?
We don´t know yet if pcm is bad. I think at least is sending injection and ignition pulse, which should start the engine.
The fact that you have spark, air (confirmed by MAP drop), compression (180 psi) and fuel makes me think you have a fuel control issue. Again, were the plugs wet again?
Maybe I'm looking to much into it, but the compression waveform does look staggered. It kind of "marches down". The highest event appears noticably higher than the last
event before the pattern repeats again. :huh:
I don't think It would alert me given different circumstances, just an observation.
I've got access to a TL of the same generation if you need data or waveforms to compare
my next move would be get a potenciometer and precissely change ECT voltage. I know is not the root cause of what you are facing, but this drives me to a fuel control (pcm sensor) issue.
In fact, you mentioned you started this engine with brake cleaner, which makes me think there is not a mechanical issue.
@Noah i took all the plugs out and dried the cylinders out with air hose then i rechecked compression on all the cylinders every cylinder was at 205 punds of compression except number four cylinder it had 195 i did not mention this here because it did not seem that would change my path any. I am guessing the first time the cylinders were fuel soaked.
tim.smith1 wrote: Last thing I find funny is I did get a code p1279 for the vtec system I know that controls timing could that cause a not start?
Not that I'm aware of. Maybe try disconnecting the VTEC solenoids, just for giggles.
I was considering an intake restriction, but that doesn't explain how you can get it going with brake cleaner, OR the 180 PSI compression. Or the MAP readings. Opening the throttle doesn't make any difference?
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