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2017 Ford F350 with ABS module and RR wheel speed sensor codes.

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2 years 1 month ago #55155 by 70monte
A friend of mine has the above vehicle. He has been getting some stabilitrack error messages in the center message center and the ABS light has come on. I put my scanner on it today and these are what pulled up:

U3000:47-08: ABS Control Module
C003A:4A-08: RR Wheel Speed Sensor.
C003A:38-C8: RR Wheel Speed Sensor.
C0051:62-48: Steering Wheel position sensor.
C003A:65-C8: RR Wheel Speed Sensor.
U0415:00-08: Invalid Data received from ABS Control Module A.
C1001:01-EC: Vision system camera.

Does anyone know what the theory of operation is for this system? Could the wheel speed sensor code cause the ABS Module code or would it be the other way around?

I can't find any info as to where the ABS module or rear wheel speed sensors are on this truck. There are no wires going to the rear wheels so I'm assuming the rubber looking wiring that goes into the rear differential next to the axle tubes are going to the rear wheel speed sensors.

I pulled up all four wheel speed sensors on my scanner and going down the road, there is no reported mph on the RR sensor. The other three do display data.

Data pid for ABS module said it was inactive and another one said it was off even while driving and using the brakes.

Thanks for any info.

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2 years 1 month ago #55156 by 70monte
I forgot to mention that the truck only has about 29,000 miles on it and has the 6.0 diesel with automatic transmission. It's mostly used on the farm to haul the stock trailer or to feed the round bales of hay.

I looked all around under the truck when I was looking for the rear wheel speed sensor wiring and didn't see anything damaged or pulled out of place.

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2 years 1 month ago - 2 years 1 month ago #55160 by jreardon
I think you mean the 6.7L diesel as I only see that engine for 2017 model year. The other being a flex fuel 6.2L.

I'm assuming the rubber looking wiring that goes into the rear differential next to the axle tubes are going to the rear wheel speed sensors


Bingo.

If you clear the codes and those same codes come back without moving, then I would think sensor or wiring problem. If you can swap the connectors from RR and RL and the code switches then I think we can safely assume it's a sensor issue.

imgur.com/a/5dWLUWM

As far as I can tell it's a plain active wheel speed sensor, 1 wire power 1 wire a ground.
Connector face is not identical so jumper wires will be needed for that test.
Last edit: 2 years 1 month ago by jreardon. Reason: incorrectly wrote connector face is identical
The following user(s) said Thank You: Tyler

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2 years 1 month ago #55161 by jreardon
I forgot to add you can try ohm testing the sensor and compare to known good rear left one.

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2 years 1 month ago - 2 years 1 month ago #55163 by Tyler
jreardon is right on track with the information he provided. B)

The only thing I'll add is the symptom byte information to the C003A codes you posted:

C003A:38 Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Frequency Incorrect
C003A:4A Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Incorrect Component Installed
C003A:65 Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Signal Has Too Few Transitions/Events

Note that none of these talk about circuit integrity. ;) And these active sensor systems are pretty darn good at catching circuit integrity problems on their own. Has someone been swapping parts before you got involved?

U0415 is a function of the WSS code. Ignore it for now. Clear codes and recheck for U3000 and C0051. If neither reset, pursue the C003A's. Chase C1001 if the rear camera doesn't work consistently (and your friend wants it to).
Last edit: 2 years 1 month ago by Tyler. Reason: brackets are stupid
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2 years 1 month ago #55165 by jreardon
Thanks. No doubt you already know identifix sucks for code definitions lol.

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2 years 1 month ago #55166 by Tyler

Thanks. No doubt you already know identifix sucks for code definitions lol.


I noticed that. :angry: I looked up a '16 F350 but none of the symptom bytes the OP provided matched up...

Gave ProDemand a shot, and it had them! Surprised the hell out of me. Usually IDFix is on top of it. :unsure:

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2 years 1 month ago #55168 by 70monte
Thanks for the info guys. You are correct, it's a 6.7L and not the 6.0L. There are a couple of 6.0's in the family and I just had that number on the brain.

Thanks for those diagrams, they are very helpful. I can do the tests you mentioned but it will probably be next week since I have to go out of town on Tuesday-Friday.

No one has messed with anything before I looked at it today and nothing looks disturbed anywhere.

I forgot that this truck started out as a cab and chassis and he had a hay bed installed on it when it was new so it never had a rear camera so the camera code is there to stay.

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2 years 1 month ago #55170 by 70monte
I forgot to ask again, do you know where the ABS control module is on this truck?

I also don't know why the one sensor code is referring to the incorrect component installed since no one has replaced it and he has not had any problems with this system up until now. Both sensor wires and where the sensors bolt in is very dirty and nothing looks disturbed.

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2 years 1 month ago - 2 years 1 month ago #55171 by jreardon
I don't know why it would say wrong component installed.

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Last edit: 2 years 1 month ago by jreardon.

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2 years 1 month ago #55172 by 70monte
Well, I went and looked at the truck really quick to see if I could get an OHM reading at the two connectors but I could not get the red locking tabs out of either one of them. They both faced the frame rail and I couldn't tell if the tabs pulled out or pushed in but I could not budge them either way. It got dark so I quit for the day. I may have some time tomorrow to look at it and try to figure out how they come out and the connector apart. Thanks for the ABS module info.

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2 years 1 month ago #55184 by 70monte
So I got to look at the truck again today. I first did the ohm test and both sensors read about 589 ohms.

I then disconnected both connectors and used jumper wires and swapped the sensors and connectors positions and then took it for a test drive. All four sensors read mph. I had cleared the codes but the ABS and advance track lights came back on immediately.

I came back from the test drive an only had one code and it was for the RR sensor still but for inaccurate frequency. I put all of the wiring back where it was supposed to go and cleared the DTC's again and took another drive.

In graphing mode it seemed like the RR wheel dropped out a few times but the ABS light never came back on. On the way back the signal was constant the entire time.

So right now there are no warning lights on and the RR wheel sensor seems to be working but I'm sure there is still an issue since the only thing I did was disconnect the connectors and sprayed them with deoxit. My friend is going to drive it and see what happens.
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2 years 1 month ago #55467 by 70monte
So I talked to my friend again and the ABS and Traction control lights are back on. They came on the day after I looked at it. He is going to bring it back to me in about a week or so so I can hook the scanner back up and see if we have the same codes which I'm sure we will.

Does anyone know what readings I should get on both of the wires going to the RR wheel sensor? I'm going to try and back probe the connector this time if the scanner shows no speed sensor readings at the RR sensor because it seems that when I unplugged the connectors, the reading came back.

I did check voltages last time when I had the connector disconnected and had battery voltage on one of the wires but I don't remember what it was on the other one. I may end up checking power and grounds to the ABS module but I don't have a wiring diagram for this truck to see what those wires are.

Any other ideas on how to proceed? Thanks.

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2 years 1 month ago #55504 by jreardon
Diagrams attached at bottom of this post.

I had cleared the codes but the ABS and advance track lights came back on immediately.


abs module must not like something about that circuit, try ohming it at the abs module.
Attachments:
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2 years 1 month ago #55533 by 70monte
Thanks. When he brings the truck back, I will do as you suggest and inspect the wiring from the ABS module back to the connectors.

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1 year 11 months ago #56242 by 70monte
I'm going to be looking at this truck again tomorrow. Can anyone tell me what readings I should be seeing on the two wires going to the RR speed sensor from the ABS module? If I remember correctly, I had battery voltage on one of them but don't remember what was on the other.

Is this going to be a power and signal wire two wire setup? Thanks.

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1 year 11 months ago #56251 by 70monte
I looked at this truck again today. Scan data showed Three faults this time.

U3000:47-08: Control Module
C0051:62-48: Steering Wheel Position Sensor.
C003A:65-C8: RR Wheel Speed Sensor.

I took it for a drive with the Wheel Speed Sensor Data PIDS displayed for all four wheels. RR sensor showed nothing while the other three showed MPH's.

I disconnected both the LR and RR wheel speed sensor connectors and measured voltage at both pins in each connector. I got the same voltage readings going to both connectors, so I concluded that the ABS Module was sending the correct voltage to the RR sensor since the LR sensor is working correctly. My friend ordered a new RR sensor, and I will install it once it comes in and we will see if this corrects the problem.

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1 year 11 months ago - 1 year 11 months ago #56293 by 70monte
I replaced the RR wheel speed sensor on this truck today and it seems to have fixed the problem.

After I replaced the sensor and cleared the codes, I had an immediate code come back for the RR sensor. I tried clearing it again and cycling the key and it still would come back. The ABS and traction control lights were also on in the cluster as well as a service the advance trac system.

We took the truck for a drive and I graphed the four wheel speed sensors. They all read normal and almost immediately the ABS and Traction control lights went out and stayed out for the approximately 7 miles of driving. So did the warning message.

The owner had told me that the last time I had cleared the codes before the sensor replacement, the warning lights came back on within 5 miles of driving so I'm confident the sensor replacement has fixed the problem.

The old sensor had a lot of grey sludge on the end of it, just like you would find on a magnet inside of a transmission or rear end. I guess I should have pulled the sensor out and examined it before we put a new one in and tried cleaning that stuff off but the sensor gasket was kind of messed up so I don't know if it would seal back up when putting it back in.

I want to thank everyone who responded and provided info and diagrams. Thanks again.
Last edit: 1 year 11 months ago by 70monte.

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