No crank

I can have a look on Carweb for a wiring diagram for you if you post or PM your reg & VIN
Also you can register on the peugeot website as an independent operator for info.
Once registers you can buy all the info you need public.servicebox.peugeot.com/pages/index.jsp
Added a generic 207 DV4 starter diagram for you.
PSF1 - Engine fusebox
BSI1 - BSI
1010 - Starter
1020 - Alternator
0004 - Instruments
HTH
Doc...

Doc wrote: I can have a look on Carweb for a wiring diagram for you if you post or PM your reg & VIN
Also you can register on the peugeot website as an independent operator for info.
Once registers you can buy all the info you need public.servicebox.peugeot.com/pages/index.jsp
Added a generic 207 DV4 starter diagram for you.
PSF1 - Engine fusebox
BSI1 - BSI
1010 - Starter
1020 - Alternator
0004 - Instruments
HTH
Doc...

Thank you for finding this for me! I am still wondering of I have a problem within my fuse box as when I take out fuse 8 the pin that connects the wire which runs down to the starter still gets 11v, also fuse 13 is getting a constant 12v when the ignition is switched on when it is only meant to be getting this voltage when the key is then turned to the start position, could anything else be causing this before I go any buy a new fuse box? Also with fuse 13 and fuse 8 the pin is still getting about 11v but at the end of the wire at the solenoid the reading is 0 when attached?

I wouldn't worry about F13 at the moment.
Is the voltage at pin 2 enough to light a test lamp connected to GND with F8 removed?
When key is turned to start measure the voltage at Pin 2 back-probed (F8 fitted)
As a double check, if you have an inductive Amp clamp then test for current flow on 100 - Pin 2 on cranking.
207 have issues with the loom running from engine fuse box, it is well worth giving the wires a good tug and visual inspection as you may have a short to power back feeding up the loom.
Hope this helps (HTH)
Doc...

PS, double check your engine GND and body GND - there should be two separate body GND points just behind the L/H headlamp, they are normally covered in grey sealer but water gets underneath the sealer and corrodes the grounds.

I like where Doc is going with this. Having 11V on pin 2 with fuse #8 out is screaming 'resistive short' to me. The voltage going to zero with the solenoid wire connected reinforces this. Looking at the pin numbers for the connector at PSF1, I see pins 4 and 5 getting fused battery power at all times. Wondering about corrosion between those pins and pin 2.

Mark, didn't you say you had this same symptom with both this fuse box and the old fuse box? If that's the case, then I'd say you don't need a fuse box at the moment. We may get there later, but I'd like to hear the results of Doc's suggested testing first.

Unfortunately I have lost my test light and can't seem to find it anywhere, I do have a multi meter and the pin shows a constant 11.6v when the key is turned to the on run position and then stays like that with the key off until the car goes to sleep that's when it drops back down to 0v. I reconnected the wire and back probed it and turned the key to the start position and again it was 0v. There are 2 different parts to the fuse box, underneath the fuse box there is a separate part which has a few larger fuses which are mf4 and mf5 and a few others, but there aren't wires that join then together, I have tried to put a picture on but the file is too big, I could email it if needed and could help. Is there anything else I could try?

Would my best bet be to get a diagnostic machine onto the car?

I don't think a scanner is going to help you here Mark unless there are circuit faults stored for engine bay components that run through the same loom.
remove the connector in the fusebox and look carefully for any signs of corrosion or water ingress in the connectors.
Then reconnect the connector.
Put your voltmeter on battery ground and measure voltage on pin 2 (backprobed) with someone holding the key in the start position.
As they are doing this run your hand down the loom and stress the loom, paying attention to anywhere the loom contacts metal, or as Paul says is exposed to heat or vibration.
I am sure you are going to find a wiring fault in that loom.
Hope this helps.

Hi Mark,
just stumbled across this, I have seen a few pugs with non start after being parked up. The voltage drop looks to be a contender, however I see many which just forget the key code to release the ecu and bsi. Do you get the chime when key is in the ignition and drivers door open?
If I have missed this I apologise for asking.

Just read that you have the chime.
the bsi which is probably comms2000 can be flakey to say the least. Personally I would connect a scan tool preferably lexia so I could look at the in put and output signals being generated.

Doc wrote: I don't think a scanner is going to help you here Mark unless there are circuit faults stored for engine bay components that run through the same loom.
remove the connector in the fusebox and look carefully for any signs of corrosion or water ingress in the connectors.
Then reconnect the connector.
Put your voltmeter on battery ground and measure voltage on pin 2 (backprobed) with someone holding the key in the start position.
As they are doing this run your hand down the loom and stress the loom, paying attention to anywhere the loom contacts metal, or as Paul says is exposed to heat or vibration.
I am sure you are going to find a wiring fault in that loom.
Hope this helps.

So I have done what you suggested here and nothing changed so I removed the battery and pulled on the loom a bit and moved it around a bit, I couldn't see any wires that were damaged at all or burnt out, so after a while I gave up looking and put the battery back and hooked it up again and soon as it was connected back up there was just a slow clicking noise coming from the fusebox, opened the passengers door where the other fusebox was and there was a relay clicking in there aswell. Dash had no power at all when key was turned and this clicking just carried on. When I touched the positive terminal on the batter it was getting pretty warm. Another thing I done before all this was got my multi meter and put the negative pin in the battery negative and the other one on a solid metal bit on the engine, I assumed the reading I should have got when the key was turned was 0v but I was getting 0.57v+ does this mean a bad ground? Sorry for all the writing

"When I touched the positive terminal on the battery it was getting pretty warm."

Also 0.57v is too much betweem the engine block and battery negative is too much, you have a bad engine ground.
All the main connections to the battery need removed and cleaned and the main earth cable needs checked and the connections cleaned at the engine block, body and battery .

Andy.MacFadyen wrote: "When I touched the positive terminal on the battery it was getting pretty warm."

Also 0.57v is too much betweem the engine block and battery negative is too much, you have a bad engine ground.
All the main connections to the battery need removed and cleaned and the main earth cable needs checked and the connections cleaned at the engine block, body and battery .

OK thank you! I shall do this as soon as I get home, will I just get a bit of sand paper and sand it till it is shinny metal again?

So I have cleaned all the ground connections I could find, also cleaned all the connections to the battery and the clicking went back to how it was before. A rapid clicking from a relay in the fuse box when key is turned to the run position as I have said before if I remove the fuse for the "engine control unit and fan assembly control relay supply, water in diesel sensor, EGR solenoid valves, air heating" the relay stops clicking but still no crank when key is turned. Could this be an ecu problem maybe not sending a ground signal to the fusebox or something along those lines?

What is the voltage measured at the battery when you try to operate the starter ?

Andy.MacFadyen wrote: What is the voltage measured at the battery when you try to operate the starter ?

The voltage stays the same when key is turned to start. About 12.8v

Could this possible be an ecu problem? Not sending a good ground to the main relay? Because when I take one off the connector off the ecu the relay stops clicking?

Mark, where are you in the UK?
maybe you're near to one of us
Cheers

I live in Scotland, ayrshire

Too far for me to travel, is the wiring diagram I posted earlier correct for your vehicle?
I have access to Servicebox, Autodata, Carweb etc if it's not. (PM me your reg and VIN and I can get specific for your car)
Really wish I could walk you through this in person.
Cheers.

I have bought a diagram from haynes and the diagram I have for the car is pretty similar to the one you managed to find. I shall pm you my reg number and VIN and get your email address so I can send you the diagram I have.
That would have been great if you could as I have been trying to get my car fixed for over a month now, and had a few people out to have a look and they aren't sure what it is

Mark, looking at the attached wiring diagram specific to your car I would do the following hard reset:

open your drivers window, remove your key and let the car go to sleep - do not press any key remotes (5 mins)
disconnect the battery and leave disconnected with the +ve and -ve leads joined together for 5 mins.
reconnect battery
lean through window (do not open door) and turn on sidelights
place key in ignition and turn to run position.
turn off key and sidelights

Hard reset complete

try and start car - if NG then do the following:-

Pull out F8 (15A or 20A) which should be bottom right on your engine bay fuse box - check for obvious signs of water damage or shiny spots on the fuse legs. If good then refit fuse and check for voltage - it should be HOT ALL TIMES T30

measure Battery voltage when cranking - meter connected across battery - should not drop below 10v

measure from engine block to battery -ve post when cranking - should not be more than 0.5v lower is better

back probe pin 2 on the 5 pin green connector on your engine fuse box (strip the insulation tape off the loom until you find the wire number printed on the wire, it should be wire 100)- there should be <0.1v on this wire KOEO with your meter -ve on battery -ve

crank the engine and note the voltage on pin 2 - it should be battery voltage when cranking

As a plausibility check you can disconnect the connector and give the wire (100) 12v from a fused jumper wire - the starter should crank every time - if it does not then we have other issues besides what is happening at the fuse box.

This thread is getting too long to remember all the checks you have done. By pulling other fuses you may be introducing other faults and variables.

Hope this helps