91 s10 4.3 no power to fuel pump
Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
It sounds like you have a voltage drop on the DK GRN-WHT wire. With the relay removed, you have 11.7 volts on the DK GRN-WHT wire. Will it light an incandescent test light?
This video explains voltage drops using a starter as an example.
"Knowledge is a weapon. Arm yourself, well, before going to do battle."
"Understanding a question is half an answer."
I have learned more by being wrong, than I have by being right.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
Hi, my light didn't light, multimeter still showing 11.7 volts. didn't see a video attached to your reply. Thankspole71 wrote:
It sounds like you have a voltage drop on the DK GRN-WHT wire. With the relay removed, you have 11.7 volts on the DK GRN-WHT wire. Will it light an incandescent test light?
This video explains voltage drops using a starter as an example.
Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
A bad wire can show a voltage when there is nothing USING that voltage, but drop significantly when a load is added to the circuit. If you try to light the test light AND read the voltage at the same time, you will see the voltage drop. Connect your meter and watch the 11.7 volts. Now, add the test light while watching the voltage. Did the voltage drop? Now, move the the other end of the DK-GRN wire (at the ECM) with the volt meter. Try to light the test light at the relay socket. Did the voltage drop at the ECM?
"Knowledge is a weapon. Arm yourself, well, before going to do battle."
"Understanding a question is half an answer."
I have learned more by being wrong, than I have by being right.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
I put test light on at socket and volts did drop, put meter at ecm g/w wire and volts also dropped.pole71 wrote: A youtube search of " Multimeter basics, voltage and resistance tests (a free SD Premium video) " should find the video I was referring to. A search of "voltage drop testing" will net you many more.
A bad wire can show a voltage when there is nothing USING that voltage, but drop significantly when a load is added to the circuit. If you try to light the test light AND read the voltage at the same time, you will see the voltage drop. Connect your meter and watch the 11.7 volts. Now, add the test light while watching the voltage. Did the voltage drop? Now, move the the other end of the DK-GRN wire (at the ECM) with the volt meter. Try to light the test light at the relay socket. Did the voltage drop at the ECM?
Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
"Knowledge is a weapon. Arm yourself, well, before going to do battle."
"Understanding a question is half an answer."
I have learned more by being wrong, than I have by being right.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
This video is what I'm referring to:
Or, is this old news? 'Cause I'm sorry if it is! :silly:
Will the dark green/white wire light a test light during cranking? Or, during the key on fuel pump prime.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
Thanks for the video and helping to fill in the gaps in my knowledge. I know there are many. But, I learn more every single day.
"Knowledge is a weapon. Arm yourself, well, before going to do battle."
"Understanding a question is half an answer."
I have learned more by being wrong, than I have by being right.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
Hi, so should I check power going in to ecm still, or is this normal? Should i check grn/white wire with light while cranking? Thankspole71 wrote: Thank you, Tyler. There's no being a jerk about it. Good call. I was un-aware of a bias voltage, being here. I was assuming the 11.7 volts was while trying to crank.
Thanks for the video and helping to fill in the gaps in my knowledge. I know there are many. But, I learn more every single day.
Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
"Knowledge is a weapon. Arm yourself, well, before going to do battle."
"Understanding a question is half an answer."
I have learned more by being wrong, than I have by being right.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
Ok . Passed I went out today to fine my problem. Placing my hand on the fusebox in the back. It was hot. So I opened it and I think I found the source. Turns out my number 58 relay was very hot. Unplug the relay but when I put it back it started snapping. Then I could here things coming on. Seconds later I heard a pop and everything shut down. That's were I am. Thanks. Davepole71 wrote: Check the grn/white wire while cranking. You should see battery voltage and it should light the test light.
Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
"Knowledge is a weapon. Arm yourself, well, before going to do battle."
"Understanding a question is half an answer."
I have learned more by being wrong, than I have by being right.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
Lighter. Really. This isn't my first. I am 63 but I worked on these northstars when no one would. Been a while. The poping noise stopped everything. Nothing works not even dashpole71 wrote: Can you tell us what, or where specifically, Relay 58 is?
Noise sounded like it came from trunk. Thanks
Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
58 relay is in under back seat. In fusebox a twin to under hood. ThanksDavid56 wrote:
Lighter. Really. This isn't my first. I am 63 but I worked on these northstars when no one would. Been a while. The poping noise stopped everything. Nothing works not even dashpole71 wrote: Can you tell us what, or where specifically, Relay 58 is?
Noise sounded like it came from trunk. Thanks
Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
David56 wrote: Ok . Passed I went out today to fine my problem. Placing my hand on the fusebox in the back. It was hot. So I opened it and I think I found the source. Turns out my number 58 relay was very hot. Unplug the relay but when I put it back it started snapping. Then I could here things coming on. Seconds later I heard a pop and everything shut down. That's were I am. Thanks. Dave
Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
My apologies, David56. But you have confused me, a little bit. This thread was started by gregster for a 1991 s10. No power to the fuel pump. I thought I was replying to gregster and his S10.
If you need help on a different vehicle/problem, I encourage you to start a new thread stating your Year, Make, Model, Engine size, and a description of the problem you are having. This will help in minimizing any confusion.
"Knowledge is a weapon. Arm yourself, well, before going to do battle."
"Understanding a question is half an answer."
I have learned more by being wrong, than I have by being right.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-re...-no-crank.html#18522
I will respond on it, soon.
"Knowledge is a weapon. Arm yourself, well, before going to do battle."
"Understanding a question is half an answer."
I have learned more by being wrong, than I have by being right.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
Ok there is no light at grn/wht wire when cranking. There is power at b1 a6 c16. Hopefully you get this old how other person is on my thread. Thanks GregDavid56 wrote:
Ok . Passed I went out today to fine my problem. Placing my hand on the fusebox in the back. It was hot. So I opened it and I think I found the source. Turns out my number 58 relay was very hot. Unplug the relay but when I put it back it started snapping. Then I could here things coming on. Seconds later I heard a pop and everything shut down. That's were I am. Thanks. Davepole71 wrote: Check the grn/white wire while cranking. You should see battery voltage and it should light the test light.
Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
"Knowledge is a weapon. Arm yourself, well, before going to do battle."
"Understanding a question is half an answer."
I have learned more by being wrong, than I have by being right.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
grn/wht wire doesn't light up at all when key is turned on.pole71 wrote: When you first turn the key to the "On" position (without cranking), the ECM should power the g/w wire for 2 seconds, then turn off. Does it?
Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
As a final check, I would verify good grounds on A12 and D1.
Does anyone have a second opinion?
"Knowledge is a weapon. Arm yourself, well, before going to do battle."
"Understanding a question is half an answer."
I have learned more by being wrong, than I have by being right.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.