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Hi. Just wanted to thank you for your videos. I recently had a no start on a 1997 F150 4.6. I too... Read More
Hi. Just wanted to thank you for your videos. I recently had a no start on a 1997 F150 4.6. I took the opportunity of not needing the truck to educate myself on troubleshooting. Your videos along with Alldata were priceless. My question is this... my check engine light stayed on continuously while starting. I had spark at the plugs and no injector pulse. I traced it down to no ground from ECM to fuel pump relay. I replaced the ECM and all is hunky Dory. Why did the check engine light stay on why cranking when I had a CKP signal? By the way I particularly liked your testimony in the Panama video. Thanks for sharing your faith
ScannerDanner's reply: As you can see, this feedback page doesn't support a back and forth messaging system. Post your questions to my forum, we can do this there. Thank you!
ScannerDanner's reply: As you can see, this feedback page doesn't support a back and forth messaging system. Post your questions to my forum, we can do this there. Thank you!
Allan Escamilla
5 out of 5 stars
10 February 2019
Hey so I was wording on a power side switched circuit if you find your 0v & 0v and then find your 12... Read More
Hey so I was wording on a power side switched circuit if you find your 0v & 0v and then find your 12v & 0v (circuit on), and then you say to your-self "is this Solenoid internally open" couldn't you unplug it jumper 12v to it and with a volt meter see if the potential comes out the other end? Thank you for your knowledge.
ScannerDanner's reply:
As you can see my feedback page does not support a back and forth messaging system. Post this question in the particular ScannerDanner Premium lecture or video this applies to and I will answer you there. Thanks! IF you are not a premium member, post this question to my forum.
ScannerDanner's reply:
As you can see my feedback page does not support a back and forth messaging system. Post this question in the particular ScannerDanner Premium lecture or video this applies to and I will answer you there. Thanks! IF you are not a premium member, post this question to my forum.
Josiah
5 out of 5 stars
8 February 2019
Paul, I wanted to thank you and share this with you.
I have been a Mercedes Benz technician for al... Read More
I have been a Mercedes Benz technician for al... Read More
Paul, I wanted to thank you and share this with you.
I have been a Mercedes Benz technician for almost 17 years now. I work at a dealership, am a Team Leader and have also been responsible for training people. I became aware of you a couple of years ago and you have taught me so much!
Because of what I have learned from you I was selected to go through a program that Mercedes Benz calls "CDT" (Certified Diagnostic Technician). It is a course that consists of multiple one week classes that ends with a final exam. If you pass the final exam you receive their highest level of certification. The final exam has only a 50% pass rate and only around 4% (my own math based on the amount of CDT techs there are compared to the approximate amount of MB techs in the nation) of MB techs have had the opportunity to go through this program.
Part of the final exam is two different "bugged" cars that you need to correctly diagnose within 60 minutes each. Unfortunately I did not diagnose the second car in time, they did say that they would like me to come back to retest that one again, so we'll see. Just the fact that I got to go through that program was a victory to me!
Your teaching has changed my life and my career. I now have a reputation for being a good diagnostic tech (I still have a long way to go and am not as good as I'd like to be) and I honestly owe that to you. I just wanted to let you know that I appreciate all that you do!
Thank you for helping me,
Dan Jensen
Mercedes Benz of Denver
I have been a Mercedes Benz technician for almost 17 years now. I work at a dealership, am a Team Leader and have also been responsible for training people. I became aware of you a couple of years ago and you have taught me so much!
Because of what I have learned from you I was selected to go through a program that Mercedes Benz calls "CDT" (Certified Diagnostic Technician). It is a course that consists of multiple one week classes that ends with a final exam. If you pass the final exam you receive their highest level of certification. The final exam has only a 50% pass rate and only around 4% (my own math based on the amount of CDT techs there are compared to the approximate amount of MB techs in the nation) of MB techs have had the opportunity to go through this program.
Part of the final exam is two different "bugged" cars that you need to correctly diagnose within 60 minutes each. Unfortunately I did not diagnose the second car in time, they did say that they would like me to come back to retest that one again, so we'll see. Just the fact that I got to go through that program was a victory to me!
Your teaching has changed my life and my career. I now have a reputation for being a good diagnostic tech (I still have a long way to go and am not as good as I'd like to be) and I honestly owe that to you. I just wanted to let you know that I appreciate all that you do!
Thank you for helping me,
Dan Jensen
Mercedes Benz of Denver
Dan Jensen
5 out of 5 stars
6 February 2019
I'll try to keep this short but just wanted to truly thank you for all of your amazing videos! I am... Read More
I'll try to keep this short but just wanted to truly thank you for all of your amazing videos! I am strictly a backyard mechanic working on my own rigs but never knew anything about electrical. I wanted to share my experience with you and like I said I'll try to keep it short.
I had a friend give me a 1996 Corolla DX 1.8 that quit running on him and he was gonna scrap it cause he couldn't find out what was wrong. I took it as a project to justify buying some tools. It would crank and start but then immediately die with a P1300 igniter circuit malfunction code. He threw some parts at it and it ran for another week and died again. He bought a used igniter and used distributor with ignition coil still in it. He assumed there must be a broken wire since it started to run and quit again. So I took it on and went to work. I did not do fuel pressure check but verified my fuel pump turned on with the key. Checked and had spark. Checked my injector pulse to find out that it would flash only a couple times before it stopped. So the computer was killing the injector pulse. I then used my new picoscope I bought for this job and checked my IGT and IGF to find I had no IGF signal. Tested my IGF for open/short at igniter and computer and it was good. I checked my power and grounds to the ECU using Mitchells eautorepair wiring diagrams and those were good. I followed their instructions on testing for the ignition coil, igniter and ECU but everything came back the way it should be! To be thorough, I checked my cam and crank sensors also which were putting out a signal but I didn't have access to known good waveform. I also ohm tested the cam, crank and ignition coil and all showed good to specs. I rough checked timing doing a relative compression test with my current clamp and probing the negative from the ignition coil and was firing right close to TDC so timing wasn't the issue. I decided to buy yet another igniter from a junk yard that I knew worked cause they had the same car in running condition there to test it on. I came home and put it in and STILL no start so I removed it and put the old one back in. I then realized I had forgot to do a current ramp test on the ignition coil because it passed the ohm test so I put it out of my mind. The current ramp showed an absolute short in the ignition coil that only happened under load. It looked like a square wave. Didn't shoot straight up to 7 amps but close to it. So I bought an ignition coil from O'reillys and put it in and STILL no start. I was baffled. I had no where else to go with it. After kicking rocks for a while I decided to put my known good igniter back in and it FIRED RIGHT UP! I put my old ignition coil back in to test it and again no start! I put the new ignition coil and original igniter that was in the car originally back in and it fired right up. I had a bad ignition coil AND a bad igniter! When he replaced the distributor and it ran for a week until the ignition coil went bad... he replaced the good igniter with a bad one trying to fix it. I'm pretty sure I narrowed the ignition coil problems down to the spark plugs. About a month before, he bought plug wires and cheap autolite plugs factory set at .044 that he didn't regap to .031 and it was causing the coil to put out too much voltage to jump the gap which killed the already old ignition coils... That's the only thing I can come up with. However, I am sooo thankful for your amazing videos cause I NEVER could have even attempted this without you. I will absolutely be buying your book! You are an amazing teacher! And your youtube channel is the ONLY one I have EVER subscribed to. After talking to the service manager at the local Toyota dealership about everything I did... he told me I should come work there! However I'm a crane operator and they can't quite compete on pay lol. I couldn't have done it without you! Thank you so much!
I had a friend give me a 1996 Corolla DX 1.8 that quit running on him and he was gonna scrap it cause he couldn't find out what was wrong. I took it as a project to justify buying some tools. It would crank and start but then immediately die with a P1300 igniter circuit malfunction code. He threw some parts at it and it ran for another week and died again. He bought a used igniter and used distributor with ignition coil still in it. He assumed there must be a broken wire since it started to run and quit again. So I took it on and went to work. I did not do fuel pressure check but verified my fuel pump turned on with the key. Checked and had spark. Checked my injector pulse to find out that it would flash only a couple times before it stopped. So the computer was killing the injector pulse. I then used my new picoscope I bought for this job and checked my IGT and IGF to find I had no IGF signal. Tested my IGF for open/short at igniter and computer and it was good. I checked my power and grounds to the ECU using Mitchells eautorepair wiring diagrams and those were good. I followed their instructions on testing for the ignition coil, igniter and ECU but everything came back the way it should be! To be thorough, I checked my cam and crank sensors also which were putting out a signal but I didn't have access to known good waveform. I also ohm tested the cam, crank and ignition coil and all showed good to specs. I rough checked timing doing a relative compression test with my current clamp and probing the negative from the ignition coil and was firing right close to TDC so timing wasn't the issue. I decided to buy yet another igniter from a junk yard that I knew worked cause they had the same car in running condition there to test it on. I came home and put it in and STILL no start so I removed it and put the old one back in. I then realized I had forgot to do a current ramp test on the ignition coil because it passed the ohm test so I put it out of my mind. The current ramp showed an absolute short in the ignition coil that only happened under load. It looked like a square wave. Didn't shoot straight up to 7 amps but close to it. So I bought an ignition coil from O'reillys and put it in and STILL no start. I was baffled. I had no where else to go with it. After kicking rocks for a while I decided to put my known good igniter back in and it FIRED RIGHT UP! I put my old ignition coil back in to test it and again no start! I put the new ignition coil and original igniter that was in the car originally back in and it fired right up. I had a bad ignition coil AND a bad igniter! When he replaced the distributor and it ran for a week until the ignition coil went bad... he replaced the good igniter with a bad one trying to fix it. I'm pretty sure I narrowed the ignition coil problems down to the spark plugs. About a month before, he bought plug wires and cheap autolite plugs factory set at .044 that he didn't regap to .031 and it was causing the coil to put out too much voltage to jump the gap which killed the already old ignition coils... That's the only thing I can come up with. However, I am sooo thankful for your amazing videos cause I NEVER could have even attempted this without you. I will absolutely be buying your book! You are an amazing teacher! And your youtube channel is the ONLY one I have EVER subscribed to. After talking to the service manager at the local Toyota dealership about everything I did... he told me I should come work there! However I'm a crane operator and they can't quite compete on pay lol. I couldn't have done it without you! Thank you so much!
Brian Bjork
5 out of 5 stars
23 January 2019
The attention to detail in the description of scanner Danner’s videos alone is amazing, do not mis... Read More
The attention to detail in the description of scanner Danner’s videos alone is amazing, do not miss the hard work that goes into that easily overlooked space. Time stamps, notes, links to related content and tools is all there. You MUST, MUST, MUST read the description. These videos and his dedication make better technicians and without realizing it maybe better people. Don’t learn this stuff just to not be a parts changer, or for your ego, or to prevent comebacks.... do it because in everything you do you should strive to do your best and you want to fix the car right for the customer, is that not what you hope any tradesman would do for you in there field. Those other benefits are just a byproduct of doing your best! SD is the best teacher on YouTube and his premium content is a higher level of that same content!
Wayne Costanza
5 out of 5 stars
18 January 2019
