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Condition is all the time warm or cold.
Should the green wire on the tps be 12v all the time or change with throttle position?
Yes 1.6.
Yes pinky finger size vacuum line right on the bottom of throttle body. Do you have a vacuum diagram? Noticed no line to throttle diaphragm..??
Should the green wire on the tps be 12v all the time or change with throttle position?
No not all the time. Just as the idle, blue wire, drops to 0v on idle, the green wire drops to 0v on throttle plate at 70° or more.
Both will have 12v between idle (1.5°) and 70°.
Clarify, you have no vacuum line from the throttle opening diaphragm to the throttle body?
"an open mind let's knowledge flow in and wisdom flow out for a man who has neither never listens to those who have both".
Being wrong doesn't bother me, it's being right and not understanding why that does
Yes I see. "Throttle open diaphragm" ??
The one on this car is different as there is no nipple or vac line. Seems strange to me as it doesn't seem to be doing anything no wires or vac line just a plunger on the throttle butterfly cam.??? I will try to post a pic after work.
Toyota uses several different types of throttle openers. I believe yours does not have an external vacuum port but instead the TO uses throttle body internal vacuum to pull the spring loaded valve back... any way the reason for all this was to test the TP switch for correct positioning. Did you or someone tamper with or remove and replace the TO switch?
"an open mind let's knowledge flow in and wisdom flow out for a man who has neither never listens to those who have both".
Being wrong doesn't bother me, it's being right and not understanding why that does
Ok... Sorry I was confused...I thought you were referring to another part.... Any other ideas on what might cause it to idle good but sputters/stall when trying to accelerate? Will rev up fine if I open throttle by hand very slowly.
You reported that the 12v remains on the blue (IDL) wire when you rotate the throttle plate. You can test the TP switch by unplugging it. Use an Ohm meter on the corresponding TPS pins for the blue and brown wires you should have continuity with throttle shut and no continuity just a hint open. Suggested is to use a .035 in feeler gauge between the throttle stop. (for the hint open position). If you don't get the proper readings, the TPS is most likely gone bad. This is why the 12v stays on. It doesn't get pulled to ground. Hope I explained that well enough:blink:
"an open mind let's knowledge flow in and wisdom flow out for a man who has neither never listens to those who have both".
Being wrong doesn't bother me, it's being right and not understanding why that does
Upon testing it while connected the blue lead is 0v closed throttle 12v throttle open alittle bit. I will check with feeler. I thinking now that it is operating properly and it is something else causing my issue... Any ideas?
EGR comes to mind. Not fully closed due to carbon buildup. Fuel pressure low. Don't believe the fuel system has a schrader valve to test from on your engine. Don't think it's the ecm though.
"an open mind let's knowledge flow in and wisdom flow out for a man who has neither never listens to those who have both".
Being wrong doesn't bother me, it's being right and not understanding why that does
I don't think it is the ecu now either. I was confused by the 12v at the tps. Do you know where the egr is located? Also could ot be a distributor problem?
Unless it's a California version will not have it.
At this stage can't rule it out. Have to look but I think Paul has a video of his son's 92 or 94 Toyota with a dist problem. I think it was no start though.
"an open mind let's knowledge flow in and wisdom flow out for a man who has neither never listens to those who have both".
Being wrong doesn't bother me, it's being right and not understanding why that does
Ok... Timing seems to be good. But pulled the spark plugs and they are black with carbon"not oil fouled" I just cleaned and re gaped the plugs the day after the car started having problems. It seems to me that something is causing an overabundance of fuel going in to the cylinders. I checked the cold start by taking it off and plugging port from fuel rail. No change. If I squirt the smallest amount of carb cleaner into intake while idlng it dies. Checked the fpr seems fine. Checked the fuel return it is clear. Anybody have any ideas??? Is there any way to test the components in the distributor?
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