Help us help you. By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms (no start, high idle, misfire etc.) Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily!

96 ford e350 with a 460 no start

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2 years 2 months ago #54895 by ontheriver
Or partial power, I think there are 3 power feeds to the ecm

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2 years 2 months ago #54901 by VegasJAK
with the spout disconnected. measure the voltage from the spout wire to the base of the distributor with the engine running. should have near battery voltage. if not, ecm may be your problem.

your system is the ccd (computer controlled dwell) tfi. the ecm controls the dwell time for timing advance via the spout signal. by disconnecting the spout, you remove the ecm from the equation. you're now running at base timing all the time. ecm also controls the fuel pump.

"an open mind let's knowledge flow in and wisdom flow out for a man who has neither never listens to those who have both".
Being wrong doesn't bother me, it's being right and not understanding why that does

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2 years 2 months ago #54916 by David117
I’m searching for a wiring diagram for the ecm. I tested all of the relays and you can here them click but I watched a video where scanner danner said even if they click they could still be bad. Can I bypass the relay and if so how?

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2 years 2 months ago #54917 by David117
I haven’t got it to the point where it will run yet. It’s been sitting for a year so I was going to drain the tank and put a new fuel filter on it and flush out the old gas from the lines. I guess I could go ahead and do that. I started working on it today and I could hear a relay clicking under the dash. It controls the turn signals. The turn signals are working with the key off? No hazard lights. I pulled the #1 fuse and the relay stopped. Could this be causing my problem or is it just a separate issue?

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2 years 2 months ago #54918 by ontheriver
That relay clicking could be you're ghost spark, put everything back together except that fuse and check for the spark with key on, and another check for eec relay "ecm,pump" is check for power at injectors, red wire, with key on

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2 years 2 months ago #54921 by David117
Ok put everything back with no change. Still firing in the run position. I’m getting power to the red wire on the fuel injector. does that mean I can assume my pcm relay and circuit is ok? I also exposed the spout wire back to where it splits. Can’t see anything wrong. I need a wiring diagram that shows me which wires are supposed to power the computer.

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2 years 2 months ago #54922 by ontheriver
If you want, p.m. me with you're email, I will send the limited(partial wiring diagram) that I have, I tried here, but says unsupported from my phone, then you could upload it here if possible

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2 years 2 months ago #54923 by ontheriver
gcbanks70@gmail.com , that's mine to make it easier
The following user(s) said Thank You: David117

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2 years 2 months ago #54924 by David117
Ok I tested the pcm connector. The yellow wire is hot continuously. 2 red wires are hot in the run position. There’s 2 black and white wires and 1 solid black wire at the top of the connector that tested good for grounds. Not sure but that sounds encouraging?

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2 years 2 months ago #54926 by ontheriver
In those era vehicles, a burnt out taillight bulb will cause auto tranny shift issues, why, I don't know, l learned cause I have a 97 f-350 with a powerstroke, I would still look further before calling it a bad ecm, what about pulling all non-essential fuses and relays for a second test?

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2 years 2 months ago #54929 by David117
Good idea!! I’ll try that. Thanks

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2 years 2 months ago #54930 by David117
I have several issues with the turn signals and flashers.

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2 years 2 months ago #54941 by David117
Did you send me that wiring diagram?

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2 years 2 months ago #54942 by ontheriver
I did last night, my email says "still sending" . I'm updating that app to see if it is the problem, give me a few
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2 years 2 months ago #54978 by David117
I pulled the computer and opened it up and there’s no doubt it has some fried circuits. My question is how do I determine what fried it? I don’t want to install a new computer just to fry it too!! Please advise!! Thanks!!

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2 years 2 months ago - 2 years 2 months ago #54979 by David117
Last edit: 2 years 2 months ago by David117. Reason: Duplicates

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2 years 2 months ago #54980 by David117

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2 years 2 months ago #54981 by David117
Look at all of the rust and corrosion on the right side. I would have thought the computer would be sealed to prevent the moisture from getting in?

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2 years 2 months ago #54982 by David117
Where would be the best place to get a new computer? Oreillys said they can get one for a 200.00 dollars that’s plug and play or should I try to find one in a salvage yard?

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2 years 2 months ago #54990 by David117
Well I sure need some advice. I’m going to order the new computer today.

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