Help us help you. By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms (no start, high idle, misfire etc.) Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily!
RJMARRA wrote: To properly ohm test a wire it must be completely isolated. This means that it must be unplugged at both ends, or if there is a splice you must unplug anything that wire connects to.
Got it. I thought you were referring to a specific end of the wire. I will try that, thank you!
As I am in the process if the testing the data line, I decided to unplug more modules. I disconnected the AWD module, then noticed some other accessories are on. The P for Park is now lit up in the dash, although it comes and goes. I plugged the TCM back in, and the car started up. It starts now consistently but some issues are still present, including shifter still stuck in park, no dash chime, and no turn signals. I get these back if some modules are connected and others are not. When I plug the OBD scanner, some things stop working, such as the climate fan. So it is too shorting something, which is explains why there is no communication with the modules.
The modules that prevent the car from starting are:
- AWD
- ABS
- Electric Parking Brake
- TCM (although I was able to start it when the AWD was disconnected. If AWD is connected, TCM is a no go)
- I am sure all other modules connected in the network.
I put the 3 pages diagram that Chad shared in one page and attached it. I picked one module to start with and I test line by line. I was wondering if there is a better/faster way to find the short?
After battling with the issue, I was able to identify and fix the problem. I went back and connected the multimeter to the DLC and found good readings at the MS-CAN, but the HS-CAN was shorted. The car is practically new, so the wiring was ruled out after I checked the area where the impact happened, and everything was intact. I started and continued to unplug the modules, but the network was still shorted. I went back to the schematics and found out there was one last module that I did not check and it is the last one I would think of. It was the Power Liftgate Module!! As soon as I disconnected it, I got voltage at Low and High pins in the HS-CAN. Everything went back to normal and the car started right up. I still had some malfunctions, including the Keyless malfunction system, Power steering Malfunction, etc., but they went away as soon as I replaced the ABS assembly as they all communicate with it. The ABS was not shorting anything, I knew it needed to be replaced as it got hit during the impact. The keyless error came from the Start and Stop Unit, which when I scanned with FORScan, it found 2 codes and both were related to loss of communication with the ABS.
I installed a genuine new PLG module, which only cost me $60 from eBay (open box), and got the ABS assembly from the salvage yard. I made sure to buy one from a car the did not get hit from the front, and luckily it had only 10k miles. I was able to configure both modules and calibrate the ABS sensors with FRSCan. I did not know this software is capable of a lot of things!
I can't thank you enough for your help!! I appreciate everything you have shared, and I will make sure to share the knowledge.
Hi mate
i have the same issue with Mazda 6 2023 model
can you please help ne
i read all your responds
it was with unplugging modules
but I cannot find the plug on my car.
can you please help me
I posted this issue on the form with videos
which exactly same as you
push start and doesn’t start and makes the throttle noise
