2003 Mitsubishi Galant no start

Today I had a 03 galant with a 2.4 liter. Owner said they stopped at a light and it died. First I tried to crank it over and it sounded light it wanted to fire every once in a while. You could smell fuel and got smoke out of the intake.
I checked for spark and had it at both coils.
Next I checked for codes and had po335 and po340. I looked at scan data and had RPM and the CKP signal pid switched to on.
Next I checked powers and grounds at the sensors and both were good. I hooked up the the signal wires on both and hand 0-5v square waves on both.
Both signal wires had 5v bias voltage when unplugged so next I checked mechanical timing and the marks lined up.
Next I tried to rule out fuel and started starting fluid in the intake and nothing. Vedited injection pulse and it's there.
I did a relative compression test and looked even across all cylinders.
I am at a loss on where to go next.

I am at a loss on where to go next. Any advice is appreciated.
Here is a video of the scan data and Cam/Crank signal on the car.

What's the exact code description you have? Could the valve timing be out?

Another though is it may be getting fuel injected but they've put diesel or something in it? Been stung like that before.

Crank sensor cuirtcut fault and cam sensor circuit fault.
I pulled the timing belt cover and checked the marks. They were dead on.
I did not check fuel pressure because I don't have a adapter to T a gauge in but I could smell fuel and tried using starting fluid to get it to start.

What the crank and cam doing KOEO?

KOEO both sensors have 12v feed and are a 0v on the signal depending on where the tone ring is at. I'll attach a picture of the cam/crank during a crank. I don't have a known good to compare it too. Hopefully someone on here does.

What's voltage on a crank?

On the signal wires? 0-5v square waves. They go all the way to 0 and all the way to 5.
Power feed lights a test light so it supports a load so I don't think that is a problem.
Scan data also shows the crank signal and RPM so it's getting to the computer.

Sorry, I meant system voltage at the battery. Voltage on a crank and amps drawn by the starter.

Didn't check. It cranked pretty strong so I didn't think their was a issue with voltage drop.
I want to don't a compression test. It sounded like it had compression and was even on a relative compression test.
It kinda sounds like ignition timing is off but the timing marks line up.
It pops and smokes out the intake while cranking

Could this be because of heavy carbon on valves soaking fuel up before it reaches the chamber? I've adopted checking the battery voltage drop on crank. Charge it fully and crank about 10x, taking note of drop. You have any idea of the history of the vehicle, service, owner's driving style, fuel type/quality etc. Were they getting any issue before at all? Maybe this car's been begging for help months now and has finally given up.

Can you scope the timing? Amp clamp or battery voltage on 1 channel and coil signal on the other. Confirm the spark is close to tdc? The popping out the intake suggests that if the cam timing is ok, spark timing is not.

I'm looking for a known good cam/crank relationship right now, I'll get back on when I find one. My memory says that relationship is good, but I'm checking anyway.

I really like matt.white's suggestion to check spark timing! The trouble with this design is that there's only two crankshaft 'pulses' per 360 degrees, or four every 720 degrees, with no sync notch. This means it's possible for the crankshaft tone wheel/reluctor/toothed wheel to slip on the crankshaft, and still look like it's in time with the camshaft. :blink:

matt.white wrote: Can you scope the timing? Amp clamp or battery voltage on 1 channel and coil signal on the other. Confirm the spark is close to tdc? The popping out the intake suggests that if the cam timing is ok, spark timing is not.

Right on. I think that's a great place to start.
Do you know if it's had any service lately that would have required the removal of the crank pulley?
Looks like the crank sprocket, the CKP pick up and the balancer kind of sandwich together. I don't know if it's keyed or not, but if anything slipped here, you would end up with similar symptoms.




I also checked the definitions for the codes you posted.
The criteria for setting each code is lack of signal (which you proved the PCM is receiving).
If you clear the codes, do they come back after cranking?

Tyler wrote: I'm looking for a known good cam/crank relationship right now, I'll get back on when I find one. My memory says that relationship is good, but I'm checking anyway.

I really like matt.white's suggestion to check spark timing! The trouble with this design is that there's only two crankshaft 'pulses' per 360 degrees, or four every 720 degrees, with no sync notch. This means it's possible for the crankshaft tone wheel/reluctor/toothed wheel to slip on the crankshaft, and still look like it's in time with the camshaft. :blink:

Beat me to it!

Noah wrote: Beat me to it!

Bwahahahaha

But, to answer your question:

I don't know if it's keyed or not, but if anything slipped here, you would end up with similar symptoms.

It's not keyed, but it should be. The reluctor is held to the crankshaft belt sprocket with little tiny roll pins... You can imagine how easily they fail and allow the reluctor to slip.

Tyler wrote:

Noah wrote: Beat me to it!

Bwahahahaha

But, to answer your question:

I don't know if it's keyed or not, but if anything slipped here, you would end up with similar symptoms.

It's not keyed, but it should be. The reluctor is held to the crankshaft belt sprocket with little tiny roll pins... You can imagine how easily they fail and allow the reluctor to slip.

I have actually seen that happen, the roll pins break and the valve timing is on but the reluctor moves causing the spark timing to be off. Do what matt.white has suggested.

matt.white wrote: Can you scope the timing? Amp clamp or battery voltage on 1 channel and coil signal on the other. Confirm the spark is close to tdc? The popping out the intake suggests that if the cam timing is ok, spark timing is not.

I had that though. I was sure how accurate it would be with starter current. I was wishing I had a pressure transducer.
I'll give it a try though.
I have seen these pulleys break between the rubber and outer ring and spin but I couldnt see any sing of that.

What's everyone's thoughts on plugged exhaust? Possibly?
The battery was doing and I didn't have a jump pack with me so I didn't get a chance to check it or do a compression test

Dsmnickk90 wrote: I had that though. I was sure how accurate it would be with starter current. I was wishing I had a pressure transducer.

Yeah, it's not all that accurate, but it'll be good enough to show the problem. If you're experiencing intake popping, then the spark timing problem will be obvious on the waveform.

What's everyone's thoughts on plugged exhaust? Possibly?

I'm skeptical about a plugged exhaust, mostly due to the symptoms described. The owner says it died suddenly at a light, right? The catalyst would pretty much have to disintegrate instantly in order to cause that. If the owner had said that they'd noticed low power and hard starting for awhile before this happened, then I'd be more suspicious of an exhaust problem.

Alright I'll try that and see what it looks like.
His wife was driving it and she's a little out there so it's hard to tell exactly what happened.
I really want to verify fuel pressure to but I just have a basic tester.

Does anyone have any recommendations on fuel pressure kits that have good coverage. I would love to get the OTC kit but it's over $400. I wish i would of bought it a few years ago when you could get it for $265. I'm not a professional this is just a hobby for me. I wish I could do it for a living but you can't always chase your dreams.