2009 Chrysler Town & Country Touring 4.0L P2100 Throttle Actuator

@Ben
PCM connected test light on B+ pin 3 pin 5 pin 6 light test green. Hmm...



@Tyler
I didn't read for understanding apparently first time. In essence, I'm testing the integrity of the wires from pin 3 and pin 5. Test light on ETC motor pin all the way through to pcm c2 which is grounded. Performing test now.

Ok Tyler.
Unplugged TB and PCM connectors. Grounded the PCM connector and used test light connected to B+ on pin 3. Pin 3 illuminates green.

Performed same test changing position on PCM connector to associate with pin 5. Pin 5 illuminates test light green.

So I found a post that contained troubleshooting for a Chrysler 300c / Dodge Magnum. Different vehicles but the concepts appear to be the same from across vehicles as I see the same steps for PT Cruiser and Jeep Wrangler. Pins on the both connectors are the same. The only variance appears to be the Ohms when measuring the actual TB on step 10. Here are my results.



Test 1
pass


Test 2
pass


Test 3
pass


Test 4
pass


Test 5
No Reading (Multimeter did not change)

Edit
I'm not sure that I am doing this correctly. I have both the TB connector and PCM unplugged. Then I am connecting my multimeter to the relevant pins for ETC + and ETC - on the PCM connector. But since the connector at the TB is disconnected wouldn't that be the reason I don't have a response on the multimeter? Should I jump the pins on the TB connector? I tried this same test with the TB connector connected at it shows a resistance of 06.5 when set to 200 on my MM.

Test 6
pass (00.4 when set to 200 on multimeter)


Test 7
No Reading (Multimeter did not change)
EDIT:Connected jumper wire from PCM ETC (+) pin to known ground on transmission. One end of MM probe on ground and other end on ETC (+) reads 00.4


Test 8
pass (00.4 when set to 200 on multimeter)


Test 9
No Reading (Multimenter did not change)
EDIT:Connected jumper wire from PCM ETC (-) pin to known ground on transmission. One end of MM probe on ground and other end on ETC (-) reads 00.4

Went back and read all previous posts to ensure I've done all steps requested. I do believe I have. I hate to jump the gun with the additional testing but only did so due to no response. Any feedback would be appreciated.

Addendum
Just wanted to add that the test may be skewed as well now b/c its no longer a hard fault as it is not giving the P2100 DTC. So for intermittent issues, I remember Paul saying to look for vibration and heat. So I didn't see any heat issues with my contact points. So I drove around and she performed without issue. I was able to turn vehicle off / on and continue to drive without issue. I then decided to locate several speed bumps and a more coarse terrain to which after I powered the car off and turned it back on symptoms reappeared.

Gotta love intermittents! :silly:

Love the testing you've done. Just so I'm clear, what kind of test light are you using? A digital/LED/logic probe type? If so, that's probably not drawing enough of a load to really load those wires. An incandescent or small bulb (921) would put apply more load, and possibly expose wiring issues easier/faster.

It's interesting that the code only reset after a key cycle... And I recall that the PCM appears to have been replaced? :huh: At this point, I think you're looking at a partially broken wire, or a pin contact issue to the TB.

At this point, I think your best option is to install a load bulb on the ETC + and - wires, and carefully wiggle the harness while watching for the bulb to go out. If you get it to go out, you're close to the problem.

It's not pretty, but you could also cut the existing ETC + and - wires and run your own. Again, not preferable. But if the symptoms go away, you can send your TB pigtail back and either make the new wires permanent, or dig into the harness further. When symptoms are this intermittent, sometimes you gotta resort to stuff like this.

Thanks for the feedback. Yes the PCM appears to have been replaced some time after June 2016.

Currently I only have an LED test light and the smart probe which is also LED.

Before work I began digging thru my wire loom to locate my issue. Ive already unraveled from the PCM to the upper intake. I'm off tomorrow so I will try and pick up a better test light and jostling the wires. If not I plan on removing the intake and finish unraveling the harness. I have come to grips that running new wires may be necessary. I'll post my findings.

Just wanted to tie up this issue. Mechanic replaced wires and PCM. More than likely only issue was with PCM based on previous test. I now have a check engine light but no longer in limp mode and accelerates normally. Hopefully they'll clear up the few DTCs and I'll be on my way.

What was the end result on this? What were the codes set after fixing?

OE info shows on those tests performed that you have to have KOEO and Key off at other times.