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Its a 4 wires conector...
What i believe the igniter is bad or the bracket is dusty. .so cont pick it up a good ground..
Like i said on the last message
What i understand is the crank angle sensor send the signal to the ecu and then the ecu use that signal to send a low volyage to the igniter. And then my igniter start acting like a toggle swiching on and off to make my coil make spark.
Yep, that diagram is off. On your igniter, how many pins you have there or how many wires are there ? If you have 3 wires, one should go to the (-) side of the coil, one back to the ECM and the other should be ground. Make sure you have those wires going to where they suppose to go, specially the ground. Thank you. Hope you are in a warmer place, here in NJ is getting bad by the minute.
"its a 4 wires connector...
What i believe the igniter is bad or the bracket is dusty. .so cont pick it up a good ground..
Like i said on the last message
What i understand is the crank angle sensor send the signal to the ecu and then the ecu use that signal to send a low voltage to the igniter. And then my igniter start acting like a toggle switching on and off to make my coil make spark. "
Thinking like that, the igniter will give a ground to the (-) of your coil and bring the coil totally to ground to load up the secondary in the coil. Start by testing that ground, make sure is not gone. Look at the wire color, you should have one wire going back to the coil, one going to the ECM and another going to a ground nearby. Just check integrity of those wires, take a good look at the connector (look for green corrosion) and make sure that the ground connection is clean at the frame. Do you have a multimeter or DVOM ? The problem I see with these parts is that the wires and connections has to be in good working condition before replacing the igniter, coil or ECM.
Well i forgot. That i have the power prove 4 .. and i can read driver signal.. so i use to read low voltage from the ecu on the red wire.. and yes i have signal from the ecu. Is 2.62 volts.
And i check the black wire it has a good ground. . So last wire is the white . This is the one who make the voltage from the ecu flicker. But is not doing it. So i goig to replace the igniter..
"So last wire is the white . This is the one who make the voltage from the ecu flicker. But is not doing it. So i going to replace the igniter.. "
That wire with the engine cranking should be kind of flashing with the test light, that shows that the igniter is grounding the coil. I am intrigued by the +/- 3v from the ECM, I was expecting to be higher than that. And the fact that igniter passed at the test at the store is strange. Just for curiosity, if you going to the same store, ask how many volts they use to activate the igniter, please. Thank you.
O went there but dont show nothing about the signal from the ecm.. i not sure whats the right volt signal from the ecm to the igniter .because is getting signal from the ecm. (2.62 v) but im not sure if its enough voltage to the igniter.
Following olldata. Said a low voltage from the ecm go to the igniter and the igniter take this low voltage to ground the coil. So make a flicker signal .. but
Is 2.62v enough ? And my igniter is bad
Well.. bew update .. still the same...lol....try the new igniter still the same... so if the 2.62 v is not enough to make that igniter flicker.. or the ecu is bad or my distribudor.. i going to check the wires from the dissy..
But i think they working because the ecu is sending signal but not enough. .
Update. .... i check all 4 wires on the dizzy. . Black has ground.
Pink = continuity or 0 hms
Yellow blue=continuity or 0 hms
Yelow black= 12.26 volts..
Alre used all my cartridges.
Only 2 bullets left... dyzzy.. and ecm..
There is any way to test my crank angle sensor ?
did you got the voltages with the engine cranking ? as the crank sensor inside the distributor see the engine rotating a voltage should be pulsing at the pink (P) and the yellow/blue wire (Y/L). You should have ground at the black ( wire and battery voltage on the black/yellow (B/Y) as the Main Relay gets energized.I think you can backprobe it and check for pulse with the pp4. Thank you.
No codes.. but what i find is i dont have pulse at the ground wire at the injectors.
Let me explain. :
At the injector. I got 12 volts on 1 wire but the pulse wire is not blinking just stay on..
The ECM grounds the injectors and controls the spark, It's either not receiving a pulse from the crank sensor or is defective ( I would check powers and grounds to ECM, missing it will definitely mess up your ECM.) and because of your truck age I would also check all wires from one connector to the other to make sure nothing has happened. You may also have a distributor that uses a photocell and a LED to trigger the crank sensor, so I would check it out and make sure all is clean inside the distributor - I had a Datsun that developed a oil leak inside the distributor and those "windows" got cover and then I could not start it again, it started with a misfire then it moved to a no start. I prefer the metal ring design.
I got pulse at the injector but looks not strong enough. .
The truck still wont turn on .
Will be the same voltage signal from the ecm to the igniter. On the injectors pulse ?
Have you checked for voltage at the fuel injector connector ? With the main relay activated should be battery voltage there. The ECM grounds that voltage completing the circuit. You may also need to check for fuel pressure at the rail and this page may help you.
www.mazdabscene.com/threads/36333/mazda-...el-pressure-question
just be careful when working around the fuel system. Is your fuel pump running ?
The fuel pump is working .. i temove the line from the filter and i use a can and open the swich. And is fuel come out..
And i did it with the yellow conetor and i jumper wire too...
And is fuel come out.
I use starter fluid in the intake manifold. And nothing wont run.
please double check if you installed the distributor correctly, your spark may be way out of timing. If all checks out, you now have spark, fuel (either gas or starter fluid) and air, just missing compression. You may try a vacuum gauge or a compression test, I hope is only a timing problem and not a damaged engine.
Well.. well... im back with the final solution on this mazda..
I learned alot on this 1. Thanks to castironman. For all u help may cont pay back.. but my God will do..
The problem was the distributor
And after install the new one.. wont start.. because i was move 2 teeths.
Topic Author
wire and battery voltage on the black/yellow (B/Y) as the Main Relay gets energized.I think you can backprobe it and check for pulse with the pp4. Thank you.