No spark from ignition coil

I need some help.on a 92 mazda pick up b2600i 4 cylinder. . There is no spark come out of the ignition coil..
Follow the chapter 22 page 8
I got 12 with ifnition switch on.
On the (+)wire. And on the (-)wire agot a constant light
Following my diagram. (Like u will see in the picture?)i got a igniter (transistor) and a condenser.. i take the igniter tothe auto parts to tested but it pass 3 times show its good.and the condenser got 2 cracks on the bottom.
My question. Can the condeser be bad and make the igniter not working right?
How do i test it?
Or im messing something?
Thank u sd and every one for let me be part of this new world for me .. God bless u all.

That condenser is a capacitor that absorbs the spikes on the primary side of the coil. The problem would if it gets short to ground, but in your case the test light on the (-) side of the coil would be off and not on. I found a diagram here : www.b2600i.com/wiring-diagrams/wd_91_b26...2600_eng-cntrl-1.jpg ....just check if you have that test port, if so with the key on ground it very fast and see if you get a spark, use a spark test, if you do now post here and your problem is on the ground side of that coil. If all was working I believe you would have a blinking test light connected (do not push the needle on the flash light into the plug to not damage the contact, be careful) to the coil plug (-) with the coil disconnected and the test light connected to bat +. How long ago did you change the spark plus , wires , rotor and cap on your truck ? Just establishing a base line. Please post results.

Rotor and cap are new.. wires and spark plugs.
After i put I little more attention on the diagram..
I was testing the (-)side with the ignition coil still plug in.. and what i was seen is a bridge between + and -. So after unplug the coil. I only can see with the swich on . The test light on. .. on the + side .. but not on the negative side. (No light.noflickering on the (-)side.)
So i come up with tis question
The r/y wire from the ecm to the igniter should be light up when i turn the swich on right or im wrong?
Because i test it and my tester light up but very low .. because i understand there is low voltage from the ecm.
So on this case the igniters is bad? And the coil because shouldn't be bridging the(+)and (-)side right?
Thank you for u time.

Okay, let's stop a little bit and see how the system works ( or should). The feed to the (+) side of the coil is constant as long as ignition key is on. I believe that inside your distributor you have a pick up coil ( permanent magnets ) mounted on the shaft that when it turns activates the igniter like it is a switch. If you follow the (-) side of that coil on the diagram it goes through the W wire to ground by then B wire when that switch is off. When that switch turns on that circuit is interrupted then the magnetic field collapses and secondary inside the coil discharges its field trough the spark plug to the block, that creates an ignition event inside the cylinder that the distributor is pointing to. Now the R/Y wire gives the engine a feedback the it happened. If you go to the check connector with the key on and a test light and ground that wire fast enough to load the primary side of the coil when you move the test light away you should have a spark there. That will tell you that the primary and secondary of that coil is fine. If you have a multi meter you can test resistance on that coil (depend on where you live you may have to remove it bring inside your house and wait for it to warm it up ) at 68 F the primary should be between 0.81 to 0.99 ohms and the secondary 6000 to 30000 ohms. I hope I am understanding that you have no spark coming from the coil to the distributor.

If you remove the distributor cap and crank the engine do you see it turning ?

If you have a tachometer on your dash that is what I think it is that signal wire R/Y to the ecm and the (+) and (-) wires on that plug at the coil is that to bring power and ground to the coil. Paul have a couple of videos and he does a very good teaching on that here : and . This video here contains an igniter discussion, hope this helps you: .

Yes is moving.

My distributor has the crank angle sensor inside...
And my ignition coil is bolt on metal bracket to the frame on driverside compartment close to the firewall.. and my igniter .. and condenser is bolt in. On the same bracket..
I thought that my ecu send a low voltage signal to control the igniter so this one can be switching like on and off?

That is good, you chain is still okay and the driver crown at bottom of distributor is not loose. Do you have a tachometer inside on your cluster ? If so put everything together and see if you get a needle fluctuation when cranking. That will tell you that the igniter is picking up the signal from the distributor shaft. I am looking for a blow up view of your distributor.

"My distributor has the crank angle sensor inside...
And my ignition coil is bolt on metal bracket to the frame on driver side compartment close to the firewall.. and my igniter .. and condenser is bolt in. On the same bracket..
I thought that my ecu send a low voltage signal to control the igniter so this one can be switching like on and off? "
That would be sweet but if you look at the diagram, there is a coil and a "+" inside the distributor that when it passes near each other pulses the igniter and that wire will send the cluster a signal for the tachometer. Only problem would be if that diagram is wrong. Please tell me if your distributor looks like this :
www.mazdabg.com/ftp-uploads/Mazda/--Repa...s/8964/89642gA6L.gif

or if looks like this:

www.mazdabg.com/ftp-uploads/Mazda/--Repa...s/8964/89642g14L.gif


Thank you for your patience. See attachment and tell me if your distributor looks like the one with the big ball attached on the side or with the 4 wire connector.....

Its a 4 wires conector...
What i believe the igniter is bad or the bracket is dusty. .so cont pick it up a good ground..
Like i said on the last message
What i understand is the crank angle sensor send the signal to the ecu and then the ecu use that signal to send a low volyage to the igniter. And then my igniter start acting like a toggle swiching on and off to make my coil make spark.

Yep, that diagram is off. On your igniter, how many pins you have there or how many wires are there ? If you have 3 wires, one should go to the (-) side of the coil, one back to the ECM and the other should be ground. Make sure you have those wires going to where they suppose to go, specially the ground. Thank you. Hope you are in a warmer place, here in NJ is getting bad by the minute.

"its a 4 wires connector...
What i believe the igniter is bad or the bracket is dusty. .so cont pick it up a good ground..
Like i said on the last message
What i understand is the crank angle sensor send the signal to the ecu and then the ecu use that signal to send a low voltage to the igniter. And then my igniter start acting like a toggle switching on and off to make my coil make spark. "

Thinking like that, the igniter will give a ground to the (-) of your coil and bring the coil totally to ground to load up the secondary in the coil. Start by testing that ground, make sure is not gone. Look at the wire color, you should have one wire going back to the coil, one going to the ECM and another going to a ground nearby. Just check integrity of those wires, take a good look at the connector (look for green corrosion) and make sure that the ground connection is clean at the frame. Do you have a multimeter or DVOM ? The problem I see with these parts is that the wires and connections has to be in good working condition before replacing the igniter, coil or ECM.

I just need you to make sure the coil has a primary and a secondary winding still good. And for that will need a ohm meter.

Well i forgot. That i have the power prove 4 .. and i can read driver signal.. so i use to read low voltage from the ecu on the red wire.. and yes i have signal from the ecu. Is 2.62 volts.
And i check the black wire it has a good ground. . So last wire is the white . This is the one who make the voltage from the ecu flicker. But is not doing it. So i goig to replace the igniter..

"So last wire is the white . This is the one who make the voltage from the ecu flicker. But is not doing it. So i going to replace the igniter.. "

That wire with the engine cranking should be kind of flashing with the test light, that shows that the igniter is grounding the coil. I am intrigued by the +/- 3v from the ECM, I was expecting to be higher than that. And the fact that igniter passed at the test at the store is strange. Just for curiosity, if you going to the same store, ask how many volts they use to activate the igniter, please. Thank you.

O went there but dont show nothing about the signal from the ecm.. i not sure whats the right volt signal from the ecm to the igniter .because is getting signal from the ecm. (2.62 v) but im not sure if its enough voltage to the igniter.
Following olldata. Said a low voltage from the ecm go to the igniter and the igniter take this low voltage to ground the coil. So make a flicker signal .. but
Is 2.62v enough ? And my igniter is bad

Well.. bew update .. still the same...lol....try the new igniter still the same... so if the 2.62 v is not enough to make that igniter flicker.. or the ecu is bad or my distribudor.. i going to check the wires from the dissy..
But i think they working because the ecu is sending signal but not enough. .

Update. .... i check all 4 wires on the dizzy. . Black has ground.
Pink = continuity or 0 hms
Yellow blue=continuity or 0 hms
Yelow black= 12.26 volts..
Alre used all my cartridges.
Only 2 bullets left... dyzzy.. and ecm..
There is any way to test my crank angle sensor ?

did you got the voltages with the engine cranking ? as the crank sensor inside the distributor see the engine rotating a voltage should be pulsing at the pink (P) and the yellow/blue wire (Y/L). You should have ground at the black ( wire and battery voltage on the black/yellow (B/Y) as the Main Relay gets energized.I think you can backprobe it and check for pulse with the pp4. Thank you.