No Click Crank or Start

Did Fuse 201 have power with the key in the START/CRANK position?

swilson7674 wrote: I have not tested the DTR in that manner.

Are you familiar with the term "Back-Probing"?

The testing methods in this video may help you to familiarize yourself with some of techniques you'll need to check the crank circuit and ignition on your Lincoln.

201 did have power when i turned key to crank position. So now i suppose its time to test the DTR sensor. What is the proper way to test that part/circuit

Power from Fuse 201 should go INTO the DTR on Pin #10 (GRY/ORG). If in Park or Neutral, power should come OUT on Pin 12 (GRY)

Back-probe these wires and check for battery voltage, while in the crank position.

This is ScannerDanner Back-Probing a solenoid connector.


This is ScannerDanner piercing a wire to take a voltage reading.


If you pierce a wire that is exposed to the elements, be sure to seal the hole with liquid tape, or similar. Water intrusion will cause corrosion.

pole71 wrote: Power from Fuse 201 should go INTO the DTR on Pin #10 (GRY/ORG). If in Park or Neutral, power should come OUT on Pin 12 (GRY)

Back-probe these wires and check for battery voltage, while in the crank position.

This is ScannerDanner Back-Probing a solenoid connector.

This is ScannerDanner piercing a wire to take a voltage reading.

If you pierce a wire that is exposed to the elements, be sure to seal the hole with liquid tape, or similar. Water intrusion will cause corrosion.

Well, I've had some trouble getting back on here. However in regards to the DTR sensor I have voltage at pin10 but 0 at pin 12 gray wire. I need this car to run in the worst way. So what do I do next

swilson7674 wrote: in regards to the DTR sensor I have voltage at pin10 but 0 at pin 12 gray wire. I need this car to run in the worst way. So what do I do next

If you have power at Pin 10, but not at Pin 12, verify that you are in Park or Neutral. You can try to adjust DTR position by loosening the fasteners and slightly rotating the DTR on way, or the other. If still no power on Pin 12, while in the "Crank" position, replace the DTR.

If you have power at pin 10 and none at 12 that definitely points to the DTR? I have it so the lines on the sensor are aligned in neutral. The sensors I've been trying are salvage yard parts.

swilson7674 wrote: If you have power at pin 10 and none at 12 that definitely points to the DTR?

Power goes in. Power does not come out. Applying and alternate power source to pin 12 cranks the starter. I would be confident in replacing the DTR.

The only other possibility, that I can think of, is Female-to-Male pin connections. With the connector disconnected, and a multi-meter set on ohm, do you see continuity between Pins 10 and 12 of the DTR?

If I am missing, or overlooking, something, I am sure someone will chime in.

Do you happen to know if a DTR sensor for a 2000 is the same for later model years. The salvage parts I have are from 01 and 02 models. They are missing pin #1. I don't know if it matters or perhaps there were changes made to that part. Just a thought.

I applied power to terminal 12 of the DTR connector, however I did it in a stupid way. So I connected a wire from battery to the unconnected DTR connector and I also disconnected my negative battery cable. So when I went to test if the engine would crank I connected the battery and opened the door which triggered the alarm however the engine kept trying to crank but PATS system kept killing it and after that I couldn't get it to crank again. I'm wondering if I blew a fuse or relay or do I have to reset the PATS system? I guess the main thing is, is that it did want to crank when power was applied to terminal #12. Any thoughts ?