Help us help you. By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms (no start, high idle, misfire etc.) Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily!
wow ,our stories are similar , i been at my stalled car for 2 years next month sept 2022 . i too am going through the very fast clicking sound . my fuse # 10 keeps burning when i try to start ,no keys ,i have push button ! .my clicking sound might be different , seems to be coming from KR71 RELAY , this relay supplies the power to the # 10 fuse and a few others ,but only fuse 10 burns .fuse 10 goes to 3 separate IGN wires to pcm . a bad or very loose or intermittent connection on something can cause it to sound like a machine gun ,i found this out one day buy testing a relay , i was purposely barely touch the hot power so it would make the relay rapidly click .my story is " 2011 BUICK LACROSSE NO CRANK NO START" . SEEMS TO ME ,YOUR ISSUE COULD BE THE RESULTS OF A BARELY TOUCHING OR HANGING ON SUPPLY OR GROUND WIRE , OR THE SOLENOID has internal probs . . i would take starter off and have it tested at auto zone or somewhere else . i have done several jobs in the past where i just replaced the solenoid on starters because its more cost effective ! . the reason you and i been parked so long is we do a series of test ,it might be for days on end , we get frustrated and stop working on the car for a while lol ,, i know this is my reason anyways . i wish you all the luck in the world my brother GOD BLESS YOU AND ALL YOU DO !
So, in light of this now developing into a no crank situation, does the fuse fail with the key on the crank position, or only if the engine actually is cranking?
I fully agree with your analysis. Thank you guys to both of you Noah and you. You guys are great.
Fred
I cannot think of any other reasons at this moment because I am dealing with a car issue myself. Keep us posted.
I just want to take a moment to acknowledge your contributions over the years Monde. People like you make this forum what it is. Thanks for being here with a good attitude and for always being willing to help!
Hi Noah, I checked the fuse and it was fine. But please remember I have disconnected all the B/W wires and the ecu that feeds ignition wires, PCM, and alternator. So I am not sure once I reconnect all those whether the fuse willblow or not. Yesterday I ran into another snag. I was able to get the battery rotate the crank pulley along with water pump and AC compressor. Then I freed up the alternator pulley but once I connected the alternator I was back to square one. Battery was not turning the crank pulley, but may be too heavy. Altenator pulley was free completely before reconnecting it. Any suggestions very much appreciated.
Hi Monde/Noah, I needyour help.
Latest update on the suzuki.
I put allt he engine parts back ogether and repluged the ECU. Before I crank the truck I tested powers and grounds. B/W wire that feeds the ignition coils had 12 volt also tested the wire from ECU that gets grounded by ECU for the fuel pump and checked out OK. Since the ignition switch was faulty as I mentioned in my earlier e-mails so I just truned the ignition switch on but to crank the engine I coonnected a wiire to S terminal at the starter and touched the poistive post on the battery. The engine first tried to start but was not able since needed more priming due to has sat for years. But now when I try to crank the engine the crank pulley is very tight. and does not rotate freely So I tried to manually rotate thje Cranck pulley I can roate with force and shows resistance. I am not sure the starter may have locked with the flywheel.. Please give me your thoughts what could have happened during the crancking of the engine it is not locked but resist to rotate.? I have disconnected the alternator to take it out of equation.
So you are saying that with the accessory belts removed, it is difficult to rotate the engine?
This may sound silly, but are you using a good long handled ratchet on the crank pulley bolt or grasping the crank pulley by hand?
There is going to be some resistance whenever a piston is on the compression stroke.
Removing the spark plugs will make it so that no cylinder can build compression. Then you should encounter almost no resistance while trying the engine with a ratchet and socket on the crank pulley.
You are correct Monde I was comparing it to when the spark plugs were out and now since sparkplugs are in I feel that resistance I am using A breaker bar and also used a 3/8 rachet too. After all may be it is normal to feel that resistance. I will try to by pass ignition switch tomorrow and try cramking the engine again. Hopefully eventually fires up. Thanks fred.
Today I had time to work on the Suzuki. So I charged the battery before trying to crank the engine. After charging the battery, First I tried to check power to ignition coil and checked out good ( 12.3 volt). Then I checked the voltage on the B/w wire feeding the PCM and checkerd OK. 12 volt. Then I checked the power on the starter S wire and to my surprsie was only 8.7 volt. There was a voltage drop of more thna 3 volt. Previously I thought this was caused by faulty ignition switch.but now I have removed the ignition switch and still I am measuring 8.7 volt at the S wire no wonder the car does not start. So I started tracing the black and yellow wire ( S-wire) all the way back to the ECU. This wire per circuit diagram starts out from the ignition switch then slice off one leg goes to the starter and other leg goes to the Transaxle speed sensor. So I separted these wires and disconnected the ECU leg from the leg that goes to the speed sensor. I measured the voltage of the disconnected wir ethat goes into the ECU and shows - 2.25 volt( negative 2.25). So it apperas the ecu is causing the voltage drop. Then I turned the power off and still with power off, the wire terminal at the ECU that control the S wire shows -2.25 ( minus 2.25). I will try to attach a copy of starting circuit. What is your understanding why ECU shows negative 2.25 volt. Does that mean the driver is shorted ? Is there any fix or ECU needs to be replaced. Thanks
I will measure the voltage and report back. Based on yesterday at the splice the voltage was 8.7 volts at the computer disconnected was -2.5 volt. But I will remeasure to be sure.
So with the meter connected as follows; black lead @ battery negative, red lead @ yellow/black S post, set to Volts D/C, with the ignition switch unplugged, you measure 8.7v? I don't want to nit pick you to death here, but please be sure your meter is displaying V (volts) and not mV (millivolts)Is this also with the engine computer disconnected? With the ignition switch in the "OFF" position, or completely disconnected as you describe, I would expect only ground potential on that wire, or 0.0v.
The connection are correct as you described it. When I remeasured, the voltage the highest I can see on the Yellow /Black S wire is 9-10 volt still I am missing 2 volts. Also, Engine still is not cranking. As I said my ignition switch is messed up and I opened it and put it back together but still not working as it should. So I by pass it. But the good news , at the computer I am not seeing the negative voltage by the ECU pin that controls s wire. I am still trying to see where I am losing the 2 volts. The battery is fully charged and shows a voltage iof 12.71.
I have found a bad ground and I am suspecting the voltage drop at the S-wire ( Black/yellow wire) was caused by the bad ground.
Since as I mentioned in my previous replies that my ignition switch was messed up so I ordered one on line and and I should receive it by this weekend. The good news the ECU is fine and the bad ground has not caused any damage to it. Also the voltage at the ECU is zero now after correcting the ground. So once I receive the ignition switch then I will resume working on the resolution and follow your suggestion Monde on measuring the voltage close to the Transaxle sensor and the s-wire at the iginition switch.
Thank you both for the continous support and guidance.
Hi Monde,
I agree with what you said and Iwill perform the tests once I receive the switch. In the mean time I want to thank you for the video from Scanner danner. I am a fan. Regards, fred
Hi Monde,
I agree with what you said and Iwill perform the tests once I receive the switch. In the mean time I want to thank you for the video from Scanner danner. I am a fan. In the meantime I do have a question what is ther ole of PCM in case of 2004 suzuki. It is not grounding any relay. What does it do?
I received the new gnition switch on Friday and Installed today on Saturday. I measured the voltage with ignition switch on on the S wire at the starter and the wire going into the ECM both showed 8.9 -9 V. Then i cranked the engine then the voltage moved up to 12.4 sincve battery was just charged. So I do see I am getting battery voltage at the S-wire ( No voltage drop) but why Iam still getting 9 V with Ignition on and engine off. I will look at the video you sent me hopefully I get some hints. Any thoughts. I recently put all he engine components back together and i hate to pull it a part again. But 9 volt with only igntion switch oon is a sign of trouble that I started from the begining I suspected the ignition witch but now with a brand new one still I am having the same issue. Thanks fred
Is the 9ish volts present with the engine computer connected and disconnected? I know you mentioned some testing under both conditions, so I don't want to assume either way.
