Help us help you. By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms (no start, high idle, misfire etc.) Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily!
i would trace the whole length of the s wire , you may have solved your problem ,seems to me you got another wire somewhere that is almost fully bleeding into the s wire ,so the whole circuit has to be checked ,from switch, fuse and leading up to the starter .
also make sure one or two strands of wires from nearby post / connection isnt touching the s wire ! sometimes a quick short will burn all wires onto something except one to just a few strands ! i have seen problems where too much DIE -ELECTRIC SILICONE GREASE bleeds over to another nearby slot , connection , wire etc. thats another reason why you always use this stuff minimally and sparingly ! lol
think about running a thick bead on a board 2 feet .introduce current to the bead , now run many bead off of main bead to different circuits , it will send current to those circuits electrical properties of the silicone !!!
ON MY 2011 BUICK LACROSS 3.6 ALSO ,,,,,i got this same problem on my #10 fuse keeps burning when i try to crank it by push button . MY # 10 fuse feeds 3 separate wires that go to IGN to my ecm ...... my PP3 SHOWS THE SAME THING ,I PUT IN A BLOWN FUSE AND IM GETTING my 12 plus volts at power side but green led and sound with o.1 or 0.2 showing on load side ,.the # 10 fuse , shares connections with 3 or 4 other fuses .car ran fine ,went to dr. 3 hrs later got in and would crank , strange ! what did you do brother about this brother ?
I would leave it to Noah to make some recommendations since he is the expert I am just a novice in the electrocal trouble shooting. My humble recommendation is to trace the load side of fuse no. 10 to find out where it s shorted.
...i have seen problems where too much DIE -ELECTRIC SILICONE GREASE bleeds over to another nearby slot , connection , wire etc. thats another reason why you always use this stuff minimally and sparingly ! lol
think about running a thick bead on a board 2 feet .introduce current to the bead , now run many bead off of main bead to different circuits , it will send current to those circuits electrical properties of the silicone !!!
While silicon used on computer boards is a semiconductor, I'm quite sure dielectric silicone grease is an insulator. It is used on electrical connections for it's water repellent abilities.
Try a dab on the brushes of a DC brush type electric motor, like a blower motor.
Hi Noah,
I did the test that you did for the fuse leg feeding the PCM. With ohmeter was first on 200 ohm and then on 2k ohm in both cases the reading was OL. But once I raized the Ohmeter setting level to higher like 20 Kohm then ohmeter read 3.23 KOhm. This is comparable with what you have measured for TCM that had no short issue. My puzzling question remains Why I blow the Ignition fuse No. 40 that feeds PCM and ignition coil use once I crank the starter. Also I have fixed the S wire now it is not showing voltage only at cranking aposition as supposed to be. Is itsafe to put everything together and see if the truck starts. Am I not risk burning another PCM? Thanks.
First I triedto fix the ignition switch by moving the wiresaround since one of the leg that is connected to s wire was loose. After messing with the ignition switch then I meausre the voltage of S wire with Key on on only engine off. The voltage of the s wire was 0.01 - 0.04 ( residual voltage) volt. The test showed taht Swire now is now has no voltage as supposed to be. However, I still saw the test bulb illuminated when I inserted the bulb in the fuse. I am still puzzled why this test bulb is illumionated especially all ignition wires are cut or disconnected except the PCM wire remain connected.
Are you using an LED bulb? I really don't understand why the bulb continues to light when the ohm meter shows over 3,000 ohms, an incandescent bulb should not light.... I have no faith in the bulb test at this point.
I don't know how or why your previous PCM got taken out. As mentioned further back in the thread, you are going to to have to disconnect everything you identified as having that fuse as a power supply, and actually crank the engine to see if the fuse continues be overloaded and identify the component at at fault.
I have used both methods, a regular test light and just also I have used small car bulb couild be from back light and have made two attachments that are inserted into each fuse leg. Both types of bulb have illuminated with Key on only.. But I will follow what you suggested I will continue with disconnecting all wires gets fed by this fuse and crank the engine to see if fuse still blows.
i like the cheap computer safe test light from ,"yes im ashamed to tellya " harbor fright !!!! lol it shows red and green ,hot and ground ! a different change from standard ordinary incandescent types !!!
Thank you Monde for your recommendations I have discinnected the air bag and removed the corresponding fuse for it. I will follow your recommendations and maesure the resistance of each igintion coil feed wire and report back. Thanks Fred
I just did the test as you recommended I performed Ohm measurement of the coil wires against ground both ways with Fuse in place and without fuse in place.
1. With fuse out the resistance of the coil wires on left side of engine was 3.3 kOHM including the Black/W wire that feeds the O2 relay. which same wire that feeds colis coming from fuse No. `40 However,the wires that feed the colis on the right side of engine was OL.
2. Scenario 2. I put the fuse back in the fuse holder and measure resistance this coil wires on both sides ( left or right showed OL. What is your intrepretation does this mean the wires on eft sides shorted. Thanks
Hi Noah,
Sorry If Imissled you I have at times just disconnected the single wire that feeds PCM so you are partially correct in disconnecting the wires fromthe PCM. But yesterday I disconected the PCM completely but when I tried to cranck the engine all I hear series of rapid clicks. I was woorried the engine may have siezed but I was able to rotate the engine manually. So it looks like I may have a weak battery. It cannot be the starter since the starter is new was installed a year ago but the truck never started since. Any thoughts how I can get the cranking going? Thanks
Even after putting agood battery allI hear a series of rapid clicks w or a single loud click when I crank the engine I think the engine internally is dired up from sitting idle for over a year and not spining. Any ideas please?
Yes the rapid clicks coming from the starter. This means the starter cannot rotate the fly wheel to crank the engine.. Any suggestions please how to get the fly wheel turning? Thanks
I did the voltage drop test and everything checked out OK. Then I kept pouring oil and turning the crank shaft manually. I by passed the ignition switch with a wire and tried to provide 12V directly to the S terminal at the starter. This has helped first I heard only clicks, eventually the starter kicked in and strated rotating the crank shaft pulley and the other attached pullies like water pump, AC compressor. But the alternator has seized from sitting and needs to be freed up.
So Good news one step forward ( progress) engine is getting cranked, but as you remember I have disconnected the PCM and all wires at this point and a lot of other components such as EGR, throttle position sensor etc in search of the shorted wire. Now I need to put every thing back together and hoping the short is no longet there. Will keep you updated. Thanks for all the suggestions. We are not there yet but making small progress, but still I need your suggestions and gidance to complete the task. Thanks a lot.
