I was checking for a parasitic drain on a BMW the other day, and realized that I need a second meter.
I entertained the idea of hunting down another Vantage, but i'd like something a bit more modern and not so huge.
The Bluetooth function would have been nice at the time as well.
Have you used the app? It looks like you can plot voltage on a graph using the app?
Thanks in advance!
Pretty well so far! I just happened to be using it for a parasitic drain on an Infiniti yesterday.
The range on the Bluetooth is pretty good, maybe 30ft? I can get signal from it anywhere inside our shop, but outside cuts it off. The graphing function works well, but doesn't have a terribly fast update rate. Maybe once per second. Good enough for keeping an eye on something.
The included test leads are pretty cheap, though. The alligator clips that are included broke quickly, so I've been substituting my Snap-On scope test leads. Not a big deal, just disappointing.
On a side note, have you had success measuring VD across a fuse to find the source of the draw?
I had my Vantage in series with the battery and decided to try using that method with a Fluke that was in the shop and couldn't find anything.
I would have used the Fluke on the battery instead, but amp meter fuses don't live long in that garage... :pinch:
Do eeeeeet. Just FYI, the shipping time on mine was about two weeks. I'm kinda impatient, so that felt like an eternity, but that may not bother you.
The voltage drop thing is kinda tricky. I've had success with it when the draw has been larger, like 100mA or more. Less than that, and it can be tough to distinguish between draws, and modules with keep-alive circuits.
It's cool as a go/no-go test, i.e. key is off and the A/C compressor clutch fuse shows a drop. Doesn't matter what the number is, you know it shouldn't be drawing anything.
Is there a difference between the B35 and the B35 t?
I can get a B35 for under $50 online.
I was getting straight zeros on every fuse. I thought I found it early on on the cigar lighter fuse, but the fuse was blown. So I was just reading difference in potential.
Really cheap multi-meters are dangerous, most of them do not have proper input protection and could blow up in your hand. There are some decent ones under $100 though. Dave from the EEVBlog (on YouTube) has done a couple of shootouts of low cost multi-meters. His channel is electronics nerd focused (me) but the videos like the ones on multi-meters are good anyone who uses a meter.
You have to view anything on eeblog with the right perspective in his reviews he tends to make sweeping statements that are very focused on the type of work he is interested in.
If you are working for example on old style TVs, powerful Radio and Radar equipment or airfield lighting there is real danger as you can have both high voltage and high current but for car work ....
" We're trying to plug a hole in the universe, what are you doing ?. "
(Walter Bishop Fringe TV show)
Andyc.MacFadyen wrote: One big advantage of these meters is the internal fuse is rated at 20 amps and is very easy to change.
That is a big plus.
I'm impressed with the accuracy you recorded as well. The Bluetooth function is icing on the cake. I'm sold, got one coming in the mail.
Thanks for the help Andy & Tyler.
Yes, that is true. But things like not having the high current range fused, which is common in cheap meters, is dangerous even for low voltage/high current systems like cars. I suspect that most guys who by a multimeter will also wind up using it for electrical troubleshooting on mains voltages where having proper input protection is really important.
One annoyance of mine with certain multimeters is that some default to AC mode when turned on, these are more of an electricians meter. I have one like that and given that I work with DC 90% of the time it annoys me that I have to press the button to set it to DC mode every time.
Got mine in the mail yesterday!
Sent it quick enough. The app is pretty slick too.
Guess time will tell how well she'll hold up.
I'm right there with you Jeff_Birt about a meter defaulting to A/C mode. One of my first meters was off the Matco tool truck. You'd think that as a tool marketed to automotive professionals, that it would default to D/C voltage. After a fair amount of use, the print wore off the "Mode" button which switched between A/C and D/C modes.
I could use it, but anyone who borrowed it couldn't make heads or tails of the reading because
a) the meter defaults to A/C (which was marked by a tiny symbol on the display) and
b) the method to switch it wasn't very obvious anymore
I have never encountered a DVOM that wasn't fused, most are fused at 10 amps which is pretty useless for car work, the Owon is fused at 20 amps and the fuse can be changed without dismantling.
What I did buy and now no longer use because of safety concerns are those little Fuse Buddy syle ammeters. I had to dismatle one of mine because one of the buttons was sticking and draining the battery and was appalled at what I found they are rated at 20 amps for 30 seconds but the wire conductor size is totally inadequate, personally I wouldn't feel safe wth 2 amps going through one. I now use Voltpole blade fuse adaptor leads for my DVOM.
" We're trying to plug a hole in the universe, what are you doing ?. "
(Walter Bishop Fringe TV show)
I also used via Fluke 115 before. It has True RMS function that measures the actual performance of multiple lines in the circuit. Measure AC / DC voltage with a rated level of 600.0 mV; measuring 600 Ohm circuit, automatic alarm <20 Ohm, switching off> 25 Ohm, breaking open circuit or short circuit of 500µS or longer; resistance measurement with a range of 40,00 Mohm / 0.01 Mohm; measuring capacitance> 1000 µF, accuracy of 5% + 20%; Measuring range frequency 50kHz / 0.01 kHz. Measure main circuits with 600V power measurement. The appropriate voltage level measures a 3-phase power distribution system, withstands continuous overpressure that can occur on the grid or in industrial environments. The device meets all electrical safety standards CAT III 600V, IEC 61010-1 to ensure safety in use.
The alligator clips that are included broke quickly, so I've been substituting my Snap-On scope test leads. Not a big deal, just disappointing. 
Just FYI, the shipping time on mine was about two weeks. I'm kinda impatient, so that felt like an eternity, but that may not bother you. 
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