Pro Tip: Chevrolet Cruze Knock Sensor Codes
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2012 Cruze has a complaint of engine noise, no power, and the check engine light. They got their codes read at The Zone/Advance/O'Reilly/wherever, and they looked like this:
P00B7 is almost always caused by low coolant, so I skip that for now. Start the engine, and something's definitely ticking away under the hood. :dry: Doesn't sound like a rod is gonna try to escape or anything, but it doesn't sound good. I check the available scan data for anything useful, and I'm surprised to find this:
Not only is there the usual Knock Retard data that we find on GM's, but it's also got PIDs for cylinder specific knock. :huh: The data seems pretty confident that cylinder #1 is the problem, so I remember that for later. Is this accurate? Who knows. :silly: For giggles, I run through a power balance test to see if there's any weak cylinders, or if the noise goes away/gets worse. All cylinders are contributing, and the noise never goes away.
I poke around with the stethoscope for a bit, and decide that I'm getting the worst of it from the valve cover, above cylinder #4. Definitely in the upper end. This kinda flies in the face of the scan data I saw earlier. Whatever, stethoscope don't lie, so the valve cover comes off.
Not my image, just providing a lay of the land for anyone unfamiliar. I poke at the rocker arms, and find both intake lifters for #4 and one intake lifter for #2 are not pumped up at all. :blink: That'd be our noise. But why? Could just be a case of bad lifters. Before I move on, I shake the timing chain between the cam actuators, and find the upper guide is finger loose. :ohmy: The bolts are loose, too.
That's the one. But why does that matter? Look underneath.
There we go. A oil pressure leak in the upper end could definitely cause lifter issues. Tightening the bolts made everything quiet, no codes returned.
FYI, reason for the oil passage beneath the guide is because the guide also has a small port to lube the chain as it goes by:
I don't know the service history on this one, so I can't say if the loose bolts were the result of a previous repair or not. The cylinder specific knock PIDs were cool, but ultimately not that accurate, so I'll pass on those for now. I can easily see someone throwing a set of lifters, a knock sensor, a module, and who knows what else at this one.
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- bruce.oliver
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"Ground cannot be checked with a 10mm socket"
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Dylan wrote: Damn good find Tyler. Haven't seen a guide with an oil passage.
Me neither! :lol: That small passage makes me wonder what happens if/when it plugs with sludge. Is that the chains only lube source? I dunno.
Noah wrote: Awesome man! Great tip, too bad it wasn't something more serious. Then they could junk that load, lol!
Seriously, whenever I read about the future of automotive repair , I just remind myself that these engines are still being produced.
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- AlSteelHead
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For my info, what led you to this post, specifically?
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- AlSteelHead
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Error code is P0324 - Knock sensor module performance
None of the camshaft sensor also give fault code whereby I would say may be timing issue..
Spark plug has been changed, MaF has also being changed by other mec before car came...
I need help .
No scope, have digital meter, stethoscope, launch pro scanner... and others
Christ De Way Maker
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If upper end, I'd say it's worth pulling the valve cover off to investigate lifters and timing components. If lower end, then the engine may not be long for this world. :lol:
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Christ De Way Maker
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This is awesome that you were able to figure this one out—must be more common than any of us knows. My 2013 Cruze Eco (70K miles) was exhibiting similar symptoms—ticking noise coming from valvetrain (especially after engine warmed up), periodic lack of power, and CEL coming on and off. Higher octane fuel did nothing to stop the faux “knocking”. Finally, I borrowed my friend’s OBD2 scan tool and it showed only one code: P0324. Which lead me to the internet and your diagnosis. You were spot on. As soon as I pulled off the valve cover (BTW, pretty easy peasy on these vehicles), I could see that the timing chain guide and two retaining bolts were loose. Tightened them down, reinstalled cover, ignition coil, and plugs, and she runs goog as new. Thanks much!
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KNE wrote: This is awesome that you were able to figure this one out—must be more common than any of us knows.
No kidding. :blink: :lol: Wonder if they just don't get torqued correctly at the factory...
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Someone just junked one here after a garage told them it needed an engine. A little Lock Tite and a $15 valve cover gasket and this thing is the nicest car on the lot
Looks like I owe you beer this May in PA
"Ground cannot be checked with a 10mm socket"
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