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FIXED 2010 Nissan Armada ckp sensor kicking my ass
2010 armada 5.4 platinum, got towed in two days ago for no start, long story short it had no spark, codes pointed to cam sensor, I checked power, ground and signal for the cam sensor and it had no signal at all, replaced the sensor, it fired right up. Customer picked up went home, had a few extended cranks, car fires up but check engine light was on so he brought it back. This time the code was p0335 crank sensor circuit fault. I check power and ground and those were good pulled out the lab scope and saw the signal was very erratic. Pulled the sensor, inspected it, no obvious faults, I spun the engine by hand looking for defects in the reluctor and found nothing so I replaced the sensor ans signal looked great. Took it on a test drive everything was good, got back to the shop, shut the ignition off, waited about ten seconds, started the car back up and light was on again same code. I once again checked my signal and it appears to me to be fine but I’m still getting the same code.. not sure what to do, please send help lol.. I’ll attach before and after videos of the crank sensor wave form.
It’s a Nissan OEM ckp sensor. I’ll be looking at it tomorrow, for me I’ll be checking signal at the pcm and the reluctor wheel it’s self. Problem is I’m not sure how bad a reluctor wheel (flywheel in this case) has to be…
I am super confused…. I did all my checks, I have battery voltage on my power wire, 10 volts on my signal and 0.04 on my ground wire at the sensor. Cranking looks good, idle aware wave is nice and clean same when I bring the rpm’s up. I decided to do a check at the ECM. Remember signal voltage at the sensor is 10 volts, same wire at the computer is 5 volts KOEO… vehicle running I have a nice square wave at the sensor and at the ECM it’s a steady 5… unplug the sensor and signal wire drops to zero at the sensor but stays 5 at the pcm… Wtf….
I’ve double and triple checked my connector pin, wire color exc. even had other techs check my connector pins to triple check where I’m at… this doesn’t make any sense, I’ve never heard of 5 volts on a a signal wire and I just watched Danner do the same sensor with the same circuit on another Nissan but it was a different model. Either way circuit design is the same .
You have a pull up design hall effect for the crank sensor. The sensor itself generates the 10v and depending on where the drive plate aligns with the sensor KOEO you can have 0 or 10. Power is 12v and ground is a non computer controlled ground. Unplug the sensor, the signal goes to 0v.
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I decided to do a check at the ECM. Remember signal voltage at the sensor is 10 volts, same wire at the computer is 5 volts KOEO… vehicle running I have a nice square wave at the sensor and at the ECM it’s a steady 5… unplug the sensor and signal wire drops to zero at the sensor but stays 5 at the pcm… Wtf….
Sounds like signal wire is open somewhere between ECM and CKP. That or you're on the wrong wire at the ECM.
Ok it’s fixed….. Remember it originally came in with a no start, had no spark, I checked codes and it had a cam signal circuit fault code. Cam senates had no signal at all, voltage but no square wave. I did my checks and ultimately put a cam sensor in it and it fired right up. Obviously a fix considering it came in not starting. Next day light came on for a P0335 crank sensor circuit fault. I have video of the crank sensors signal before and after. Before replacing the crank the signal was glitching and at times completely disappearing on me.. Changed the crank sensor after a few checks and the light came on again same code.. it was at that point I created this thread. Now the crank sensor I used was OEM however the cam sensor I used wasn’t… I changed the cam sensor to OEM as scannerjohn suggested and now it’s fixed. That being said I still have a few questions. 1. Why wasn’t I able to see cam and crank signal st the pcm? I was back probed in pin 53 for the cam and pin 13 for the crank sensor on connector #F54 to the ECM. 2. What techniques or scan data could I have used to see why my already new sensor (Delphi sensor btw) wasn’t a good fix for this vehicle?
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