2002 trailblazer parasitic draw

I'm trying to figure out where, on my 2002 trailblazer, is this monster of a draw is coming from. So I put my battery on the charger to make sure I had a good charge on it , I took off the neg battery cable. Now from what I read I'm supposed to put a multimeter in between the cable and the neg post and start pulling fuses 1 by 1 and watch the meter . Ok except for I'm not sure of the settings and readings. I have this kind of multimeter (pic included).
I have the black one in COM and the red one in V?mA is that right also?
Because I did all that and my multimeter died so I thought I fried it . So I took that apart and didn't see anything obvious so went ahead and changed the battery and it seems to be working again. Now was that just a coincidence to shake my confidence or did I cause that?
So then I was going to try pulling the fuse and touching the neg cable back to the post but got no response out of that either. When I get the right settings I can check my batteries voltage before I start right?
Another weird thing is the charger was on 1 and later was on 2 isn't that going the wrong way? I had a 6 mos old battery in it but got a new one anyway.
I'm not going to be able to fix my other problem until I get that one fixed right?

Coincidence, and some chargers are smarter than others, like start small and increase charging if no problem is found, or the connection was not so perfect at the beginning

Draw tests are time consuming and must be performed properly to find the cause of the draw. You do want to set the the meter to the Amps (A) or Milliamps (mA) function. Connected between the negative terminal of the battery and the negative cable end. The general accepted key off draw is around 30mA, or 0.030A. This is after a period of 20 to 30 minutes. You need to allow all the modules time to go to sleep.
It's important to be ready before you hook up your meter. Doing things line opening doors will wake up modules, turn on lights and force you to possibly have to begin the wait period again or possibly even blow the fuse in your meter, making the amps function useless even though the meter still turns on and measures voltage.

Start around 7 minutes

Why couldn't I just put the battery charger on and pull fuses watching that needle

It's not sensitive enough, but, how severe is this draw?like no restart in a hour?

maybe 2 1/2 to 3. I thought it was an aftermarket stereo that I had put in because thats about the time it started and I wasn't to thrilled with the results ie ... when I started the car I couldn't turn the stereo off, speakers weren't right etc (yes I even tipped the guy) so I took out the radio fuse with no difference. If the wires were connected wrong and I took out that fuse it would stop the draw if it were coming from there yes? the start thing was 2/3 hrs after a jump. I dont know if the battery charger I have is even connecting correctly the metal is very thin on the clamps and i took a wire brush to them to try to get it shiny but its very thin

I would unplug the radio from harness to be sure, I think 2 fuses are involved

Ok I'm willing to tear my dash apart and do that what do you think the odds are its it? because I have another theory too. But involves a question too. If a key cylider is sloppy and the play lights the battery light on the dash when the key is out could that be a possibility too?

Rats, put off radio disconnect, is key cylinder loose, excessive play?

I'm trying to think of the easiest test for ignition switch staying on, take your meter and check fuses that are supposed to be off when key is out, ign 1, trans. ,02 heater and the like

I checked them and they were not active ,sir , fan, ign e ,eng 1, pcm 1, etc, no really , that was the name ,

Ok, is it safe to say it is off? Probably, you had to hit more than one circuit, I think there are three, so, even thou it's a hair trigger on the key cylinder, it is off when no lights on dash, now back to radio, sorry, or the alternator is stuck in charge mode, for the alternator take a metal tool, wrench or screwdriver and pass it by the shaft at the back, did it pull it in? and this has to be done with everything hooked back up

ok but I have to try that tomorrow. Check this out , tho it probably means nothing BUT at 5:14 PM my battery was at 12.7 I ran it for 5 mins and it was still 12.7. At 7:15 PM I went to start it and it was kind of weak but started after that the battery read 11.9. To me it seems that finding it should not be this hard like its sitting right in front of me laughing.

9:40 pm 7.9 battery

I FOUND IT !!!!!!!!!!!! Every fuse was reading at 88 90 then I pulled one out and it dropped to 40 . The # 24 IPC/DIC . So what is that for????? I'm on pins and needles for an answer or maybe not?

Congrats, instrument panel cluster, get it rebuilt

cant I get one from a wrecking yard?

I got one from a wrecking yard and I noticed on mine when the battery is dead the gas guage goes all the way down and on the new one it is at the normal E spot. Also is there any kind of relearn to changing the cluster?

Well I managed to solve my ignition switch problem and 98% sure I solved the draw problem too. Thanks to your help , especially the patient ones. It really means alot to be able to go online looking for a solution and actually get positive results only going by the info provided. Especially for me because I have my own way of describing things that not all people get. Thank you again. Thank you scanner danner for making this forum available.