Re:WCM Full w/8 Keys - Can I Clear Stored Programmed Keys for 2007 Charger?

Hello, first post here, but already liking it a lot and hopefully I can learn a lot. I'm certainly not a mechanic, and just getting into wrenching after buying a great car I resurrected from the dead out of field in Georgia . It's now running (and looking) quite well after several months of troubleshooting, repair, and restoration. It's been a fun journey. Now, it's on to rather smaller issues, like having more than one working key.

It is a 2007 Charger 5.7L with the police package (born an SE, that turned into a Pursuit) that came with only one working transponder key (not FOBIK). After buying an inexpensive OBD2 USB cable and inexpensive software (which I bought just to deactivate the police lighting feature, which worked great for that task). I just found out all 8 programmed key slots (in the WCM? PCM? SKIM?) are full, and am wondering what to do. I definitely try to avoid the use of locksmiths or dealerships whenever possible, as I believe knowledge is power and I shouldn't have to pay inflated prices just because I didn't want to spend the time to learn how, but sometimes I have no choice.

I had tried earlier getting an unprogrammed FOBIK I bought on Amazon to work (generally need 2+ working keys), but even a locksmith and dealership couldn't make it work. I wonder if it was because they didn't realize the SKIM/WCM slots were full. They blamed the Amazon key fob, and didn't mention the full slots, nor I think did they try to clear them because I still see the stored DTCs. The dealership said they could order a working key and program it for $150, but I'm skeptical they can do this if they didn't realize all slots were full, and wonder if I'll get a "surprise" three-hour labor bill with a recommendation to order a new WCM and SKIM on top.

The software Appcar DiagFCA – apparently allows me to clear all programmed keys, and reprogram new ones. I'm hesitant to do that as I don't want to brick the vehicle, by deleting my only working key (and especially after it was mentioned that re-using the previously programmed key sometimes will present an issue), and I'll end up having to bring it to the dealer after all. Would I need to buy a new SKIM, WIN, and/or ECM if all slots are full? I checked to make sure all the VINs match across all the modules. What happens if I delete all keys? Can I just re-program new ones or do I need to re-program the WCM itself first?

Here are my DTCs:

WCM - Wireless Control
Part no.: 05026329AC
Num of DTCs: 3
No. DTC code DTC status Description
1 B1A24 Stored Key Not Programmed
2 B1A26 Stored Maximum Number of Keys Programmed
3 B1A28 Stored ECM Mismatch with SKIM

Thanks for any and all responses.

If you delete all keys then you'd essentially have a "all keys lost" scenario.

Just saw your post. IF you haven't solve this issue I'll reach out to my contact during the day Fri whom I lean on when I have key issues as he's been doing it a minute longer than I. I'll see what he says.

You generally want someone who does this stuff regularly to be messing with it unless just "adding a key" which I have alot of specialty tooling I do that with.

Can't say it can or can't be done but coding may or may not be done as well if you delete all.

MY contact saved my ARSE the other night when I accidentally deleted all keys on a all keys lost on a 2003 Ford Excursion. We had to code the transponder chip in the key so the vehicle would recognize it.

I'll find out as this will be a learning lesson for me as well.



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Hi, thanks for your reply.

No, I haven't fixed this yet, but I did clear all WTC codes, restarted it with my one working transponder key, and no codes came back from the WCM. So I'm fairly certain the mismatch codes were from trying the unprogrammed cut key.

I received some other advice that I can try to clear all codes, then try to re-program my one working transponder key, and then adding another key with that software. I'm inclined to try that, but I think I'll do it in the dealer's parking lot, just in case, so I can avoid a tow if one is needed, lol. I did read that the VIN is hard-coded into a FOBIK or transmitter key, in what was once (maybe still is) a one-time/one VIN only use situation. I'm just not confident in the dealer being able to solve my issue at a reasonable price. If I try and mess up, it was going to cost me anyway, is my logic, so not much harm in trying.