ignition switch and a p0300 code

This is for my 2002 chevy trailblazer. Ok, first problem. I changed the ignition switch in my trailblazer. I would have assumed , ha ha, that the little gear wheel would have been set correctically . I was wrong and the first time it didn't work at all and I switched it some and it works but when the key is all the way off and out I can just push it a little and the battery light will come on so I make sure I don't push it that way and yet for some reason I keep having to get a jump. Battery was 9 mos old and O'Reily's tested it said it was bad so got a new one. Same thing. Could that ignition switch be off a tooth and causing the drain? I have also tried looking for help online for this and got nothing.
Then I got a flashing check engine light on my way home checked it got a p0300 code. Which I know is one of my coil packs cuz it happened not too long ago. Ok so how do you tell which one it is? I have moved away from my support system of friends and know absolutly no one here. And like everyone left in this world, I don't have the money for a shop. So I'm leaving it up to you guys to point me in a direction I can deal with. Thank you so much.

Yes, it's possible that you still don't have the ignition switch incorrectly aligned to the lock cylinder correctly. Usually when that happens, the key won't come out, either. But it's still possible to have it set up incorrectly.

Service info has a very specific sequence for installing the ignition switch and cylinder to ensure correct alignment. Follow it step by step. I got this link off a Google search:

f01.justanswer.com/JFN1/1254a870-44f6-40...a-6e324ede6019_1.pdf

With your misfire, we need to be clear - Does the engine have a dead misfire at idle? Or, does it only misfire under specific conditions?

Ok . All I can say is that at idle it is running rough . I don't know exactly what a dead miss sounds/feels like. You know, I have the 2 book service manual and I don't understand it . It frustrates me to no end. And I did change my switch , ignition , followed where it said the teeth/gears should be set and it is still doing the same thing. Could it be that the key cylinder (?) is worn? cuz there is slop in it. that slop is where the light comes on.

jsjj4x4 wrote:

Ok . All I can say is that at idle it is running rough . I don't know exactly what a dead miss sounds/feels like.

Usually you can tell a dead miss by unplugging a coil and listen for a engine rpm sound change. Unplug one at a time then plug in then unug again. If there is a miss no sound change will happen. If working correctly a sound change will happen. This is the low tech way.

A scope if I remember right can help pinpoint more, but that's out of my current area of expertise.

With A Scanner (not a Code reader) you can read the Miss fire Data. It will tell you witch cylinders are miss firing. I have ran into a few GM vehicles where if you scanned it Using "Vehicle specific" It will Show A p0300, Then while using "Global OBD2" you can get a specific cylinder code. The "un plugging" the coils dose not Work as good as un plugging a plug wire from an older Vehicle. (The PCM is very quick, the Results will be inconclusive)

I switched the switch . Still same thing. Double checked where the sprokets/teeth on gear should be set at and that was correct . BUT if it was to set at a spot would that spot be a place where the gear deal clicks into a spot? Because to me it should but the settings I am getting do not. BTW whomever uploaded the pics with steps Thank you. They were put to use . Next question ..... could the key cylinder itself be worn and sloppy? Before I can get to my engine problem I need to get off the battery bottle right?

A scanner isnt an option for me at this moment. I'm getting a little angry right now. Not because of you guys it's these people that freak out on you because you had to get a jump one to many times. It's like Hey I am not bothering you to do it am I ? Then I can't even wash my car because nobody here washes their own cars , they "have it done" I finally got a charger for my battery and after 15 mins theres a major meltdown in the neighborhood. I can't just take my car to a shop. I don't think I've ever had one in a shop. Percs of the poor, right?

jsjj4x4 wrote:

Ok . All I can say is that at idle it is running rough . I don't know exactly what a dead miss sounds/feels like.

OK, rough running at idle. We can work with that. A dead miss would be considered a cylinder that never contributes (fires) under any condition. Idle, cruising down the road, whatever.

I like the cylinder contribution test that was suggested earlier. Remove the air resonator from the top of the engine to get access to the ignition coils. With the engine idling, disconnect one coil at a time. Disconnecting a coil should result in the engine running noticeably worse. When you disconnect a coil and nothing changes, you're onto something.