2012 Mini Cooper Base No Start except with Starter Fluid

I am a DIYer with little experience but willing to tackle things. My daughter's manual base mini was losing power and misfiring
(according to her). She parked it and left it for almost 2 years when COVID started. I recently got the car, and apparently valve cover leaked into spark plug wells so I changed plugs, coils, valve cover gasket and battery. Still would very slowly crank with large voltage drain, so I was thinking starter or bad ground. I then tried spinning the crankshaft manually and it would not budge. Was concerned the engine seized until I stumbled across a ScannerDanner video of a Mini Cooper that similarly would not spin and he diagnosed it to be a seized alternator preventing the engine from spinning. Removed the belt, and my engine spun freely (thanks ScannerDanner!) so I replaced the alternator, belt and tensioner. Car now cranks and to my untrained ear sounds normal but won't start. I sprayed starter fluid in the intake and it started for a few seconds. Checked fuel pressure at the Schrader valve and it is zero. I thought it was the fuel pump or filter (which have not been changed in 120,000 miles) so changed those but still no pressure. I thought it might then be the non-replaceable relay in the JBE, so I removed the JBE and someone with a Mini installed the JBE in his mini and it ran fine so i ruled out the JBE. I don't hear the fuel pump run when I put the key in, but with my scan tool I can activate the pump and hear it running (still no fuel pressure). Perhaps one of the lines came off in the tank when I put the new pump in, but I am concerned that I don't hear the pump running when I put the ignition in the on position. I will look in the tank for a disconnected line also, but wondering if anyone with experience has any other thoughts. Thanks.

I wouldn't expect an electrically disconnected pump if the scanner can activate it. Does pressure build up while activating the pump with the scanner?

I wouldn't expect an electrical fault, either. If you go back to the pump, disconnect the fuel line and command the pump on, does fuel spit out? Do this safely, of course.

This does have the N16 engine, correct?

I had no pressure when I activated the pump and voltage drop was 0.3 on the positive and 0.07 on the ground. So I opened the tank and the black hose which I believe is the return line from the filter was disconnected from the pump. I reconnected it and put it back to together and it ran for 2 mins and then I heard a pop in the tank when I was revving it like the hose came off and then it died and no pressure.

Yes N16 engine. I must not be putting that black hose on correctly although I think that is a low pressure return hose but not sure. It just slips in. There is no locking connector.

Interesting. :blink: Do you know the part number of the pump you installed? It might help us get a better visual of the connection that's popping off.

It is a Pierburg fuel pump I bought from FCPEuro. The hose is the straight black hose that goes into the white connector area on the pump. This pump picture is of my original pump. The pierburg has 3 white prongs instead of 2. I attached a picture showing the black hose when this was out of the car.

This is the straight black hose.

Looks like this.

I could be way off, but I think that's the wrong pump? :huh: Pierburg P/N 16119810569 would appear to be for S or John Cooper Works models.

According to FCPEuro, P/N 16112755083 is the one you want:

Yes I checked my order and my part number ends in 5083 and is for the base N16

So finally what made the car start?

SamM wrote:

Yes I checked my order and my part number ends in 5083 and is for the base N16

I guess I misunderstood, then. Do 0569 and 5083 cross reference to each other?