Help us help you. By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms (no start, high idle, misfire etc.) Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily!
Cranks great when cold but after warm and sitting for some time it cranks long before actually starting. I suspect heat soak and possibly the fuel regulator in the tank allowing gas to drain back into the tank. From what I could find there is no fuel rail check valve on these - only a fuel pulsation damper. Anyone have experience with this issue?
I've not done a fuel pressure check yet.
It does start every time even when it takes some time.
Just recently over 100k and it lives in a hot climate but first time this issue has presented.
Does these pressurize the fuel system each time you go from off to koeo or just the first time? You can test the fuel going past the check valve by just cycling the key a few times before starting it hot. In my experience that usually happens on cold starts, when there is more time.
How are your fuel trms and coolant level?
I tend to think about cam/crank sensors too when I hear long cranks.
Aloha! This is a proxy key vehicle and I have tried the cycling method before starting it again when it is hot to no avail. When the engine is hot and it has sat for some time I get a long crank. Restarting a hot engine within 5-10 minutes I have not had the symptom of long crank. I've never had this symptom when the vehicle is cold. From the info I have access to in the FSM there is no check valve in the engine bay but rather a check valve in the tank attached to the fuel pump called a regulator. I have not been able to test the fuel pressure yet near the rail in the engine bay but hope to be able to do so tomorrow. I'll be performing several condition tests (cold/hot/immediate restarts cold and hot/etc) and a leak down pressure check.
Fuel trims read out fine and coolant level is on par.
I have not gone down the road of cam/crank sensors yet.
Does these pressurize the fuel system each time you go from off to koeo or just the first time? You can test the fuel going past the check valve by just cycling the key a few times before starting it hot. In my experience that usually happens on cold starts, when there is more time.
How are your fuel trms and coolant level?
I tend to think about cam/crank sensors too when I hear long cranks.
Fuel pressure checked as spec.
Fuel leak down test more or less passed. It did drop suddenly into the 30 PSI range then slowly leaked down to around 22 PSI but stayed above 21 PSI for the required 5 mins. Pressure ended around 15 PSI after a couple of hours. I believe this is in spec but the more I research this issue I find others stating the pressure remains above 25 or even 30 PSI after 5 minutes.
Toyotas' (at least this one) do not to push fuel to the rail when cycling the ACC(key) but not starting the car. In order to test the fuel pressure I had to manually activate the pump with my scanner.
I have confirmed that this long crank only happens on a hot restart after the vehicle has sat for at least 30 minutes.
I researched this even further this evening and it really seems all symptoms are pointing towards the fuel injection pressure regulator. This part is within the fuel pump assembly inside the tank and individually replaceable. Due to the vehicles age shouldn't the entire assembly of pump, filter, sender, and pressure regulator (which is sold separately) be replaced?
....or I start down the road of diag'ing other heat affected components like crank and cam sensor?
This turned out to be my initial suspicion of fuel regulator in the tank. I also replaced the fuel pump, fuel pump retainer ring, and o-ring. Please be prepared to cut that fuel pump retainer ring off the tank neck - there are no words to describe the aggravation that thing cause me even with proper Snap-on tools.
Hi… I have the same problem with my 2009 Highlander v6 same engine. Did you get rid of the long crank for good by replacing the entire fuel pump/regulator assembly?
