Re:Re:1999 Chevrolet Suburban 2500 Front Brakes

Hi guys, 

I am trying to replace the rotors and pads on my 4WD suburban. The four bolts that hold the hub bearing assembly  to the spindle are in super, super tight. I have applied PB blaster, tried getting them to move with a 24” breaker bar plus pipe for additional leverage, hit it with my 1/2 20v dewalt cordless impact (supposedly 400 ft lbs) and the things will not budge. I have used 1/2” drive Impact sockets with all tools. Nothing doing. I have also applied heat to metal surrounding bolt head, but all I have is a propane torch. Any ideas on how I can break these things loose? Thanks, Pop

Well I must ask why are you removing them to replace rotors and brake pads?

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The rotors and hub bearing are held together by the lug studs and both are bolted to the spindle on the 4WD Chevy trucks of this era. Of course you can remove the pads by simply removing the caliper but I am doing rotors also.

Really from behind the hub? I had a 99 suburban year ago and it had slip on rotors! I hated all those behind the hub rotor vehicle... at any bigger tools or more heat but if the bolts are any indicator the bearing will likely be froze in as well....

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Yes, the bolts are behind the hub, there are four of them. The 1500 Suburbans were not this way but the 2500 and 3500 were. Thanks.

Hey pop!
Sounds like a real nightmare.
Naturally, you can't heat the threaded part of the hub bearing because the rotor is in the way?
Heat, heat and more heat is the best advice I can give. Or snap them all and change the hubs & bolts while you're in there.

Maybe see if anyone you know can lend you a meaner cordless impact?

I actually really like Noah's idea. :lol: The bolts are pretty commonly available. I hate to give Dorman business, but it's probably your best bet:

www.amazon.com/Dorman-917-508-Bearing-Mo...Bolts/dp/B01ID3U2W6/

Yep they can't be tight if there a liquid just make sure to remove that CV axle.

Thank you all for your insights. I will remember your wisdom for another day. I have spent all the time I can in this job, and more, so I am going to pay my buddy, a pro tech, do it in his shop. Win some, lose some!

Thanks again for your input, guys. You are why this is the best automotive forum on the web, and I say that in all earnestness.