Re:Re:Re:Re:Re:Re:Help Help P0032 FIXED!!!!!

Tutti57 wrote: Have you done a visual inspection of the wires to make sure there isn't a short to ground on the power side somewhere that's causing that fuse to blow? Push and pull on the harness and all of that?

My bad, after working on the 02 sensor wiring (Checking short to power/ ground) i didnt duct tape the wires so i bet it was coming together as i drive. So thats the genesis of it, taped it now and am good.

Is it that warm there in the morning? I would expect the temps to be closer to each other, and near ambient.

Yes, am in Africa and i climate is mostly hot.

Did you have a p0128 before? If your thermostat isn't sticking open or your ECT sensor wonky, there may be a bulletin that addresses that code with an ECM update. I'm not 100% sure if it applies to that year though.

Yes, i often have that code but its goes itself.
I think my ECT is defective!

Do those temperatures change when it warms up to believable numbers?
Yes

Not sure if it could be tied to what scannerjohn was saying about the diode.

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scannerjohn wrote: Couple of things to start with that seem wrong. First you should not be blowing fuses on the O2 circuit. Somewhere along that wire it is touching to ground.

Second the engine temp is high. Is the temp where your at 100 degrees? Same goes for the intake air temp. Unless it HOT outside these temps should reflect ambient temps.

I know you asked more questions but these three must be fixed first.

Keep me posted.

Blowing fuse solved as i explained above

Oh k, i am in Africa and i our climate is mostly hot

Update

I have an old worn out ECT sensor lying around so i throw that part to replace my current one.
PCM/ECM started to enter Close loop smoothly without problems.
I think its a fix with having a good replacement to my ECT sensor.

But am still having higher fuel trims, feedback from the 02 sensor when monitoring
Wideband 5.11 volts constantly translation in stft 25% whiles ltft 9%

Is it the ECT sensor still?

Guys, God bless you for helping me with this.
SO much appreciated

Avoidance of doubt, the ECT fixed the close loop problem.

Great. Now that's working. High fuel trims at idle indicates a vacuum leak if the trims get better when you increase rpm. Increase rpm to 2500 and hold and see what trims do.

scannerjohn wrote: Great. Now that's working. High fuel trims at idle indicates a vacuum leak if the trims get better when you increase rpm. Increase rpm to 2500 and hold and see what trims do.

Am afraid it not totally fixed, close loop is working now btw.

I am still having P0032 trouble code.

Am confident the problem i have now is the signal wiring not grounding the 02 sensor, when i back probe it when engine is running; its still showing 13~14+ volts (Alternator running), engine off is 12 volts. It only drop to zero volt when 02 sensor is unplugged on KOEO.

Am confident is not short to power / ground because is will have still shown 12+volts even after unplugging 02 sensor.

Your thoughts?

Can i send a ground ONLY to the signal wire and monitor what happens observing it in obd scanner without problems?

Yes, this is what Chad was saying before. Koeo, use your test light to ground the signal wire and watch scan data.

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To be clear, I was referring to the heater control wire, and a bias voltage.

Oops, sorry, I forgot where we were at here. Did you ever do the test Chad mentioned though?

Do you have 12v on both heater wires with it plugged in?

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Matt T wrote:

Chad wrote: When the ECM energizes the Heater circuit, it applies a GROUND to the Heater control wire.

You know it's gettin' serious when we break out the crayons :silly:

According to SI it ain't that simple. Looks to be PWM control so you'll never measure 0V on the control wire. Also sounds like there is a shunt inside the ECM with voltage sensing upstream of it. That sensed voltage being too high is what pops the P0032. If the control wire isn't shorted to power ECM grounds would be the next thing to go after. After that are the replacement AFRs OEM or aftermarket?

I want to start exploring the ECM grounds for a possible fix, can you direct me ?

Tutti57 wrote: Oops, sorry, I forgot where we were at here. Did you ever do the test Chad mentioned though?

Do you have 12v on both heater wires with it plugged in?

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On sensor plug in
I have 12v on Heater power and Signal control wire

Mariowinax1 wrote:
On sensor plug in
I have 12v on Heater power and Signal control wire

Just to clear up some terminology, when referring to "Control" and "Signal", they are not the same thing. Think of these two terms from the PCM/ECM point of view. A "Control" is a PCM/ECM OUTput. The PCM sends OUT a command (to turn on the heater). A "Signal" is a PCM/ECM INput. The PCM receives an INput from a sensor (air/fuel ratio, in terms of voltage). I believe, you are referring to the heater CONTROL, not the sensor SIGNAL. Sorry to nit-pick. Just trying to avoid confusion.

The problem is in your heater control circuit. If you're 100 percent sure the 02 you're using is the correct one and you tested it then the problem lies within the circuit. You should have 12v on the control wire KOEO. As this is a pulse width modulated signal to pull down the voltage you will need a scope to check the signal. Using a volt meter will not work as it will show you the average voltage reading not the pulse and amps like you need to see. That circuit will have 12v at start up for about 10 seconds then start modulating. Their should not be more than 10amps. That's why your getting the P0032. At worse it's the ecm. Something is not grounding. Look at all other sensors and grounds that share that ground. Also check the relay that powers that R/B wire. A bad relay can be the problem. Sorry, I do not have more to offer. Good luck to you.

With all the issues you're having make sure you have a OEM O2 sensor as it's known out there with some brands that O2 sensors are a thing you want to stick close to OEM on. Learned alot about this in a update webinar with G truglia last fall.

Are you a TST member by chance? For $174 yr total , $75 TST membership fee & $99 for unlimited video access to video library @ TST website.

TST stands for Technician Service Training. People can work in the industry but if you're not doing annual training yearly throughout the year you're going to get left behind as vehicles, ways of doing things, etc change so keeping up to date is good.


Members also get discounted Live Webinars generally with PDF booklets to make notes or have to follow up with.

IF you go to the TST "Big Event"(Virtual This Year) you also get a discount being a member.

I also subscribe to Scannerdanner. There's so much to be learned with today's Advanced videos.


HE needs to watch some videos with pull down circuits and some with ground side switched circuits as well.

I watch and rewatch them and still at times, well um read to much into things. I'm more of a hands on person so at times I procrastinate more than I should because of this.

Love doing it though and wouldn't have it any other way.

Back to the O2 sensor I only replace with OEM or if they don't want it I charge them their diagnostic fee, put the crappy one in that they want cheap and tell them there's no warranty if it comes back for same condition if I swap the O2 circuit!

Like the good explanations, diagrams & added on drawings in here on this one.

That type of stuff is what helps me get into the right mind frame to understand things better if I haven't seen them in awhile.

Chad wrote:

Mariowinax1 wrote:
On sensor plug in
I have 12v on Heater power and Signal control wire

Just to clear up some terminology, when referring to "Control" and "Signal", they are not the same thing. Think of these two terms from the PCM/ECM point of view. A "Control" is a PCM/ECM OUTput. The PCM sends OUT a command (to turn on the heater). A "Signal" is a PCM/ECM INput. The PCM receives an INput from a sensor (air/fuel ratio, in terms of voltage). I believe, you are referring to the heater CONTROL, not the sensor SIGNAL. Sorry to nit-pick. Just trying to avoid confusion.

Yes, heater control wire i mean

scannerjohn wrote: The problem is in your heater control circuit. If you're 100 percent sure the 02 you're using is the correct one and you tested it then the problem lies within the circuit. You should have 12v on the control wire KOEO. As this is a pulse width modulated signal to pull down the voltage you will need a scope to check the signal. Using a volt meter will not work as it will show you the average voltage reading not the pulse and amps like you need to see. That circuit will have 12v at start up for about 10 seconds then start modulating. Their should not be more than 10amps. That's why your getting the P0032. At worse it's the ecm. Something is not grounding. Look at all other sensors and grounds that share that ground. Also check the relay that powers that R/B wire. A bad relay can be the problem. Sorry, I do not have more to offer. Good luck to you.

Thanks John

Will explore your inputs

Dtnel wrote: With all the issues you're having make sure you have a OEM O2 sensor as it's known out there with some brands that O2 sensors are a thing you want to stick close to OEM on. Learned alot about this in a update webinar with G truglia last fall.

Are you a TST member by chance? For $174 yr total , $75 TST membership fee & $99 for unlimited video access to video library @ TST website.

TST stands for Technician Service Training. People can work in the industry but if you're not doing annual training yearly throughout the year you're going to get left behind as vehicles, ways of doing things, etc change so keeping up to date is good.


Members also get discounted Live Webinars generally with PDF booklets to make notes or have to follow up with.

IF you go to the TST "Big Event"(Virtual This Year) you also get a discount being a member.

I also subscribe to Scannerdanner. There's so much to be learned with today's Advanced videos.


HE needs to watch some videos with pull down circuits and some with ground side switched circuits as well.

I watch and rewatch them and still at times, well um read to much into things. I'm more of a hands on person so at times I procrastinate more than I should because of this.

Love doing it though and wouldn't have it any other way.

Back to the O2 sensor I only replace with OEM or if they don't want it I charge them their diagnostic fee, put the crappy one in that they want cheap and tell them there's no warranty if it comes back for same condition if I swap the O2 circuit!

Like the good explanations, diagrams & added on drawings in here on this one.

That type of stuff is what helps me get into the right mind frame to understand things better if I haven't seen them in awhile.[/quote

Am convinced is not the 02 sensor, because when the sensor is unplugged, code cleared and car restarted.

Its still throws P0032 as the sensor is even unplugged!

#Update

Purchased new o2 sensor replaced it with the old one, still trouble code is still present!

Changed ECM to a different one, the new one is showing P0031 instead of P0032

Replaced my old ECM code returns to P0032.


Whew...

What's the part number on the sensor you just put in?

Did you verify wire integrity from the sensor to the ecm besides visual inspection on the ground side?



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Tutti57 wrote: What's the part number on the sensor you just put in?

Did you verify wire integrity from the sensor to the ecm besides visual inspection on the ground side?

Part number is 211200-7070

Sure, done that.

Remove the dedicated ground wire for the sensor, cleaned it and retighten it .


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Is that an o2 or a/f sensor? I don't have the diagram up right now, but doesn't the heater ground go from the sensor to the ecm?

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Its AFR sensor

Apart from power 12v from the IPDM to the sensor all other three is connected from and to ECM to 02 sensor

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