2010 Ford Escape Misfire and DTC C2849

Hello to the brain trust, hope everyone is doing well!

2010 Ford Escape with a 2.5L 4. My own daily driver. P0302 came along and did all the normal stuff, moved coil and injector to #4 hole, misfire stayed with #2.

Compression 190/145/185/190. (1/2/3/4)

Leakdown not conclusive ... gauge showed 22%, nothing glaringly tactile felt, no bubbles in surge tank, TB locked wide open and air cleaner removed, etc. Thought I felt some movement of air at exhaust, but not sure. Removed Tester manifold and applied full shop air (110 psi) to #2, no change to perceived air from tail pipe, just not sure, my shop is fairly drafty.

Oddly enough Alldata shows both compression and leakdown to be within standards, albeit barely. My common sense would tell me otherwise??

Also #2 TDC could have been slightly off. I set with a dial indicator, mostly handheld as no magnetic surface and nothing to clamp to with what I have.

Before I jump down the rabbit hole of pulling the head, I'd more than welcome input and advice. Particularly regarding the only other code C2849 ... I have no idea what this is, I haven't updated my old scan tool for some years, as I'm retired and in the market for a more useful tool. Googling turned up mostly confusion and 8 or 9 different definitions. Some of the results did refer to the CKP sensor which could make sense as it doubles as the misfire counter ... Please advise...

Thank you very, very much!!!

P.S.: The C2849 seems permanently pending and I'm unable to erase with my antique Innova tool.

c2849 from what i found is associated with the engine oil temp sensor malfunctioning.

as for the misfire did you check sparkplug or wiring to the number two cylinder coil?

Yes and thank you!!
Changed all the plugs just for grins, OEM Motorcraft from the dealer. (They were cheaper than NAPA:))
Wires to the COP are supplying what they should...

Kenworthconvert wrote: Compression 190/145/185/190. (1/2/3/4)

Leakdown not conclusive ... gauge showed 22%, nothing glaringly tactile felt, no bubbles in surge tank, TB locked wide open and air cleaner removed, etc. Thought I felt some movement of air at exhaust, but not sure. Removed Tester manifold and applied full shop air (110 psi) to #2, no change to perceived air from tail pipe, just not sure, my shop is fairly drafty.

Oddly enough Alldata shows both compression and leakdown to be within standards, albeit barely. My common sense would tell me otherwise??

Also #2 TDC could have been slightly off. I set with a dial indicator, mostly handheld as no magnetic surface and nothing to clamp to with what I have.

145psi might be "in spec" but it being over 20% lower than the other three holes isn't.

20% leakdown is considered borderline acceptable if it's going past the rings, but if it's a valve that's a problem. Blocking and unblocking the tailpipe with the palm of your hand might help you figure out whether you've really got a leak into the exhaust.

IME the cylinder doesn't need to be dead nuts TDC for an accurate leakdown test. Just makes it easier because you don't have to hold the engine with a breaker bar.

Matt T wrote:

Kenworthconvert wrote: Compression 190/145/185/190. (1/2/3/4)

Leakdown not conclusive ... gauge showed 22%, nothing glaringly tactile felt, no bubbles in surge tank, TB locked wide open and air cleaner removed, etc. Thought I felt some movement of air at exhaust, but not sure. Removed Tester manifold and applied full shop air (110 psi) to #2, no change to perceived air from tail pipe, just not sure, my shop is fairly drafty.

Oddly enough Alldata shows both compression and leakdown to be within standards, albeit barely. My common sense would tell me otherwise??

Also #2 TDC could have been slightly off. I set with a dial indicator, mostly handheld as no magnetic surface and nothing to clamp to with what I have.

145psi might be "in spec" but it being over 20% lower than the other three holes isn't.

20% leakdown is considered borderline acceptable if it's going past the rings, but if it's a valve that's a problem. Blocking and unblocking the tailpipe with the palm of your hand might help you figure out whether you've really got a leak into the exhaust.

IME the cylinder doesn't need to be dead nuts TDC for an accurate leakdown test. Just makes it easier because you don't have to hold the engine with a breaker bar.

Thank you very much, that was good advice!!!

Plugged the tailpipe with an inflatable testball , applied air while I made a sandwich, shut off the air and deflated the testball, which went to the end of its safety tether very quickly:)

Clearly an exhaust valve issue ... guess I'll be pulling the head and visiting my buddy at the machine shop.

Thank you again for your common sense advice, the weird code C2849 which neither my antique scan tool, nor my Alldata subscription recognizes, just gave me doubts that I had not fully explored all of the possible weird things associated with VVT ...

I forgot one of my cardinal rules: " When you hear the thunder of hoofbeats, think horses, not Zebras" ...

Thanks again!!

Problem Fixed.

Sorry folks, it's been a while but thought I should post how I fixed this problem a while ago.

Had planned to remove the head but after removing the valve cover decided to measure the clearance from cam lobes to bucket lifters for each cylinder. All the intake valves were in spec, number 2  exhaust valves were way out of normal ... (0.006 and 0.003) ... swapped buckets with # 4 which had excessive clearance, I.E 3.422mm buckets for 3.205mm, ... put it all back together and runs great, no MIL or misfire codes.

I think I will do it again, as i now have a selection of sizes from Ford and Mazda to work with. (just doing the clearance math on a spread sheet), as I can hear and feel a slight anomaly, even though no misfire codes for last few months.

Hesitating only because it's a ton of labor with the keyless timing held together by diamond friction washers ... deathly afraid of messing the timing up every time I pull a camshaft.... Follow the alldata procedures carefully ... you must have the timing peg and bar and use it properly!!!

Otherwise, piece of cake fix, if you're old and retired like me

I should be better at writing and multi tasking. I should have commented that there is obviously a worn valve or seat involved, which prevented the exhaust valve(s) (I think just one) from completely closing, hence the low compression causing the original misfire.
Compression is now 190 - 178 - 192 - 190 ... still not perfect, but acceptable ...
It's a get you by repair, this has been a very reliable vehicle for a bunch of years and I wouldn't hesitate to drive it anywhere ... I would pull the head and send it out to my favorite machine shop if I was planning to do that, however I'm in the market for a new Diesel Colorado (which are hard to find) and just needed to turn the MIL off so I can use as a trade in.