2011 Jeep Wrangler

2011 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Unlimited 3.8L Engine
The only tools I have to check with is a multimeter, light tester, and cheap code reader. I have a good 3/4 inch long spark coming from one of the towers on the coil while cranking. I have rented a fuel pressure gauge and noid lights. Fuel pressure is 58 and noid light showed all 6 injector signals firing properly while cranking the Engine.
I have a Crank, no start situation. Actually if you leave it sitting for about 24 hours it seems to start but runs only for a second or two.
P0340 Camshaft circuit is the code I am getting. When I test the cam sensor it works flawlessly moving a chisel back and forth in front of it 20 times in a row with key on not attempting to crank it. Feed, ground, signal all give perfect voltage on the cam sensor. Ive watched many ScannerDanner Videos and know that on a Chrysler the Crank sensor could be causing the Cam Code. SO, checking the Crank Sensor, key on, not attempting to crank the engine, feed and ground voltage is normal but on signal wire when moving the chisel to and from the sensor this is what happens. Touching the chisel to end of sensor moves volts to 0 like its supposed to and moving chisel away from sensor gives 5 volts. But, after about 3-5 times when you touch the chisel back to the sensor now the volts read 5 instead of 0 and when you move the chisel away the volts drop to 0 and this goes on for 3-5 tries and then it goes back to the the other way touching the chisel at the end of the sensor cause volts to go to 0 like its supposed to and moving it away causes volts to go to 5 like its supposed to. And I might also add in all this erratic action the voltage may not immediately change when the chisel is touched or move away, it may take a second or third movement of the chisel to get the voltage to change, but then this seems to also be the time when the readings flip from 0 -5, 5 -0, 0 -5, 5-0, ect. In other words sometimes the chisel has no effect on changing the volts either up or down. Its like the volts is stuck in place not changing. But when it does finally change again this seems to be when the flip in volts occurs.There is a RPM reading on the Tachometer when you attempt to start the Vehicle. Also Ive taken readings from the Crank Sensor while attempting to crank the Vehicle. Feed and ground voltage give normal readings. Signal gives an average of about 2.5 volts which is wrong from watching a ScannerDanner Video. The average of the signal should be no more than about 600-800 millivolts. So with the Engine Cranking, the crank sensor gives the same erratic numbers on the signal wire as it does when I'm using the chisel. I need a direction. I feel like if my crank signal wire readings were normal the thing would start right up and stay running. Because I feel like the number one answer is going to be a faulty crank sensor I need to mention that I have bought 2 already and made sure to buy a different Brand on the 2nd one. I have 3 crank sensors altogether including the one that was already in the Jeep. What could be causing my erratic CRANKSHAFT Signal wire issue, other than the sensor itself?

Does it start on alternative fuel?
If you have spark and injector pulse the entire time it's cranking that points away from an input issue with the CKP or CMP.

The results of your CKP test are curious, but I've honestly never tested one like that. I have however seen 2 aftermarket crank sensors that weren't good enough for a Jeep, a Mopar CKP fixed that one.

No Sir, spraying carburetor cleaner down the brake power booster hose has no effect on it starting. I would like to change my original post, and say that after the 24 hour period, the engine will start for maybe 4-6 seconds before is shuts off instead of just 1-2 like I originally said.
Two direct questions I have at this point:
1. Should the crank sensor have any voltage going to the feed or signal with the key off?
2. I have never heard ScannerDanner talk about having to us his scanner machine and make certain sensors get relearned...Could that be my problem with my erratic crank signal readings?

Can you verify if the fuel is clean, fresh, and not too high of ethanol content? I see a lot of "Crank-no-start" situations caused by junk fuel. I realize introducing an external fuel source should eliminate the possibility of contaminated fuel, but if the spark plugs are soaked in fuel they will continue to not fire. You might try pulling a spark plug to see if its wet with fuel. Sometimes I have to pull the plugs and dry them off before continuing any more start attempts/diagnostics.

I had already pulled all the plugs to check/clean them.

You stated it would start and run after sitting for 24 hrs. Does it run well? Or does it run rough and jerky? The reason I ask is this may determine if compression is an issue or not. If it runs smooth for 5 seconds then dies, that makes me think everything mechanically is ok for the most part. If it starts and fires in coughs and fits, makes me think a compression test could be in order.

Runs smooth

I believe the whole problem revolves around the erratic signal from the crank sensor. I cant believe I would have to buy 3 to 6 sensors to get one good one. I cant believe Mopar's sensor is built/made any differently/better than NTK or Standard brand. If no one comes up with a wiring, ground, voltage issue that could be causing my problem I guess I'll try another sensor.

For electronic parts, I always try to go with OEM. I've had way too many issues with aftermarket stuff.

Brand new mopar crank sensor and no change whatsoever.

Do you get an rpm reading while cranking?

It cranks for about 3-5 seconds with no rpms on tach. Then it starts and runs for about 2-3 seconds and dies. When it starts for that brief time there is rpms on tach

Should the crank sensor have any voltage going to the reference or signal wires with key OFF?