Help us help you. By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms (no start, high idle, misfire etc.) Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily!
I have a 2011 Ford Escape XLT (2WD auto with the 3.0 V6) that has just over 170,000 miles on it. My wife and I have been experiencing a surge from the engine at idle or upon deceleration. This also happens when starting the vehicle for the first time in the morning, and outside temperature doesn't seem to have any effect. It will typically surge from 800 rpm to around 1200 rpm and will often surge twice before idle returns to normal.
The fuel delivery module was replaced about two years ago at a dealership per the 16S41 recall, and we have had an intermittent long crank condition since then. The EGR valve was replaced by a local shop in June of 2019 when we brought the car in for a check engine light, and the AC condenser was replaced in August of this year. I replaced the spark plugs and upper intake manifold gasket in early September, along with an oil change and fluid check all the way around.
I'm going to take the throttle body off to clean it thoroughly today, but it wasn't dirty when I removed it for the plugs. I have a check engine light intermittently, but I can't get it to the parts store without the light going off before I get there. I also don't have a way to check fuel trim just yet - I'll be checking out the diagnostic tools section of the forum later this afternoon to get more info...
I used Danner's water bottle method to check for intake/vacuum leaks with no success. I'll check back in once the throttle body is clean. Thanks for getting back to me so quickly!
Sorry for the delay on updates.. I was able to scan the vehicle and came up with three PO400 (EGR) codes. We had the EGR valve replaced by a local mechanic about a year ago and then started having the long crank times.
I have a multimeter, a test light and access to a low level scan tool that has freeze frame data and fuel trim numbers. Now that the throttle body is clean and I still can't find any source of vacuum leak, which direction do you suggest?
Look at the maf/iat data pid in graph mode if available those maf/iat sensors have issues with the signal droping out to -40 iat and 0 g/s maf while running and not setting a code causing a stall. The other thing is if its a v6 make sure wiring harness to front coils is on correctly as your cats could be getting plugged. I am dealing with a current vehicle ie its evil twin mazda tribute. Aka subdivision of ford.
Okay.. I have more info, along with more symptoms.
This may be unrelated, but the key needs to be cycled several times (sometimes more than 10 times!) from OFF to RUN in order for the engine to actually crank. I have power, just no response from the ignition switch. The battery measured 12.58 V and 14.5 V with the engine running.
Here are links to videos of the live data; short and long term fuel trim as well as MAF and IAT
Ok with that scanner you have the option to graph the data so when engine ia cold before starting get scanner setup to graph iat and maf then turn key on and start motor. If it glitches they tend to do it when first starting up on warm up. If no glitching then i would look at idle air controller. Also check that the front (closest to radiator) spark pluge coil harness is routed correctly. As it has negative fuel trims (although not real bad looking). I would also recommend looking at the vacuum hose that comes off the intake that is 5/8 inch in size and make sure the flex points are sealing as this can mask a possible rich condition (stuck fuel injector/ o2 sensor reporting lean but not actually)
To check o2 ssnsors upstream o2 sensors should fluctuate between 800 and 100 mv at a minimum of 3 times in 5 seconds (you will want to graph these after maf test if no drop out happens.) Then while graphing unplug a vacuum line at the middle rear of intake and watch both upstream o2 they should drop to or below 100 mv and then pcm will start correcting shortly after that. Then reconnect vac hose and let system self correct. Once that is done take propane or a aerosol can of carb cleaner and spray into a smal vac port in same location and watch o2 climb to or above 850 mv. It will return to switching from 800 to 100 mv fairly quickly after reattaching vac port. If both upstreams do this as described your upstreams are ok. If the flat line, react slowly or fail to react then that sensor needs replaced.
The downstream sensors (the ones after each converter will act differently. When warmed up they will stay around 740 mv. When spraying carb cleaner in vac port it will climb to 850 mv and then return to 740 mv after a bit. When unplugging vac port for the lean test they will drop to 100mv or less and when reconnected return to 740 mv. If they are stuck below 100 mv and barely move or stuck high they will need replaced.
If downstream o2 sensors fluctuate like upstream ones you have a problem with catalytic converters not doing there job.
If these look ok then iac, ect sensor or injectors will need to be looked at next.
You will want to look for black soot around each exhaust manifold (the back bank tends to crack near the alternator at #1 cyl.
Archer wrote: This may be unrelated, but the key needs to be cycled several times (sometimes more than 10 times!) from OFF to RUN in order for the engine to actually crank. I have power, just no response from the ignition switch.
To be clear, you're saying that if you turn the key to CRANK the engine does not crank? And that it takes several cycles to make it crank?
If so, I'd suspect that your ignition lock housing is worn out, preventing the key cylinder from turning the ignition switch all the way to CRANK. They sell the Motorcraft part on Amazon with Prime delivery. :lol:
Unrelated to your surging/stalling, IMO. A work lock housing won't cause problems other than the cranking issue.
I finally had a chance to get the car in the air for a proper inspection. I see a lot of black soot around the exhaust manifold at cylinder #1. Is this typically a gasket issue, or worse?
