What are these Ign.scope views are telling?

4Runner 1995 A/T 2X 3VZ-E engine
engine does not run well a any speed
Fuel pressure 39 psi with regulator, 39 with it on.
New plugs, wires, distributor, coil, igniter, injectors
Idles bad at 850 rpm, real missing a lot somewhere between 2000 and 1400 rpm
runs better at approx 3000 rpm
Starts easier if cold. after a long warmup, slows its rpm and misses even more until it quit with some kind of backfiring (gentle)
Makes no difference at any time of the paper clip is on or off on the Engine Connector
Exhaust recirc valve vacuum disconnected now, and inspected a few weeks ago and did seems to move up and down closing well with easy.
Timing belt checked recently
Knock sensor new mounted temporarily on one of the engine lifting ears.

What do these HV Ignition are telling, I have no clue.?????

The scope used was: Pico 2205A with HT-25 probe right at each cylinder HV wire. Engine on fast idle, approx 900rpm Chanel B
For some of the cylinders I had to change the voltage setting because it needed just a touch higher.
Thanks

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Batiscafo wrote: What do these HV Ignition are telling, I have no clue.?????

Your time base is WAY too fast. You are set on a time scale of 2µs/Div. (Circled in RED). Try slowing it down to 1ms/Div. Also, increase your sample rate (Circled in BLUE).

When it's misfiring turn it off and check the spark plugs. Are they all the same colour or is only one or two different. It helps to establish whether it is a "global" problem or limited to a few cylinders.

Thank, I will do today. Yesterday I blocked the EGR and run perfect on idle until it warmed up.
What would cause this?
It idles very well until a full warm up, then starts to miss, lower rpm and quits with one big bang that I think was on the exhaust side
??
Thanks

Well, a good lesson learnt today really like your bottom quote the one above by Chad. Good reading early in the morning, will see if I can apply both.
Thanks

Just posed for a while and looking at the attached schematic that I think that maybe a good strategy would be to check the performance of the:

air temperature sensor
EGR tempt.sensor
engine coolant temp sensor

Since the engine runs very well on cool idle but quits when hot

The only strategy I can think for that would be just take the scope hooked at at the ECM from cold to hot (have only two channels and one 20X att enuator.

Any other ideas?

Why would be the timing(spacing) be different if the engine is more or less running at a "constant" speed for the ppurpose of on firing to the next?
See pics below.
Thanks

Desmond:, Thanks. I did and the six plugs were loaded with back stuff that I then interpret it as that it is a general problem.
Also checked the Volts at the ECM for the coolant sensor and it was out of wack, so got a new one and will install today.
Since I cannot measure exhaust and was running crappy I "assume"(bad thing) it was running lean, but I goofed also because i try hot with a little propane and did not improve, which should have told me that was running reach.
Another assumption: since it was running very rich probably the O2 sensors were max out and maybe even fouled by this time.
As soon as I get the plugs in, I will try the scope on the O2, but really I do not know what the chart would look like. I will have to research what would be a typical O2.