Help us help you. By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms (no start, high idle, misfire etc.) Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily!
Well, I started off with 4 codes showing up and after putting in new plugs, wires, thermostat, EVAP vent solenoid and upstream O2 sensor, I've got them all under control. Kind of. My P0053 code keeps showing back up pretty much immediately in the pending codes after I clear the computer.
I replaced the sensor assuming that was the issue, yet that doesn't seem to have fixed it. When I look at my live data, the voltage of that sensor is going between .185 and .780, which appears to be within range. Also, the short term fuel trim is at 0 with an occasional dip to -1%.
I guess my question is, what would be causing this code to throw if the live data seems to be in line where it should. I wasn't sure what else would cause this code to go off. I have to admit, I'm new to the troubleshooting of O2 sensors as every time I've ever had a code for one, simply replacing the sensor solved the issue. Thanks for the help!
This code just means resistance check of sensor failed the set parameter. So you will need to ohm test the wiring end to end going to sensor from pcm. Those wires should read 0 ohms. Note which wires have a resistance reading and check if any of those feed the o2 heater circuit. Check fuses for o2 heaters in the under hood fuse box. Then ohm test o2 heater part of the o2 sensor. Then compare that to the information you will find with the link i provided in last post. If its out of range it will need replaced. If it is a new sensor it may be defective. also off brands of o2 sensors have more issues than oem manufacture o2s. So keep that in mind.
Well I got home and checked the fuse. It checked out alright. I reset the code and did a drive cycle. That caused a P0030 code to show up in pending. I tried checking the plug for resistance and wasn't having any luck. I think what I'm going to do at this point is just drive it for awhile and see what happens. That might give me a little time to reset too!
Well, I did some more testing and discovered I had 12v to the heater positive and the resistance between the 2 heater wires was 6 ohms. I inspected the plug and it didn't seem like one of the pins was as it should be. So, I decided to exchange the sensor for a new one and that solved the issue! The car has now passed all of the I/M tests since and everything is good to go.
Again, I appreciate all of the ideas and assistance. It is all much appreciated!
