2005 Honda Accord 3.0l No Start

Hey everyone,

I hit a dead end with this car. The car was leaking coolant and got low and overheated and became a no start. Diagnosing it I found no codes stored, good spark (only missing control on number 6 coil), good fuel pressure (55psi at rail), good crank and cam signals, good timing, compression was low. Got heads and valves machined. Installed - still a no start. double, triple checked everything. Good compression now, timing is good. Used a scope for crank and cam correlation - its spot on. Spark is good except cyl. 6, exhaust and intake isn't restricted, fuel pressure is good and has injection pulse. Tried new crank and cam sensors. Still no codes stored or temporary. Checked all powers and grounds at ECM. Got a used ECM - programmed, still no control on coil number 6 - checking right at ECM and still a no start. Immobilizer is normal, Crank spins in the correct direction. What else could it be?

Made a video for viewing.

I would check yours ground connections on engine block make sure you tightened them all. Especially the one where ground wires bolts to as that is the ground for the sensors. so wiggle the wires and see if they are loose. As for the control wire ohm test the wire from pcm to the icm connector as well as the ground and power wire and load test them with a lightbulb.

Also did you do the anti theft relearn?

Can you get some screen shots of the following data pids

Iat
ect
Tps
Map
Maf
App
Ambient air temp when checking these along with the altitude your are at.

Those engines are pretty robust. The only time I've ever seen one not start was due to poor/incorrect fuel.
If you disable the fuel system will it fire on starting fluid?
How do the plugs look?

Sorry for getting back so late. I kept trying different things and I narrowed it down to the crank sensor. Its acting very strange. Watch the video and give me your best solution.

You need to plug the black lead into ckp ground (terminal 1) and yellow into ckp signal (terminal 2) this might be the problem with the scope reading. What is the green plugged into

I had the black lead on the engine ground and a test light on the sensor ground wire to test sensor ground integrity. Green lead on sensor supply (12v supply) and yellow on signal wire.

Cam sensor gives a normal square wave with those scope settings. I can take the sensor off and wave a screwdriver in front of it and it produces a square wave. But when it's on the car, it works a little bit and then does that.

If you have consistent spark and injector pulse, and RPM on the scan tool, I wouldn't invest any more time into the crank sensor.


Your first video shows a good signal, the second video is hard to see the scope screen while you are cranking the engine.

You could try a relative compression test (or in cylinder if you have the tools) with a sync on #1 ignition coil control to prove the coils are firing @ or near TDC compression to prove CKP signal and timing are correct and that the reluctor wheel on the crank shaft isn't misclocked (unlikely given the key way) or otherwise damaged.

Does it at least try to fire with starting fluid and dry plugs?