1994 corolla 1.6 no start DTC 14

My 1994 corolla won’t start and I checked the code which was a 14. I changed the ignition coil since it was reading ohms erratic and the it hit zero. I’ve had a problem of low current (ie low voltage at the fuel pump and low on the dizzy) and wanted to know if the engine fuse box should have ground because it does have power. I’ve checked connectors that follow the path of the distributor like the thermostat housing connector and it has 12v but the distributor only has .70 v twice and 5v(ecu probably) and growing which I saw 0.00 so I’m thinking I have bad wiring. Any guidance is truly appreciated. FYI it’s now difficult to put the key in the ignition, like it’s jammed.

A code 14 on this vehicle is set when there are no IGF signals back to the ECM for 4 consecutive IGT signals from the PCM. The Igniter is responsible for sending the IGF signal back to the ECM to confirm that the primary current to the ignition coil was interrupted. This is 'usually' because the Igniter has failed.

A scope would make quick work to check for a 5v square wave from the IGT wire while cranking the engine. This would prove it's wiring integrity, and that the ECM is receiving Crank and Cam Angle Sensor inputs.

If there is a 5v square wave on the Brown IGT wire, and no 5v square wave on the brown-yellow IGF, it is most likely the fault of the Igniter; so long as this wire is not shorted to ground or voltage.

The Ignition Coil is not your issue in this scenario.




Without a scope, you'll need an incandescent test lamp, some t-pins, and a voltmeter.

Set the voltmeter to read volts on the brown-yellow IGF wire. Put a t-pin or back probe in the brown IGT wire, test lamp to Ground, and repeatedly tapping the t-pin(Use caution as this may fire the ignition coil), there should be some change in voltage on the IGF wire ( max/min function might work well here). No voltage level change means that the Igniter is faulty.

Weycraze wrote: A code 14 on this vehicle is set when there are no IGF signals back to the ECM for 4 consecutive IGT signals from the PCM. The Igniter is responsible for sending the IGF signal back to the ECM to confirm that the primary current to the ignition coil was interrupted. This is 'usually' because the Igniter has failed.


If there is a 5v square wave on the Brown IGT wire, and no 5v square wave on the brown-yellow IGF, it is most likely the fault of the Igniter; so long as this wire is not shorted to ground or voltage.

The Ignition Coil is not your issue in this scenario.

I dare to disagree

In this scenario it could well be a coil problem. There are two possible ways the IGF signal is created, on older systems the counter electromotive force generated by the collapsing field in the primary is used. The other method watches out for (sufficient) current flow through the primary circuit. Either way, an open primary coil will cause the IGF signal not to be generated. Easy enough to measure primary resistance.

I would be concerned about the low curent/voltage at the distribuitor.......

Well it has less then a year with a new dizzy and recently changed the ignition coil (sorry for being desperate) but I had unplugged the dizzy and the thermostat housing plug and also the air box sensor since they all are in the same section of the dizzy and the plugs show 12v except the one for the dizzy FYI the dizzy plug has .70 v but it does have the 5v ref.

8 month old dizzy and new ignition coil (sorry for parts changing) what I’ve noticed is when I unplug the dizzy it has 6 wires and one reads 5v and the others read .70 v but other plugs following the same path of the dizzy has 12v like the thermostat housing plug right under the dizzy and the air box plug. I need to figure out the ignition path way to see if it’s shorted