2005 Durango 5.7 crank no start

Hello,

I picked up a 2005 Hemi Durango 4wd with a crank no start condition. It's sat for about 9 months, so I drained the fuel and added fresh fuel, bled the fuel lines. It originally had a P0320 crank sensor code. I replaced the crank sensor and still no start. I've checked fuses, replaced all spark plugs, checked compression, spark, fuel pressure is good, I pulled the #2 fuel injector connector and am getting injector signal. I even pulled the fuel rail and check for injector spray, they are fine. I'm getting RPM signal on the dash. I've even changed cam sensor as a recommendation from another mechanic friend. Still no start.

I checked with ohm meter for signal pulse on cam and crank sensor signal feed by back probing and am seeing a 5 v pulse on both.

Ideas ?

I've been reading about possible shorted sensors, saw 1 post about the speed sensor shorting and thought my next steps might be to start disconnecting sensors and see what that affects.

That sounds like a good one. Any more trouble codes popping up?
A couple things come to mind....
Jumped timing for one, maybe a stretched chain. If you could scope the cam and crank signals, someone might have a known good to compare it to.
This brings me to a question

I checked with ohm meter for signal pulse on cam and crank sensor signal feed by back probing and am seeing a 5 v pulse on both.

I'm assuming you're referring to a multimeter and not specifically an ohm meter? I'm only asking because checking these signals with a multimeter can be tricky. You'd most likely not see 5v, then 0v followed by 5v.
A flooded engine or fouled plugs. How did they look when you had them out for compression testing?
A bad ECT input could potentially flood the engine.
A plugged exhaust
If you're thinking shorted sensor, start by measuring for 5v on an easy to reach 3 wire sensor. If the reference voltage is low, then you can start unplugging sensors to see if it comes back. A shorted 5v reference circuit would most likely result in a no communication, and probably a no spark, no injector pulse.

Only other code that popped up was the ACT sensor when I had the air cleaner off and it was unplugged. I removed the sensor from the air cleaner and reconnected it then cleared the code.

I thought about the possibility of jumped timing, spoke to an engine builder buddy of mine and he hasn't had any Hemi's jump time, doesn't mean it's not the culprit though and I am leaning that way. Guess it's time to take apart the front of the engine and check timing.

I said ohm meter (I'm old school) but of course it was a multimeter (Fluke 77). It has an analog bar graph display so I could see the signal transition from +5v to 0 and back again. I checked for +5v signal and reference ground on both cam and crank sensor, they are both present and steady.

This has been a problem ever since I got this vehicle, so not flooded. As I said, I replaced the plugs and checked for spark. Spark is present.
Old plugs looked normal but worn out.

I can check the ECT and the exhaust. Thanks for these suggestions.

It will almost act like it will start sometimes if I hold the pedal down, but never does. I can hear the difference in the exhaust note while cranking with closed throttle and open throttle.

I'm with Noah
If spark, fuel and compression have been verified.
Check for a restricted exhaust
Check for a timing chain issue

For the exhaust test, just remove the upstream O2 sensors and see if it will start
As for the timing, it would definitely be helpful to get a scope waveform of the cam and crank. I would hate to see you rip that timing cover off for no reason.

You said it originally had a cam code right? Is that code continuing to come back?

That's a cool feature of that meter, otherwise you may not be able to see the signals.
I can't recall having seen a pushrod motor jump time so bad it wouldn't start, but i guess it's not impossible.
5v ref seems good, so we can probably look away from a shorted sensor.
Sometimes on a hard start or no start I'll make a vacuum leak and see if it starts. Thinking it could have a hard time breathing through the iac, but you say you can hear a difference when cranking with the throttle open...
Also maybe a wide open egr valve...

If you can check live data, when cold, the intake air temp and engine coolant temp should be very close if not identical...

Just throwing some thoughts out there...

I'm with Noah and Paul here, sounds like a breathing problem.

Another option is doing a cranking vacuum test with a good ol' vacuum gauge. It's not very often that this test is valuable, but it might help in your situation. Especially since it sounds like you have everything necessary to run.

You're looking for a few inHg during steady cranking, without you stepping on the throttle. Pressure would indicate a possible exhaust restriction or timing issue, while excessive vacuum would indicate an intake restriction. You can also do the same thing with graphed scan data and the MAP sensor data PID.

Found it! My gut kept saying timing and after the basics looked ok, I tore the timing cover off. Timing chain looked normal. I took the cam bolt out and pulled the gear. Found the timing pin sheared. Was about 150 degrees off and had spun several times. Drilled the pin out nd will replace timing set, tensioner, oil pump, etc. Going back together. Thank you all. Will post back once it's started and running.

goo.gl/photos/2NdFGxTUEKb1oSHg7

Wow, honestly didn't expect to hear that, lol. I would have expected a jumped chain before a sheared sprocket pin.

Glad you found it, sir! Let us know howhat it runs when it's all back together.

Nice find, had to be something along those lines.