2015 Hyundai Elantra SE could not complete FUEL monitor in emission cycle.

Bought this car with a bad tranny. After tranny was replaced, car is driveable but I could never get the emission cycle completed. FUEL monitor should be the first to set but it doesn't even all others are set. There is no code no CEL. I have an autel MS906BT and I did the reset on the engine and tranny (also adaptation mode, but failed to complete, on tranny) but still no go. The tranny does jerk after 5-10 miles of driving after tranny reset but that is another issue. Now I really need to complete the emission cycle to get the smog check passed.

A reflash of the ECM and TCM or all modules? Done by dealer only? Any indy shop can do hyundai reflash in San Francisco Bay area?



Air fuel ratio sensor going out but has not thrown a code?



What does it take for the FUEL monitor to complete? Fuel trims are near zero at idle or rev up.

Can you post the Mode $06 data associated with the Fuel System monitor? Knowning the TID and MID will allow you (and others) to reference service info and find out what the test criteria is. While you're there, see what the Mode $09 In Use Performance Tracking has to say about how many times it has tried to run this monitor.

While we're talking about criteria, what is the fuel level? If it's less than 15% or more than 85%, adjust it as needed and retry.

I figure you had the battery disconnected doing the transmission replacement, right? Even so, I'd still try disconnecting both cable ends and shorting them together for awhile.

Whether or not an indy shop will be able to do the reflash will depend on the tooling they have available. A J2534 box will be required, if OE tooling isn't available. The Drew Tech RAP is also capable. Call around and see who's game. Actually doing the programming itself is pretty straightforward. :silly: I wish all makes were as easy.

Let me hook up the charger on to the battery, connect the autel to OBD port and connect auto to wifi, run Teamviewer and provide the login and pwd so that you (or any professional) can remote in to run the autel to pull any data.
Give me 15 mins.

Tyler, please text me at 510-441-7444 and I will provide teamviewer ID and password. Thanks in advance.

I'm away from a computer right now, working off my phone.

Getting Mode $06 and Mode $09 data should be pretty easy with the Autel. It'll be available under the OBD/EOBD option in the vehicle selection screen. Hitting the Mode $06 button should query all TID's and generate a list of all monitor results. Should allow you to save screenshots or a PDF.

I'm not positive how to navigate to In Use Performance Tracking data on the Autel. It'll be under Mode $09 somewhere, along with the VIN, Calibration ID and Calibration Verification Number. The actual data will look something like this:

Could not see any $06 on any page. I am in the OBD section.



Inside IUPR?



I had the battery disconnected and positive negative cables shorted out.
I just filled up the tank yesterday. It was empty. Now it is full.
The car is Key on Engine off now.

Any expert who can help out feel free to text me to teamviewer in.

Mode $06 will be under the 'On-Board Monitor' button. Autel doesn't make that very clear.

IUPR (In Use Performance Ratio) is just doing the math for you between the completion counts, and the conditions encountered counts.

If you scroll down on the IUPT screen, does Fuel System show up anywhere? We know that the completion count should be zero, but I'm mostly curious about the conditions encountered count.

The fuel level being empty, and now full, may have a lot to do with your troubles. Once it gets down to around 3/4 tank, I'd start watching the monitors again.

On board monitor button not supported:


No, I don't see Fuel System in the IUPR screen:


Tank has been emptied 2 times since tranny was replaced. Most of the time the tank was between 1/4 and 3/4. I kind of remember Fuel monitor is always the first to set. That is why I am baffled.

Ah, it must be this screen (below) that would provide more info.
The incomplete one is MID $01 TID $84.

Does it hint anything? I googled "MID $01 TID $84" and could not find anything specific.



(Looks like Torque pro can do more than what Autel MS906BT can)

Post the output of the following as the car warms ( goes from completely cool to completely hot )

MAP/MAF sensor
Coolant Temp
Intake Air Temp
RPM
Fuel system status ( I.E. Open loop/Closed loop)
Primary O2 sensor voltage ( no calculations, just raw signal )

Those are usually the sensor involved in determining fuel system status, though I don't know if this car uses anything extra.

Hmmm. How do show? I got this video of it starting from cold to warm:

photos.app.goo.gl/HLNey2WEp7MDT7V89

I did not take intake air temp. No room on the tiny screen. I checked afterward, it was at constant 70.

Have you tried driving the car? Maybe the fuel monitor won't set until it tests the fuel system under real life engine load conditions.

Everything that I saw in the video looked pretty normal.
If you want you could trade out the bottom display ( O2 Sensor current for Intake Air Temp ).
We only really need to see the O2 lambda, it looked nearly perfect at 0.999:1 the entire time.

That does raise a question though. Don't car usually run a bit rich until they warm up?
That didn't seem to happen here.

Also I saw that your MAP went as low as 4psi and leveled out at about 6psia.
That is between 8 and 12 inHg of vacuum.
All of the engines that I've seen have a normal range between 17 and 22 inHg vacuum.
For example: my Civic and Accord both idle at 18inHg ( 8.84 psia )

I'll do some more research on it a bit later and I could be wrong... but

1. Maybe something is up with your MAP sensor?
2. Maybe the MAP is fine and air flow is restricted?
3. Maybe its fine and I'm just wrong?

The lambda sure doesn't seem to know about it. I don't see it trying to correct by adding or subtracting fuel.

I will change out the MAP and the AF ratio sensor this weekend.
I have driven the car for over 300 miles. All other monitors were set except the fuel one. I disconnected the battery and shorted out the positive and negative cables few days ago to hope it will clear up some memory. That did not help.
Another thing I was looking at was the ECU TCU reflash. I was told that if the tranny is replaced, a reflash might be needed. Local dealer service adviser told me if the TCU is inside the valve body, a reflash is needed. A local indy shop told me to take it to the dealer to do a reflash first, before dealing with the emission cycle and the tranny jerking. According to the dealer when I called them, that would be $300 even if there is no update / need for the reflash.
Then, I just bought a Autel maxisys pro J2534 box off ebay for cheap. Hopefully I will end up able to do the reflash myself (HyundaiTechInfo.com) for $75 subscription.
Man, fixing cars is not just mechanical anymore. We have to know so much about computers (and lucky that I am in IT field.)

I will update when I have progress.

Anyone has any idea, please feel free.

yeah, you are right about that!

I have a background in Automechanics, Electronics, Programming and General I.T.
When I work on Modern cars I use all of it!

Modern cars are a giant mixture of mechanical moving parts ( physics ) + metallurgy( material science ) + electronics + computers / networking (Programming and I.T. ) + perfect fuel mixtures and pollution controls ( chemistry )

I wouldn't jump to the conclusion that you need to replace your MAP or AF sensor. Throwing parts at the problem is almost always a mistake.
I do it very rarely... and have regretted it almost every time!

You can and should test your AF sensor first.
You can pull a vacuum hose to force the mixture lean.
You can spray some gasoline or carb cleaner in the intake to force the mixture rich.

Do these tests. If the AF sensor responds in the correct way, there is nothing wrong with it.

You can also test your MAP sensor using a either a very accurate low pressure vacuum gauge, or you can do what I usually do and build yourself a $5 slackline manometer. That is a super old school method, but it's cheap, fairly easy to set up and super accurate! You don't have to worry about how many years your gauge has been sitting on the shelf... or how much Chinesium is in it.

Again, I would test them both. Don't just blindly replace them. You'll just end up wasting money and frustrating yourself further.