Help us help you. By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms (no start, high idle, misfire etc.) Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily!
Got around to reinstalling the cylinder heads and torquing the rocker arm bolts. I noticed on the front cylinder two of the springs seem more compressed than others. Could this potentially be due to weak Springs or is there something else that I'm missing.? On rear cylinder head all Springs are compressed equally after torquing. .gonna put the rest on hold for now until i can gwt some peace of mind
No idea what engine man but a few guesses would be weak springs, tight tappers, pumped up lifters or even just that cylinder is 'on the rock' and it's normal. Reallly need more info.
Might can't tell but the left spring is more compressed than the right one. it's only really like that for the front cylinder head. We are cylinder head offsprings look normal. It's one of 3.1 General Motors engine
Might can't tell but the left spring is more compressed than the right one. it's only really like that for the front cylinder head. We are cylinder head offsprings look normal. It's one of 3.1 General Motors engine
Edit: pictures bad. I think ill just reassemble amd see how it goes. Can't really afford to put anymore money into this thing anyway
If the lobe on the camshaft is on the high spot it will be trying to open that valve causing the valve spring to compress. Rotate the engine and watch that valve spring to see if it returns to normal height with the valve closed.
"Silver bullets are for killing Werewolves, not fixing Cars." -Rob Longoria-
Dylan wrote: See what you mean. Looks kinda weird :huh:
Like Rob said, how does it look when you turn the engine over and both valves are closed...
Agree here. Before going back together, I'd suggest hand cranking this thing over a few times, and see if you can get both valves to close fully.
No offense meant here, but you're sure you got the pushrods back in the right places? That'd definitely cause one valve to hang open. You'd also notice this while hand turning the engine, as it'll cause piston contact.
Tyler wrote: No offense meant here, but you're sure you got the pushrods back in the right places? That'd definitely cause one valve to hang open. You'd also notice this while hand turning the engine, as it'll cause piston contact.
Now that you said that I would for sure double check that the push rods are in the correct spot. They have short and long ones. Don't remember which ones go where but if they get put in the wrong spot it can bend the valves.
EDIT: And on a side note, where did my other post go? I cant see it
"Silver bullets are for killing Werewolves, not fixing Cars." -Rob Longoria-
Ro-longo wrote: Now that you said that I would for sure double check that the push rods are in the correct spot. They have short and long ones. Don't remember which ones go where but if they get put in the wrong spot it can bend the valves.
Sure can! Ask me how I know. :pinch:
EDIT: And on a side note, where did my other post go? I cant see it
Yeah, Dylan accidentally deleted it. :blush: We're talking to onyx to see if we can get it restored. Truly sorry about that!
Yeah, Dylan accidentally deleted it. :blush: We're talking to onyx to see if we can get it restored. Truly sorry about that!
I'm sorry Ro-longo :blush: Have a new phone and still not really familiar with it. In stead of hitting the reply button I hit the delete....
Immediately sent a message to onyx. Should be able to put the post back.
The valves are moving when hand cranking. I'm not too sure if the spring is supposed to close all the way? It was definitely closing though. When turning I can hear a noise which sounds like a spring is just snapping back to its default position . Should be normal or no?
That doesn't sound right. Others have made some great suggestions, as they're probably more accustomed to this exact engine.
One thought I'll add is I've seen bent valves make a similar noise. They don't move freely in the guide and pop back into place long after the cam lobe has passed.
One pretty quick check is either a leak down tester or even a home made air fitting tp put into the spark plug hole, and pressurise it and see if the offending valve is blowing out the intake/exhaust.
For what its worth i redid the valve seals. Didnt notice any bent valves. When slowly turned over the snapping is non existent. Only when turning over quickly and with more force as shown in vid
Intake and exhaust rods are properly placed. Rocker arm bolts properly torqued.
Looks pretty normal to me? Nothing looks out of ordinary. The other cylinder head does the exact same thing although i took the part the valve train off that one for demo purpose
Back at it in the morning. Anyone else care to chime in? Just checked my torque specs which according to service manual says 11 foot pounds plus 30 degree angle. Pushrod and rocker arm replacement it states 22 foot pounds but I suppose this does not apply to me since the components are not being replaced.. otherwise I'll just torque to Specs put it all back together and see what happens when I run it. The sound seems to be coming from one of the cam lobes when it releases the lifter
Topic Author
