FIXED Jag x-type 2.0 Diesel 06 Manual, UK. Sudden death!

Enthusiastic amateur here in the UK with an X-type Jaguar Diesel with an odd problem. These are the same 2.0L Duratorq engine as many Ford cars and vans

Icarsoft reader with Jaguar Land Rover software
Pico 2204 + low amp clamp

At a standstill when cold, the engine will rev to 2500rpm and cut out. Stops dead.
Key off, re-start like nothing happened.
After it has warmed up for a short while the cut off point increases to 2750, then 3000, then 3250rpm. Always repeatable.
The error code set is P0340 Camshaft sensor/circuit and and occasionally P0335 Crankshaft sensor as well (but not every time). It is apparently neither of these (see waveforms)
Car starts, idles and runs fine otherwise

The ECU is cutting power to all injectors for 6-8 revs then bringing it back then going haywire firing them at double speed then 4x speed. This cut out and double firing also happens on a normal lift off and normal key shutdown has the same rapid firing - so it may be normal ?

Putting a scope on the fuel rail pressure (blue line) and Injector 1 (vertical red lines - current) you can see what is happening, it is 1.8s from first glitch (gap in injector firing) to dead stop. NB fuel pump is direct engine drive so pressure drops from random injector firing and slowing of pump. The graphs show the engine revving up to the cut out.

This is 2 separate tests :in the same pic


Pico file


Crank sensor seems fine
The cam sensor shows no issues throughout the event either.



This is the file for that pic - engine is slwoing from first shut off of injector.




Can't see it as a wiring fault as it fails at a specific rpm, not fuel as can be seen from the pressure waveform, not injectors (inj 2 and 4 all behave the same way). It has to be something related to engine speed that is modified with temperature that is causing the ECU to have a fit. Can't see that it is an ECU failure due to the change with temperature.

Scoped the AC ripple and that seems fine, ran with the electronic turbo actuator disconnected (no difference), no anomalies, nothing stands out on live data and as I say the car starts, runs and drives ok unless you hit the cut out point!

Ideas welcome please as I am out of them!

The double firing suggests engine computer has lost synch and can't tell if it is at the end of the compression or exhaust stroke BUT both cam and crank signals look fine ! ?
I am thinking the both sensor signals are okay when the leave the the sensors but wondering if something is is getting lost before it reaches the engine computers CPU, possible engine computer fault ??????????????

You don't say where you have connected to the cam and crank sensor signals but looking at but back pinning the cam-crank sensor signsls at the engine computer plug might reveal something.

The other is a left field idea you could try is applying pre-heat on to the engine computer using a haird dryer to see if it changes the behaviour of the problem

This a a common engine type someone will so surely encountered this issue before?

Thanks Andy. I did scope CMP/CKP at the ECU plug - well almost, the actual ECU is buried and the connector not back-probable but 6" away is the main connector so probed there. - Actually more difficult than direct to sensors.

The engine temperature related rise seems too quick to affect the ECU, it is well away from any heat and with the hood open I doubt there is a few degrees difference (plus it is 7c/45F here). Could be internal ECU temp, but how is that related to engine speed - also you would think that it would get worse not better!

I have since discovered the multiple firing after lift off /shut down is normal, the injectors are short pulsed to discharge rail pressure into the return circuit either to reguate rail pressure during running or to avoid pump pressure on re-start

This mean that the question is now simply why does the ecu shut down the engine at a specific rpm that varies with temperature. I did wonder if it was load related (hence looking at the VGT actuator) ie warmer engine less load until higher rpm.

I have seen a few posts on it but as usual no resolution. I searched duratorq on here with no results. What cars is it in in the US, here it is the Ford Mondeo Mk3 and the Ford Transit van. Engine code is FMBA

Just a question here - does it rev itself to 2500 or is it when you rev to 2500?
It does sound a lot like cam/crank timing. Possibly magnetic interference on the cam signal. I'd do a high frequency scope pattern of the
cam sensor and see if it has any extra lines in it.
I recently had a Ford that had a half/failed cam sensor related to heat. It would run on two cylinders for a while before dying.

FIXED

Someone on the UK Jag forum suggested that the Mondeo's (same engine) had the issue if the Crank Sensor was not in as far as possible against a tooth when installed - literally 1mm of difference. Re-istalled it and problem gone.
Going to scope it again and see if there is a visible difference on the waveform because it looks perfect to me.
Thanks for your thoughts and input on this one.

So I missed the obvious (well it is in hindsight!), see the 2nd pic down showing the lovely crank waveform, note the rulers showing 7.9v amplitude at 3250rpm. It should be 15-20v at idle and my scan today showed over 100v at 3250rpm when the scan in the pic was made.
Too easy to get hooked on those lovely curves and miss the numbers...

I know this post is a little old now and hope you can remember.
Hi I have pretty much the same car as you and pretty much the same problem you had. I was worried about pushing the sensor in too far and the lug on the fly wheel hitting it and damaging it. The workshop manual says this is an issue and that you should look through the sensor aperture, turn the engine by hand until the lug appears and then push the sensor down until it touches it and then tighten the bolt.
Is this what you did as I am finding it pretty much imposible to see down the hole with the sensor removed to see the lug.
Any help you could give would be gratefully recieved.