Window motor wire up

need some help guys . I want to wire up some switches to my windows on my newly acquired 2009 Shelby GT500 race spec car . The windows, motors and regulators installed are the original parts from the car. The car was essentially gutted for weight reduction. But I have all of the original parts and the wire harness, I have the wiring diagram as well but my electrical skills are novice at best . I have the window motor harness spliced and ready, and a couple 20amp fuse wires. However, There are about 8 wires coming from the window motor harness, so my question and where I need assistance at. Is what wires am I going to use for my after market switches? What wires do I bridge together to make the circuit possible ? etc .Below I have listed out the color and specificities of the wires coming out of the driver side window motor based on the diagram for my vehicle . Please assist me.

Wire 1: Auto/ VT-LG

Wire 2: DACC/RD-LB

Wire 3: UP/ WH-BK

Wire 4: Down/ YE

Wire 5: Short Drop/ LG-BK

Wire 6: GOC/ LB

Wire 7: B+/VT-YE

Wire 8: GND/BK

I'm happy to assist how I can. :silly: I'm not sure what aftermarket switches you have, or what kind of harness you have at work. You'll have to take this info and use it however works best in your application.

As you probably noticed, the power window motors are integral with solid state controllers. In the OE configuration, you can't control the window motors directly. The module attached to them will take inputs and do what it wants with the motors. :lol: Understanding switch inputs will be key.

The UP wire is a pull up switch input to the window motor. When the motor sees 12-ish volts on that wire, it rolls the window up. Note that there's no current flow taking place here - the 12V signal isn't actually moving the motor. It's just there to let the motor know that the driver requested that the window be rolled up.

DOWN is the opposite. It'll have some kind of voltage on it, and the motor is waiting for that voltage to get pulled to ground by the window switch.

AUTO is also a pull down input, same as DOWN. But because of how the window switch is wired, it works together with UP and DOWN to signal the auto up/down feature. For example, when you hit auto up, the switch simultaneously pulls the UP wire high (12V) and the AUTO wire low (ground). That combination of signals tells the window motor to roll the window all the way up.

B+ is self explanatory. It comes from a 30A fuse, and the wire itself needs to be heavy gauge to carry window motor current.

DACC is a power input from the accessory delay relay. It's there so you can roll the windows up/down for a little while after you pulled the key out of the ignition. The relay itself is controlled by the Smart Junction Box. I dunno if your Mustang will even have an SJB at this point. :lol: Maybe wire that one to key on power if you don't.

GOC is a hot at all times power input.

GND is also self explanatory.

SHORT DROP is part of the backlighting circuit. That's likely to be another 12V source when the headlights are on. Maybe get the windows working first?

what parts do you have exactly???

do you have the oem window swithes??

wiring harness??

door panels??

please be specific