[FIXED] 2003 Honda Accord 2.4L P2422 EVAP system vent vlav

My mechanic friend had this code and without testing wiring integrity, replaced the vent vlv solenoid and of course being a hard fault, CEL again. I intially made a visual inspection of the canister area and it seems relatively clean, including wiring connector(s). Checked circuit design to be sure and it is a ground side switch; KOEO, figured which was feed (blk/red) and control (light/red); both should batt voltage though kinda low around 11.24V. Energized solenoid with TL (-) touching control and I hear solenoid clicking. Now my question is : when I unplugged the connector and with my TL (+), probing the control wire, with both KOEO and KOER, the TL stay lit with no flicker. Is it suppose to stay this way or will flicker once the purge solenoid kicks in? Or is there a need to increase RPM to see it flicker? Or any other condition for it to flicker? I would like to move to further test for open or short.

Thanks...Robert.

Checked control wire unplugged and it showed 0.34 V; feed showed 11.24V despite battery charged...it looks like a short/ground in control wire. I wl check from the PCM side. I would appreciate an opinion from you guys. Thanks.

Hey Robert!

Did some research on this one, the P2422 code is defined as EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve Stuck Closed. A short to ground on the control wire would certainly explain that!

Your test light to B+ on the control wire absolutely supports this, but my concern is how the VSV was clicking when you applied your test light to B-. If the valve was already closed due to the short, then your test light shouldn't have made a difference. Does the valve click when you unplug and reconnect the VSV, KOEO or KOER? If it doesn't, then that'd make me believe that the control wire isn't actually shorted to ground, and that the test light is illuminating for another reason.

For general information, I looked in the Snap-On Troubleshooter, and it had this to say about P2422:

Troubleshooter wrote: Techs in the field report that an EVAP system vent blockage is likely the cause.

Most common cause of blockage is a spiders nest in the fitting that connects the hose to the vehicle frame.

Another common cause is a blocked EVAP canister.

I'm not saying you're wrong to follow the electrical path, just throwing this out there. Take all experienced-based information like this with a grain of salt.

I also checked to see if there's some kind of output state monitor on the VSV circuit, and there is. P0498 EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve Circuit Low Voltage sets when the PCM detects low voltage on the light green/red wire. If you're not getting this code KOEO or KOER, then I'd suspect that the test light behavior you're seeing is not the problem.

Hi Tyler...thanks for your reply.

By far I have not heard from my mechanic friend as to whether the CEL came on again. I advise him to check blockages on tubing per your research...I guess now news from him is good news. I will keep you posted on the result if his inspction if indeed there was some form of blockage in the canister or hoses.

No problem, sir! I've never run into this code, personally, so I definitely learned something from this.

What you are describing is a purge valve test, not a vent valve. The vent valve is not pulse width modulated and lives under the car on most applications, not under the hood. Sounds like you may have changed the wrong valve

Those are normal unplugged, ground side switched circuit voltage readings.

Sorry for the late reply. My mechanic friend confirmed that it was the vent valve (located underneath the car close to the left rear wheel) that he changed...

When I did circuit and wiring integrity on the same, I was thinking the TL might be pulsing. Now that you mentioned it's not, then test done shows normal. BUT one striking difference I noticed is everytime I would ground the control wire, corresponding click from the solenoid was not there...like it was sticking and then would click again.

robert.lesaca wrote: Sorry for the late reply. My mechanic friend confirmed that it was the vent valve (located underneath the car close to the left rear wheel) that he changed...

No worries, good to know! I take it the light is still out?

When I did circuit and wiring integrity on the same, I was thinking the TL might be pulsing. Now that you mentioned it's not, then test done shows normal. BUT one striking difference I noticed is everytime I would ground the control wire, corresponding click from the solenoid was not there...like it was sticking and then would click again.

Perhaps the old vent valve was sticking intermittently? That'd certainly account for a stuck closed trouble code.

Hi Paul / and the rest of the guys who have helped out ...just got a call from my mechanic friend; lights came on again showing same problem. I suggested to him to bring he car to my place and I will dismantle the canister assembly and inspect for blockage or anything of that sort; I will check vent solenoid again. I thought I'd let you know . I will keep you posted.

Rob

robert.lesaca wrote: Hi Paul / and the rest of the guys who have helped out ...just got a call from my mechanic friend; lights came on again showing same problem. I suggested to him to bring he car to my place and I will dismantle the canister assembly and inspect for blockage or anything of that sort; I will check vent solenoid again. I thought I'd let you know . I will keep you posted.

Rob

Thanks for keeping us updated!

I can suggest some other tests you can do when you get a hold of the vehicle. My first thought is to close the vent valve, and open the purge valve with the engine running. This'll put a strong vacuum on the tank, which you can then seal off by closing the purge. The vacuum will decay slowly if everything is sealed.

Then, open the vent, and watch the fuel tank pressure sensor for how quickly the vacuum releases. It SHOULD be instantaneous, but won't be if the canister is plugged.

Thank you Paul for the tip...appreciate everything you can throw to broaden my knowledge. For sure I will try per your instruction. Weather here Toronto (Canada) has been erratic - the other was snowstorm and now its +6 degrees and then dips for the next couple of days ...what I'm trying to say is it might take a couple of days before I can work on this car. Its kinda GRRRRRRRR out of frustration on this car and BRRRR at the same time. I will keep you posted as soon as I can.

I have ran into this issue on a few occasions at the dealer. Most of the time the problem is a spider's nest in the fitting/hose between the CVS valve and the vehicle frame. Take the fitting/hose off completely and inspect it for obstructions. Good luck

robert.lesaca wrote: p.s. regarding the honda with EVAP vent problem, the canister had some blockages. Working well now !