Crank/No Start after new Timing Cover - P0339 CKP - 97 Chevy K1500 5.7L

I've been having an oil leak from around the crank seal timing cover that had gotten worse, so I installed a new timing cover (Holley aluminum because I don't trust the plastic ones). Got everything buttoned back up and filled, and got a crank but no start, with a P0339 code thrown, and no RPMs on either the tach or scanner. I checked the wires, which didn't show too much resistance and showed continuity, even across a section of yellow feed wire that looked suspicious when I exposed the harness. I pulled the CKP and saw a little bit of a dent and a scratch, but I'm not sure if that definitely means it's bad. I'll attach picture below, hopefully the quality is good enough. I guess I'm just looking for confirmation before I get a new sensor, or if there's something I'm overlooking. Thanks!

circuit low/intermittent

more than likely an air-gap issue, maybe caused by the new cover. does the sensor bolt up on the cover? I'm not familiar with its mounting

It bolts up to the cover at around the 7 o'clock position with an 8mm through the hole above my finger. It's a 3 pin hall effect. The connector wiggles a little bit on the mounting bracket, I don't know if it's supposed to do that. I understand there are spacers for them to make the gap bigger, but there weren't any on it when I took it out.

Hi guys,

Have you tried with a volt meter and screw driver to trigger the output of the sensor?

Also keep in mind that a continuity test doesn't tell you much of the wire integrity. It only tells you that one strand is in tact, when that actually may not be enough to carry the current needed to operate properly.

Do you have access to a scan tool that will show you a crank signal? Paul has some good videos on input testing where he does it with a hall effect sensor.

The marks you found on the crank sensor are pretty common with these engines. There's a GM TSB that covers shimming the sensor to get the right air gap. Don't sweat that the the TSB talks about the 4.3 - it applies to the 5.7's, too.



There are lots of ways to shim the crank, but having the OE shims on hand if needed would make the job go much smoother.

It ended up being the sensor after all. Popped a new one in and it fired right up. I must have banged up the old one when I was fighting to get the bottom of the timing cover to clear the oil pan, before common sense finally hit me and I took it back out. I'll keep an eye on it in case I need a shim, but it looked a little shorter than the old sensor, so it might be ok. Thanks again everyone.