2006 chevy suburban 5.3 ltz

(Fixed) read the solution. Down on the messages. Thank you
Hello guys. I have a problem with this suburban . I did the diagnostic and was the 5 volt circuit. Not workig right so i take the ecm to get repair. After a day they call me and say the processor was bad. Cont be fixed . So I bought another ecm from the junk yard with mach number . I pay 43$ at the acdelcotds. For programing. I did everything. I completed the programing. I cleared the codes.
Then i did the relearn key .
But the truck. Crank but no start
I read for codes and pop 7 codes..

P0107 is a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) for "Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) Barometric Pressure Sensor Circuit

P0118. Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input

P0122Throttle Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input

P0223Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit High

P0315 OBD-II Trouble Code: Crankshaft Position System Variation Not Learned

P0443Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Malfunction

P0633 Immobilizer Key Not Programmed – ECM/PCM


I can hear the fuel pump whe kick on
My concern is. With old ecm. I dont have all those codes. And the truck runs. And driving not really good but it run.
Can enyone give me a idea where to start. Thank you

What are the calibrations on the new used pcm vs the old pcm? Just asking if it put the same numbers in as the old one had.

If it’s not to much trouble can you post code description of the codes in next post? Then we can focus on 1 code and find the cause of it which will most likely solve all of them

Well i use the vin # from this truck.

Already update the post.

Check the number on the back of the ecms And i use. The vin #. From the sticker at the door

Thanks for code description gerber

I’d be half tempted to put old pcm back in and supply the 5 volt reference to the sensors and see if you get any codes and if it runs okay. Then that’s eliminate any other issues with the truck. Then I’d say the used pcm you got is junk. That’s what’d I do if I were working on it

Either use potentiometer to step the voltage down to 5 volts or use the adapter power probe makes. If you haven’t seen it google it. It’s cheap and works good

But its ground control. And the computer keeps. Sending ground all the times soons i turn the swich on ... shold be off And then turns on. After start driving. Or. When the engine is hot . And all ways stay close soon i open the switch

I think I’m confused. You said original computer had no 5 volts coming out of it?? If that’s the case put old pcm in and cut wire near pcm that’s supposed to have 5 volts on it and put 5 volts to that wire either with potentiometer to step down battery voltage. Or power probe adapter. Then the 5 volt ref will be there see if it runs smooth and correctly. If it does new pcm you got from junkyard is junk. If you could post wiring diagram of 5 volt ref circuit and we can work through this. If your seeing ground like you said maybe the wire is rubbed through somewhere? Or you have a bad sensor.

Put the 5 volts on the side that’s going to the sensors not pcm side. Believe scanner scanner has videos doing this

The code that i have on the old one. Was p0449. M. Vent solenoid circuit
When we open the swich. The solenoid get 12v. And the ground side is activate by the ecm. Not all the times But the ecm keeps activate the ground side all the times.
And
But thats not the way the vent should work

Well guy i just want to thank you for all the help. The solution was.
I find another ecm at the junk with the same. Number. So what i did was just plug it. And do the key relearn
11min. Swich on
30 sec. swich. Off
11.........
30...........
11........
30........
30 sec. switch on.
And start right away. The. Did the crank relearn.
And its running like a champ
No programing need this time
No vin mismatch codes. At the ecm.
And bcm. No codes

GOD. BLESS SCANNERDANNER