94 E150 with misfire at idle and high load
Ignition is TFI-IV Push Start (NOT computer controlled dwell)
Symptoms are:
-Misfires and surges at idle,
-no noticeable symptoms while driving at low load (i.e. high rpms, relatively closed throttle, not up a steep hill)
-misfires increase in frequency and intensity as load increases (due to incline AS WELL AS when throttle opening increases)
-barely visible (even in total darkness) blue flashes in and around where spark plugs thread in to block (there is no visible arcing through the wires or boots, which are new). This occurred on all plugs I could get my head in to look for them on.
-No codes
Whole secondary ignition system is new (yes I have been parts swappin pretty hard). This includes the only coil in the system, coil wire, distributor cap and rotor, plug wires and plugs.
Attached photos show secondary ignition waveform on one cylinder, it is typical of all the cylinders I tried. (I have flipped the images for your convenience as on my scope they were upside down). Photo 1 shows what I would consider a normal reading, photo two shows the other reading I was getting. In practice the scope was showing a rapid flashing back and forth between these two wave forms.
(I have uploaded a video although it is sideways and appears to be quite green? but just imagine rapid flashing between the two images...)
Thanks!!
Kiernan
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- randall.sick
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Try pulling it and inspecting to see if you have the same issue? Just my .02.
My rides, 1998 Chevy Tahoe 5.7l
1999 Chevy S10 2.2l
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I wanted to know first the cause of misfire (spark or fuel). I used a gas analyzer, which drove me to a bad O2 sensor. No O2 codes related.
Check for O2 sensor activity. Mine was steady at 0.5 volts
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Guafa: I have previously checked the O2 sensor output, and it shows rapid oscillations that vary across what I recall was a normal voltage range. Also, unplugging the sensor didn't change the symptoms (and I would expect that unplugging it would force it in to open loop and set all fuel trim settings to default, which would correct any misfires due to faulty O2 sensor output). HOWEVER unplugging the O2 sensor ALSO did not throw a code. Could this indicate that the computer is receiving some other signal (maybe zero volts due to short to ground) and interpreting it as O2 sensor output? Will check O2 sensor pin at PCM later today.
Thanks!
Kiernan
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- John Curtis
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If you cant read live data take a look at your MAF and see if it's dirty, same with the throttle body.
Clear flood crank? Does it sound consistent or does it sound like a cylinder is dropping out?
what is fuel pressure telling you?
Injector power balance test?
What engine is it?
sorry for all the questions. Itll help us help you.
Making Pressure Differential Sensors (PDA Sensors) for pressure pulse diagnostics.
Currently servicing Central Texas.
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Guafa: If the MAP sensor turns out to be good, I will investigate O2 response to WOT, although I can only do this at idle because I do not have obd2, so I can only watch through my scope.
Thanks!!
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MAP output is a beautiful square wave with a 5V peak to peak voltage and a frequency of between 160Hz at zero vacuum and 92Hz at ~24inHg (and smooth transition between them).
O2 sensor output seems to to fluctuate between around .3-.5V up to 1.0-1.3V every second or so, and seems to be the same at idle and with some throttle opening. BUT at idle, every time it misses/stumbles, O2 output seems to drop down to the low end. Could indicate a lean misfire?
IN OTHER NEWS I checked the base timing (with SPOUT shorting bar disconnected) and advanced timing (at idle) but was unsure of how to interpret the indicator. The drawing shows the pointer/indicator, which is fastened in two places to the timing chain cover (this is the complex shaped piece with the swoops and small punched hole), the harmonic dampener (the long rectangle) and the arrows show where the cylinder 1 TDC marker appeared with BASE TIMING (No spout) and advanced timing (With Spout at idle). Can any of you tell me how to read this timing pointer?
Thanks!
Kiernan
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Thanks again
Kiernan
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O2 sensor output seems to to fluctuate between around .3-.5V up to 1.0-1.3V every second or so, and seems to be the same at idle and with some throttle opening.. At idle o2 signal should fluctuate from 0.2 to 0.9 volts
Did you already check O2 signal at pcm pin?
I will investigate O2 response to WOT, although I can only do this at idle because I do not have obd2, so I can only watch through my scope.
you can connect a long wire from O2 sensor signal to your scope and watch while you are climbing.
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Thanks
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In order to have enough time to see O2 signal, if it is a manual transmission, start the car in second gear. If it is an automatic transmission, keep throttle on the floor all the time (keep and eye on the road always).
If O2 sensor signal drops below 0.45 volts, that means is getting lean and you have fuel delivery issues
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