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Ok this is my first post here, but I think it is understandable why I am here when I explain my troubles.
Truck: 2010 Nissan Titan SE 4wd 84k
This winter I got in my truck and all the dash indicator lights came on:
VDC, ABS, SLIP, 4WD, Brake, Engine, Tires
Brought to a mechanic for diag, they could not find the issues, brought to a second mechanic and same they could not diag.
Codes are a PO500, P1212, P1721 and V1001
Here is the real issue. When I was out tinkering with the truck I found mouse dropping and footprints running all over the engine, I set two traps and got two big mice. The upon more inspection I found some mice damage under the intake.
I brought it back to the mechanic and told them about the damage and wanted to charge 500 for that fix. So I decide to do it myself. I repaired this before seeing any videos here so maybe I need to text the current there to make sure I did the right job. When I pulled the intake there was a huge mouse house. I did not see any other damage under the intake and assumed I repaired it well.
Well a week ago all warning lights shut off and the truck went back to normal for 5 days. But now all the warning lights are back.
Today I decided to check the fuses with a test light, it was the first time I had used one and I found one full bank of fuses getting no power, with the key on, or engine running at least 7 out of 10 fuses show zero power, when I few fuses in the same bank show good power.
Now the car will just about shut off when driving and the battery light will flicker. So this I assume is the alternator? so maybe that is effecting the VSS?
So, damage under the fuse box?
*I am not helpless working on cars but I have done my best to avoid anything on the electrical side until now
So why no power to a bank of fuses?
and also found one fuse 'bay' empty with just one live connector the other connector is missing, could this be the issue?
A good place to start here would be to know what circuits those fuses are powering. It would also be good to know out of those 4 original codes before you did the fix, which codes came back, or did all of the same codes come back? All of those codes look to be dealing with ABS communication. I'd double check your repair first and look for any new signs of rodent damage.
The battery light may just be coming on due to low RPMs, wouldn't start chasing that until there's a reason to.
check the voltage of the battery be nice to see about 12.4v +, and see if it goes up to approx 14v running, the power issues all start at the battery, I would reset the PCM codes.. personally, to see what codes come back. One of your codes in no communication with the ABS module, but I've seen where it did work it was just electrical issues at the time must shut stuff down sometimes, and another code is a wheel speed sensor, but I would make sure battery is over 12v, and check volts running first, then rest codes and see what comes back.
"Knowledge is a weapon. Arm yourself, well, before going to do battle."
"Understanding a question is half an answer." I have learned more by being wrong, than I have by being right.
Oh great thank you all so much, I am going to take some pics and video for help.
1 all codes were the same when I first had this checked months ago, they just all come back.
2 had the battery checked today and it was at 12.8 not running, however, the guys at Advanced auto told me my factory battery connectors were worn and need to be replaced, that even tightened they were still loose. Also said he didn't trust his tester for the alternator but now that I am home I can test it while running.
3 Chad thank you for that diagram I did not have it
Maybe now with the wiring diagrams that Chad posted you could take a picture of the fuse block and show us which fuses don't have power and we could see what is common to them.
Ok, I am back from my first exploration of the truck.
First off the Power Probe is worth its weight in gold.
The battery was at 14.3 while running and all fuses read that too when running and 12.8 when the key was just on the on position.
1. The area I worked on and the area where there was the mouse damage read 0.8 at the connector on both sides. There are two power leads, wires? that both read 0.8 and the N was 0.0. This is two brown wires that have a negative wrap and a plastic-coated hot wire in the middle. Both were damaged accept I did not fix one that only had chew marks on the casing. These wires run under the air intake and connect to sensors on either side of the heads. What are these?
2. All speed sensors read 9.7 w/ key on and 9.9 when running on both sides the negative never read 0.0, it read 9.4 on all-wheel speed sensors.
Found one fuse blew in that bank and all others read ground 0.0, others were powered up to 12+.
One issue was still found the 10amp fuse bay with just one connector. I have a picture and will upload it.
Check fusible link I, in the engine compartment, 30A or 40A. And fuse 50 somewhere in the engine compartment, both are for ABS according to the wiring Diagram that Chad uploaded
I did and everything is good, 12v from the fusible link, good ABS fuse is fuse box and 12v from the wire harness to the ABS modulator. When everything comes online all sensors work great, then things go back to where we are now. So I am assuming no the ABS mod is bad.
So update, the power to all-wheel speed sensors is low according to Nissan, I am at 10.9v and Nissan say I need to be at battery voltage, or 12.8. All sensors read 10.9v so I am getting resistance in the harness somewhere they said, and even though I added a new to me ABS Modulator I will need to have it reprogrammed by Nissan.
