!996 Nissa Pathfind, dies when put into gear

(Old problem the wasn't much of a issue)
Occasionally would died backing up on a slight grade. (since I've owned the car)


(New problem that causing major issue)

**I was driving my car, about 8 miles this day, it had a small hiccup issue, like low on gas, but didn't die,
Stopped and got gas, and drove to about 30 miles. No issue.

**Went to a auto store and the drive way is on a slight grade and for the first time in forward motion car died on
the slight hill coming out of the auto , But restarted no problem.

**Drove back another 30 miles coming up the steep hill
the car died, like it just shut off.

**Got it home (towed) , and there was no fire/spark.

**Thought the coil was out but can't just buy a coil, we replaced it with a brand new distributor.

**Car Starts Now

**went to time it with the required unhooking of the TPS.

**Removed top connector of the TPS and NO change, Removed bottom brown connector and the car dies.

**Spec requires TPS to be disconnected when timed.

**Replaced TPS even though it had the proper readings of 5 Volts.

**There is a 12 Volt wire bypass, yellow wire, from ignition switch to the distributor by previous owner, because of dead witer (short) in original wire, NOT a Issue (been driving with this wire for couple years)

**we think the yellow bypass wire was shorted to the intake. So redid wire.

**We had a knock sensor code since we had the car. We relocated the knock sensor and driven the car for a year and a half with NO issue.

**But replaced the knock sensor 2x in the last week because of the code is still there.

**we tested the knock sensor and we have 5 volts to it and 2.5 out of it, so we don't believe the knock sensor is the issue.

**So currently car Starts and Runs and Idles GOOD and Revs Good

**But will died when put into reverse or Drive once it warms up, and sometime when cold but worse when it is warmed up.

**when placed into any drive gear the idle drops under 500 RPMS,
when it is cold and put into gear it stays above 500 RPMS

**IF you can get it into gear you can drive the hell out of it but it will die if you let up off the idle if it is in a gear.

**O2 sensors code but they been replaced in the last year, the codes are still saying both downstream sensors.

**So the scanner we have still shows three codes, the knock sensor and the two down stream O2 sensors.




and another thing, I had a remote start put in the car, the security never worked right, when I tried to lock the the car with the fob the horn would go off, but now neither one of the fobs will start the car, so I was wondering if it could be possible that the remote start could be causing the problem I explained up above?

Get it to the moment before stalling, engine hot, but instead of putting it into gear, turn on all of your accessories, headlights, ac, and turn the steering wheel left or right fully. Does the engine still die?

Check on your engine mounts and observe engine when you're putting it into gear. Excessive engine movement indicates bad engine mount. This will exacerbate a torn air intake hose, making it bigger and causing the engine to stall.

Instructions state to turn ignition off before disconnecting TPS. See pdf attachment.



Do you have an engine noise that could be misconstrued as engine knock by the knock sensor? What is the knock sensor code?

Were you able to figure this out?

Having a Z31, I'm pretty savvy with SOHC VG motors (96 pathy should have a VG33)

I'm not sure if they changed a lot when they went to OBD2 with these motors, but problems that exist based on cold/hot conditions usually start with the Cylinder Head Temp Sensor. On these motors, they cause varying symptoms.