Help us help you. By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms (no start, high idle, misfire etc.) Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily!

2010 JEEP PATRIOT CODE: C2116 ABS PUMP MOTOR SUPPLY LOW VOLTAGE

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4 years 10 months ago #30589 by Mechanic 350
Friend of mine came to me for help with this issue. I tried getting a wiring diagram for this vehicle on bbbind.com, and it didn't yield no results. can anyone help me get a wiring diagram for this vehicle before i start disconnecting module connectors?

Also, i erased the abs codes and informed my friend to let me know when the code reappears. thanks fellow techs.

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4 years 10 months ago #30594 by jreardon
The following user(s) said Thank You: Mechanic 350

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4 years 10 months ago #30606 by Mechanic 350
The wiring diagram is not that clear. Is it possible that you can give me one that’s clearer?
Thanks JReardon

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4 years 10 months ago #30607 by jreardon

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4 years 10 months ago #30626 by Mechanic 350
Sorry I don’t know what that means

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4 years 10 months ago #30628 by jreardon
PM = Private Messages.

Sorry, I should stop using that function as it doesn't seem to alert users to new messages.

www31.zippyshare.com/v/LyusfBYi/file.html

www31.zippyshare.com/v/qwO5Og0P/file.html

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4 years 10 months ago #30641 by Mechanic 350
Thank you so much that was a better copy thanks again.

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4 years 10 months ago #30644 by Mechanic 350
hey jreardon, for the life of me, I can't download the file you sent me on zippy share. I cannot extract the file and download it. Can you help? This is killing me.

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4 years 10 months ago #30645 by Mechanic 350
sorry, buddy I figured it out. thanks again.

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4 years 10 months ago #30677 by Tyler
Thanks for the flow chart, jreardon. B)

FWIW, I've been here on this platform and other Chrysler products - always ended with an ABS module. :lol: I've been burned by replacing just the electronic portion, and not the hydraulics (with the motor in it). If the main power and ground can illuminate a headlight, then you're done.

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4 years 10 months ago #30679 by Mechanic 350
Yes Tyler this flow chart is only directing me to check power and grounds. If that’s good, replace the module. And the test is only with a test light. If you have any other direction I open to it.

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4 years 10 months ago #30680 by Mechanic 350
So you’re saying that I should replace the pump motor together with the module? I heard that’s a nightmare to bleed those system.

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4 years 10 months ago #30689 by Tyler

MOROSO321 wrote: So you’re saying that I should replace the pump motor together with the module?


Absolutely. IMO, this trouble code cannot distinguish between a module problem or a motor problem. The motor isn't available separately, and is part of what CDJ calls the Hydraulic Control Unit.

Have a look at Step #7 in the flow chart for this code, which is where you end up if module power and ground are good. Replace the ABS Module. Did that fix it? No? Replace the Hydraulic Control Unit. That's not a fun conversation to have with your boss/customer. :angry:

Good news is that bleeding is actually the easy part. :lol: It's the setup procedure that can be tricky. Be patient and follow every step carefully. Might take a few attempts. ;)

And the test is only with a test light. If you have any other direction I open to it.


Yeah I don't care for that, either. :silly: I'd hit both with a headlamp just to be sure.

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4 years 10 months ago #30694 by Mechanic 350
So with the headlight example you’re giving me, just take 2 jumper wires, and hook them up power and ground. If that lights up the headlight I’m done, replace the entire unit?

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4 years 10 months ago #30717 by Mechanic 350
Tyler what do you mean about the setup procedure? What does that entail? I thought this was a straight up replacement after testing.

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4 years 10 months ago #30718 by Mechanic 350
By the way, I don’t own a bi-directional scanner.

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4 years 10 months ago #30725 by jreardon

MOROSO321 wrote: So with the headlight example you’re giving me, just take 2 jumper wires, and hook them up power and ground. If that lights up the headlight I’m done, replace the entire unit?


It should glow as bright as if it were hooked straight to battery. Those two Fused B(+) terminals have 40A and 30A fuses so that module and or motor together uses quite a bit of juice when they come alive.

Seems like step 5. in bleeding procedure requires bidirectional scanner to energize the solenoids inside the HCU to open and fill up all the passages.

File Attachment:

File Name: absbleeding.pdf
File Size:65 KB


Attachments:

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4 years 10 months ago #30731 by Tyler

MOROSO321 wrote: Tyler what do you mean about the setup procedure? What does that entail? I thought this was a straight up replacement after testing.


There's an initial setup procedure needed with a new module, mostly to relearn the steering angle sensor, brake pressure sensor (if it has one) and the yaw rate sensor (if it has one). There's no 'manual' way to do it that I'm aware of. Someone with access to service info might know better.

Without a scanner, it's likely that you'll have the ABS light on after module replacement, but with no codes stored. The light will remain on until the setup procedure is completed.

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