2005 Chrysler Town and Country 3.3 L

Hello, I am working on my 2005 Town and Country 3.3L with EGR code P0404, engine light on.
I was reading 4.54 or on the signal wire(1) of the EGR valve with engine running and harness plugged in just as it was reading around that number beforehand with the harness unplugged and ignition off. I went ahead and used a little wire and jumped that signal wire (1) to its ground (3).
I don't know what you mean by noticing a code change. Well, I had turned the ignition switch on and off three times and read the code as P040.4, nonetheless, it was the same code afterward. Should I open the valve manually next by a test light or I have other problems that need to be fixed first?
I also don't know why it looks like P040.4 instead of P0404?
I should mention that (2) reads 4.9V and I have taken the EGR valve out and the valve is closed and also not stuck, it goes down and up nicely when I push it the handle of a screwdriver.
I just wanted to mention that the van runs fine so I don't know what is up?
Thanks in advance for any advice.

EventAlchemy wrote: I went ahead and used a little wire and jumped that signal wire (1) to its ground (3).
I don't know what you mean by noticing a code change.

By shorting the signal wire to ground, that should set a P0405 EGR position sensor low. If you jump the signal to the 5V supply on that same connector you'd expect a P0406 EGR sensor high code. It's a quick way to test signal wire integrity.

I mean there was no change in the code. The same code before and the same code after I used the jumper wire.
Now I have the EGR valve out and is sitting on my kitchen table. I decided to do a bench test. I connected a tester light from the positive terminal of the battery to the solenoid terminal (6) of the EGR valve and hooked up the ground (4) to the negative side of the battery. I noticed slight click movement of the valve but nothing to write home about. Maybe it was moving 1/10 of an inch. I repeated it like 5 times, same little clicks.. That is the final story.

The test light won't carry enough current to open that valve wide open. You'd need to use a jumper wire or a bigger bulb to open the valve more.

I was reading 4.54 or on the signal wire(1) of the EGR valve with engine running and harness plugged in just as it was reading around that number beforehand with the harness unplugged and ignition off.

From memory, this is out of range, and at least part of the problem. This signal should be closer to 4.0V with the valve closed. Here's a couple known good captures to compare to.

www.scanshare.io/share/MBfD4D4Lg02v910poyTTgA#15,16,17,18,19

The easiest test of these potentiometers is to plug the valve into the harness and observe the signal voltage while flexing the connector. If it changes more than a tenth of a volt, you're very likely seeing a problem inside the valve itself.